Airbrush Paints

[Doc-Drew]

My father has started using an airbrush to paint model cars in his spare time. I decided to get him some crankbait blanks for Christmas. From the reading I have done on this forum, it sounds like many of you like Createx paints. My question is, what are some common colors that are used in a lot of patterns to get him started? Any suggestions would be great. Thanks guys.

[Bluebasser86]

If he wants some practice baits I have some junk baits I've found you can have, I have no use for them but they could probably be usable again with some TLC. I've got a couple colors of jerkbaits I'd like done on the 110 blanks that I think would be pretty simple. If he wants to try them I'll get the blanks and I'm sure I can put whatever he turns out to good use. 

[Hi Salenity]

I think this is what I have

http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-Createx-Airbrush-Paint-Primary-Pearl-Opaque-Fluorescent-Cleaner-Color-Set-Kit-/290938301427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bd462bf3

That's a good start then I got some metallic gold silver & copper.

I like Predator Baits for the blanks.

[Doc-Drew]

If he wants some practice baits I have some junk baits I've found you can have, I have no use for them but they could probably be usable again with some TLC. I've got a couple colors of jerkbaits I'd like done on the 110 blanks that I think would be pretty simple. If he wants to try them I'll get the blanks and I'm sure I can put whatever he turns out to good use. 

Sure I will take some practice baits.  I ordered him some from predator to make (including their practice 2.5 crankbaits).  If you would like him to paint you some, I'm sure it would give him a purpose.  If you'd like to bring the junk and blanks to the "party" Thursday night I will be glad to pick them up and bring them to him.  

 

 

I think this is what I have

http://www.ebay.com/itm/23-Createx-Airbrush-Paint-Primary-Pearl-Opaque-Fluorescent-Cleaner-Color-Set-Kit-/290938301427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bd462bf3

That's a good start then I got some metallic gold silver & copper.

I like Predator Baits for the blanks.

Duh... why didn't I think of Ebay??  Thanks for that!

[Hi Salenity]

Drew, I'm glad you brought up lure painting. I had some time this afternoon so I got the airbrush out.

Now if I could remember where I put the eyes at???

[Bluebasser86]

Drew, I'm glad you brought up lure painting. I had some time this afternoon so I got the airbrush out.

Now if I could remember where I put the eyes at???

Those 110+1's are one I was really looking at. I had a white back, clear sides, chartreuse belly 110 I bought at the expo at the Classic a few years ago that was a killer. Unfortunately the bills on those must be about as fragile as an actual 110, or maybe they just don't build them to stand up to the zebs at the Vern. 

[Doc-Drew]

Drew, I'm glad you brought up lure painting. I had some time this afternoon so I got the airbrush out.

Now if I could remember where I put the eyes at???

Being that I reminded you of that, I think I deserve one... also since those are my alma mater's colors (South Dakota State University)

[Doc-Drew]

Those 110+1's are one I was really looking at. I had a white back, clear sides, chartreuse belly 110 I bought at the expo at the Classic a few years ago that was a killer. Unfortunately the bills on those must be about as fragile as an actual 110, or maybe they just don't build them to stand up to the zebs at the Vern. 

Well that sounds like it would be easy enough to paint.  I actually have one pretty similar to what you describe but it is an H2O jerkbait.  Grey crackle back, white/foil sides, chart belly.  Took it to the vern this past spring in our get together and my first 5 casts caught 5 whites...it was fun but wrong species.

[Doc-Drew]

One other question that I forgot to ask, what do you guys use for clear coats?

[Ratherbfishing]

Make sure to get him some yellow and orange paint so he can paint flames on the sides of his baits.  :  )

[Hi Salenity]

This is what I'm using. It's tough as nails but goes on thicker than I like. You can get it at Ace Hardware. Don't get the 30 minute cure as it won't flow good.

Are you wanting Santa to bring you a 110 or a 110+1?

[Doc-Drew]

This is what I'm using. It's tough as nails but goes on thicker than I like. You can get it at Ace Hardware. Don't get the 30 minute cure as it won't flow good.

Are you wanting Santa to bring you a 110 or a 110+1?

Thanks again for the info for clear coats.  I think he actually has some stuff but if not, now I know what to tell him.  

 

I would prefer a 110 but I'm not picky.  Santa may have something for you as well.

[Hi Salenity]

Tell Santa I like scantily clad petite blonds!

[BobP]

Did Hi Salenity mean to say "Don't get the 5 minute Devcon"?  The 30 minute Devcon Two Ton is the one you want.  The 5 minute versions won't level out, hardens too quick to brush before beginning to harden, plus it turns an ugly brown after exposure to UV for awhile.  Pluses:  epoxy is great looking and very durable.  Minuses:  you have to rotate the bait for 45 minutes after application or it will sag,  it's one of the thickest topcoats you can put on a bait, which is fine for wood baits but not very attractive on plastic baits.  It draws away from any sharp edge while it hardens and that area will chip and wear very quickly - like the belly edges of a 110.  There are all kinds of topcoats used on crankbaits and each has good and bad points.  For a casual user that doesn't want to get into it too far, perhaps a can of solvent based exterior grade urethane varnish will work -  dip it, hang it, let it dry, clean off the hook hangers, and voila.  No expertise in mixing, application, or curing required.  Another dip-able topcoat used by some guys is solvent based concrete sealer.  Notice I say "solvent based" when talking about crankbait topcoats - no water based topcoat has been shown to be proof against water immersion.

