Help Me. Deep Diving Crankbait

[TyTheAngler]

I was wondering how exactly to use a deep diving crankbait. When I ever use one all I feel is resistance on my pole so how am I supposed to detect a hit? Am I doing something wrong?

[roadwarrior]

When something tries to rip the rod out of your hands!

 

As with most any presentation or lure, the "where" is everything.

For the most part I want to be deflecting off structure, ticking cover

or digging bottom.

 

 

 

[ww2farmer]

IMHO deep cranking is one of the two techniques in bass fishing that "NEED" technique specific gear to fish properly(the other is punching heavy cover) Sure, you "can" do it with any rod/reel, but, to be blunt, it sucks without the right tools. What are you using to crank with? If all you feel is resistance, equipment selection might be an issue.

[fishballer06]

With the right rod and line, it's easy to detect a bite, especially after some experience. What is your setup that you're throwing on?

[Wayne P.]

I was catching bass with DD22's yesterday using 30# superline on a rod made for cranking.

A bass has more resistance than the lure.

When I saw these senarios, it was just about a sure catch. Disturbed shad schools:

 

 

 

 

[crankbank]

I use to throw deep divers on a rod more suitable for the shallow stuff... and I would ask the same. Running the crank alone took too much effort.  If you get the right tool for the job, it won't feel so overpowering.  Either way, when a fish is on.. you'll know it.

[flyfisher]

You will know because it will feel different than what you are experiencing.  I will also agree with crank bait specific gear makes a big difference.

[Fishes in trees]

After a dozen casts or so, you should know what not catching a fish feels like.  If something feels different than that, set the hook.

[TyTheAngler]

With the right rod and line, it's easy to detect a bite, especially after some experience. What is your setup that you're throwing on?

I was using Abu Garcia Pro Max Rod And Reel on 14lb Mono

[Brnnoser6983]

My thought.. what kind of pole are you using? If there is a lot of bend look at a MH or H.

Also a nice low gear reel. Something like a Revo or Orra winch. The 5:4.1 left's you easily get those baits down without resistance.

Between these two you should get the right feeling, and know when there is a real bite.

[Bluebasser86]

I agree with what others have said. If you don't have a setup for deep cranking, I'd get one if you're planning on doing it a lot. I hated deep cranks before I bought a rod and reel to handle them, like you said, I couldn't feel anything or tell what was a bite unless they really slammed it. Now that I have a deep cranking setup, it's amazing how much easier they are to fish and I can actually tell what's the bottom, what's a fish, when my bait is coming up and over something, even if the bottom is hard or soft. 

[smalljaw67]

This is going to sound like a stupid question but which crank were you using and are you in a boat or on shore? Everyone here summed it up, I have a 7' MH glass rod and it will handle a DT-14 but that is where it begins to have trouble. I can throw a DT-16 or a DD22 on it but the resistance makes it too hard to do for more than a few casts and while I normally like rods that are between 6'6" and 7'3", I honestly would use at least a 7'6" MH cranking rod to throw a DT-16 or DT-20 because rods of that length in a MH are designed for deeper diving baits. The other thing is you will feel bites better with a rod designed for deep cranking, the resistance is lower so it makes it a lot easier to detect strikes. I asked if you are fishing from shore because I think that is one place where a deep diving crank really isn't necessary, if there is a channel bend that comes close to the bank and offers deep water I would use a lipless bait to get down or work a jig up the side of the channel bend, trying to grind a deep plug into shallow water is going to be tough no matter what rod. As for bite detection with your current rod, well the rod will have a significant bend in it due to the resistance of the bait but concentrate on that resistance, when a fish takes it you get more resistance, even small fish, it will often feel as the bait got snagged on fishing line, it is something that you will just know once you catch a few fish deep cranking but I suggest you try something shallower or get a set up for deep cranks.

[TyTheAngler]

This is going to sound like a stupid question but which crank were you using and are you in a boat or on shore? Everyone here summed it up, I have a 7' MH glass rod and it will handle a DT-14 but that is where it begins to have trouble. I can throw a DT-16 or a DD22 on it but the resistance makes it too hard to do for more than a few casts and while I normally like rods that are between 6'6" and 7'3", I honestly would use at least a 7'6" MH cranking rod to throw a DT-16 or DT-20 because rods of that length in a MH are designed for deeper diving baits. The other thing is you will feel bites better with a rod designed for deep cranking, the resistance is lower so it makes it a lot easier to detect strikes. I asked if you are fishing from shore because I think that is one place where a deep diving crank really isn't necessary, if there is a channel bend that comes close to the bank and offers deep water I would use a lipless bait to get down or work a jig up the side of the channel bend, trying to grind a deep plug into shallow water is going to be tough no matter what rod. As for bite detection with your current rod, well the rod will have a significant bend in it due to the resistance of the bait but concentrate on that resistance, when a fish takes it you get more resistance, even small fish, it will often feel as the bait got snagged on fishing line, it is something that you will just know once you catch a few fish deep cranking but I suggest you try something shallower or get a set up for deep cranks.

Whenever I throw deep cranks, I am in a boat. When I bank fish im throwing lipless cranks and senkos