~Rod building~Can I Grind down the eyelet's foot?

[NorDoor]

Fellas would it be ok to do this to create a more seamless tansistion from the blank to the eyelet foot? Does anyone do this on a regular basis?Thanks in advance.

[WCCT]

Yes, most guides available need to be ground down a hair to get a good taper so your thread will climb the guide foot properly when wrapping.  

[JayW]

Of course. You're supposed to! What kind are you using? Some brands pre-grind them, but you usually still need to touch them up. Fuji doesn't do any pre-grinding on theirs. I use a dremel and a grinding wheel sweeping left to right quickly and then go over them with some fine grit sandpaper (500 grit).

[.RM.]

Yup! but make sure it is in small steps. You can always take more off, but cut them to shallow you can't put it back, and you will weaken the guides frame....

Good Luck With Your Build...

[flechero]

Yes, I always reshape the feet.  Among other things, it helps the thread climb up more evenly.  I use a small needle files on the ramp and chainsaw files on the bottom to shape for the blank.  It only takes about 30-60 seconds per guide foot, once you get the hang of it.  The only caution I have is that if you file or grind it "too perfect" you'll have a very sharp edge which could cause a blank failure later.  (400-600 grip paper can be used to round back out the sharp edge)

And on black guides, I always re-color them for consistency.

[NorDoor]

Thanks fellas.

I dove in head first yesterday and ordered a bunch of stuff for my first build.I ordered Fugi concept guides, the BYAG model.They are black.

I've been reading all I can via the net before I made up my mind on what to get.I'm color blind so I had my wife giving me a hand on thread colors to try and match the blank.I see colors just not the correct shades.It's more like color stupid.I found a rod review that showed close up photo's of the blank  for color reference. I'm looking to build something vanilla but classy at the same time if that's possible 8-)

I also ordered a video by Doc Ski and a Book by Tom Kirkman so I have some media resources and hopefully won't have a bunch of dopey questions for you guys.

Thanks again.

Scott.

[.RM.]

Welcome to your new addiction

Good Luck and Keep Us Posted.....

[NorDoor]

I will for sure.

[JayW]

Good luck and ask away if you run into trouble!  8-)  Do you have a rod wrapper? Just curious as to how you'll be building your first rod.

[NorDoor]

Good luck and ask away if you run into trouble! 8-) Do you have a rod wrapper? Just curious as to how you'll be building your first rod.

I purchased a flex coat hand wrapper and a 18 rpm drying motor along with a few other items.I have a feeling I'm gonna need somthing for sanding my handles.I will definately be experimenting with cork rings and various color combo's. Guess I'll have to get a cheap lathe.

Is there any material you guys know of that epoxy won't stick to that I could use  as a mandrel?.I know I can build a jig and remove the mandrel after the cork is compressed.I just had another idea for a jig involving leaving the mandrel in.

[flechero]

I have a feeling I'm gonna need somthing for sanding my handles.ss I'll have to get a cheap lathe.

Is there any materiI will definately be experimenting with cork rings and various color combo's. Gueal you guys know of that epoxy won't stick to that I could use  as a mandrel?.I know I can build a jig and remove the mandrel after the cork is compressed.I just had another idea for a jig involving leaving the mandrel in.

There are several ways to turn cork...  You can buy a lathe or set up an old drill for a cheap and easy cork turning station.  The pics show a drill mounted to a board with a dryer vent's hose clamp.  I turn most of my grips on this one.  I use a 1/4" mandrel or a 1/2" mandrel (the 1/2" is made from a high grade bolt with the head removed and size trued.)

this one is the set up clamped to a rubbermaid bin to catch the debris and showing the tools I use for shaping.  I start with the sureform (cheese grater) to remove epoxy and quickly reduce size - then to the drywall screen for almost all the final sizing and any contours or rounding...  I have better luck doing this part by freehand than with any jigs.  After that it depends on who it's for if I go to sandpaper.  The correct speed with a drywall screen leaves a velvet like texture that I like.

You can put a coat of automotive wax on the mandrel to prevent sticking of the epoxy or if you are careful you can glue up on a 1/4" threaded rod or bolt with a wing nut.  I always get a little on the bolt but it breaks loos easily enough if I hold the bolt head with a wrench and "unscrew" the cork.  ...lol

Good luck, have fun and don't forget... to take pics along the way!

Keith

[NorDoor]

Thanks for the drill motor idea Flechero. Your cork press pics are what I had in mind. I'll definatly post pics too.

Take care,

Scott