First rod build suggestions

[Indianafisherman]

I am thinking about making my first rod this winter to pass time. What would be a good blank to use? I don't want to spend too much as I am not wanting to waste money if I mess up. Thanks in advance.

[AnthonyRSS]

I got some great suggestions from the guys on this board.  Check the thread down the page a bit, "Blank Questions".  I haven't bought anything yet but I will soon.

Thanks,

Anthony

[flechero]

It all depends on what you want to end up with and what you are willing to spend.  The Batson blanks are budget friendly and great blanks (RX6 and RX7- I've not used RX8) for the price... the Cabela's blanks are usually well liked but I have no personal knowledge of them, other than they are very affordable.

[Alpster]

flechero's suggestions are right on, as usual. You may want to pick up a piece of 1/4" wood dowel at the hardware store and make a few wraps and practice applying and drying finish before you work with a blank that might get "messed up". JMHO

Ronnie

[dbass]

Get a kit. Cabela's offers them, so do many of the distributors. But get a kit...

Also read the sticky post "Newbies with rod building questions".

Good Luck & Tight Wraps!!!

[Cornel]

... the Cabela's blanks are usually well liked but I have no personal knowledge of them, other than they are very affordable.

This is coming from a beginner rod builder, but...

...my first built was on a Cabelas IM7 ($30)... And if we don't take into account the Shikari's I got at half price from Mudhole a while ago, that blank has probably the best price/performance ratio of all the blanks I used... That doesn't really mean much since I've only built about a dozen rods, but I've used G.Loomis, St.Croix, Shikari and Lamiglas and while Lamiglas takes the crown for the best blank (their XMG50 is AWESOME), the IM7 never let me down no matter what kind of crazy stuff I did: horsing a 20# grouper out of mangroves, pulling 50# braid till something breaks, etc...

C.

[MickD]

Some things to consider that I did not on my first few builds:

Reel seats usually are way too long and can be cut down-check out how many threads you need for your reels and cut off the rest.  It makes the handle section of the rod shorter and allows for more cork without making the butt too long.

Make sure you are making the butt cork to reel dimension one that will allow you to use the rod without the butt catching on your bicep/elbow (hand on reel foot (spinning) and arm bent, like when jigging).  The preglued corks may be cut down to any length you want-don't feel because it comes at 9 inches it has to stay that way.  Measure twice, cut once.

Put a hook keeper on it-the simple ones are dirt cheap and will protect the cork and/or first guide from damage from hooks.  So handy yet often are included on only the more expensive factory rods.   One thing I've started doing is using a Fuji 5.5 mm fly rod guide as a keeper.  Looks different, looks good, works well, and they cost less than $1.50.  Unlike the folding ones, the guide and the simple loop keepers are always open and handy.

If you plan on using braid, get a really high quality tip top.  I don't think the other guides will get grooved very quickly with braid, but the tiptop will if it is not a premium tiptop.  Even the best cost only about $5.

If you plan to use braid, go a little softer on the rod blank than if you plan to use mono.

Enjoy!