[Hi Salenity]

Thanks Bob!

[Doc-Drew]

Did Hi Salenity mean to say "Don't get the 5 minute Devcon"? The 30 minute Devcon Two Ton is the one you want. The 5 minute versions won't level out, hardens too quick to brush before beginning to harden, plus it turns an ugly brown after exposure to UV for awhile. Pluses: epoxy is great looking and very durable. Minuses: you have to rotate the bait for 45 minutes after application or it will sag, it's one of the thickest topcoats you can put on a bait, which is fine for wood baits but not very attractive on plastic baits. It draws away from any sharp edge while it hardens and that area will chip and wear very quickly - like the belly edges of a 110. There are all kinds of topcoats used on crankbaits and each has good and bad points. For a casual user that doesn't want to get into it too far, perhaps a can of solvent based exterior grade urethane varnish will work - dip it, hang it, let it dry, clean off the hook hangers, and voila. No expertise in mixing, application, or curing required. Another dip-able topcoat used by some guys is solvent based concrete sealer. Notice I say "solvent based" when talking about crankbait topcoats - no water based topcoat has been shown to be proof against water immersion.

Thanks Bob. Never can trust anything Hi Salenity says . With the dipping sealants, if he only does a few baits and then takes a couple months off, will the can of sealant dry or harden?

[BobP]

Depends on what it is and how it's handled.  For a urethane varnish or concrete sealer, it's usually enough to re-seal the can.  If you are concerned about a skin forming during storage you can use an aerosol can of Bloxygen to dose the can before you seal it.  Bloxygen is an inert nitrogen-argon gas mixture. Or as the air space increases in a can, you can decant your finish into jars that have less air space between the finish and the sealed top.  Both of those finishes simply harden as their solvent evaporates and if you can keep that from happening in the can, they stay liquid.  Other finishes are not so user friendly -  for example, moisture cured urethane makes a great coating but its very difficult to keep it from hardening once it has been exposed to moisture in the air.

[Doc-Drew]

Depends on what it is and how it's handled.  For a urethane varnish or concrete sealer, it's usually enough to re-seal the can.  If you are concerned about a skin forming during storage you can use an aerosol can of Bloxygen to dose the can before you seal it.  Bloxygen is an inert nitrogen-argon gas mixture. Or as the air space increases in a can, you can decant your finish into jars that have less air space between the finish and the sealed top.  Both of those finishes simply harden as their solvent evaporates and if you can keep that from happening in the can, they stay liquid.  Other finishes are not so user friendly -  for example, moisture cured urethane makes a great coating but its very difficult to keep it from hardening once it has been exposed to moisture in the air.

Thanks Bob!  I passed the info onto him to let him decide what he wants to do as far as clear coating.  Over the holiday, he and I painted a crankbait...  Here is the first attempt (it isn't clear coated yet)

 

 

The airbrush he currently has isn't a good one by any means.  No control of air pressure or paint flow.  I would describe the flow as more of spitting rather than spraying.  He really enjoyed painting it though so last night he ordered a better airbrush and supplies.  Needless to say, hes "hooked"    

[Zspider]

Here's where I get almost all my airbrush paints.

 

http://www.dickblick.com/

[MO_LMB]

Here's where I get almost all my airbrush paints.

 

http://www.dickblick.com/

 

I'm scared to click on this link at work.

[Zspider]

It's an art supply store based out of Illinois.

[Christian M]

Did Hi Salenity mean to say "Don't get the 5 minute Devcon"? The 30 minute Devcon Two Ton is the one you want. The 5 minute versions won't level out, hardens too quick to brush before beginning to harden, plus it turns an ugly brown after exposure to UV for awhile. Pluses: epoxy is great looking and very durable. Minuses: you have to rotate the bait for 45 minutes after application or it will sag, it's one of the thickest topcoats you can put on a bait, which is fine for wood baits but not very attractive on plastic baits. It draws away from any sharp edge while it hardens and that area will chip and wear very quickly - like the belly edges of a 110. There are all kinds of topcoats used on crankbaits and each has good and bad points. For a casual user that doesn't want to get into it too far, perhaps a can of solvent based exterior grade urethane varnish will work - dip it, hang it, let it dry, clean off the hook hangers, and voila. No expertise in mixing, application, or curing required. Another dip-able topcoat used by some guys is solvent based concrete sealer. Notice I say "solvent based" when talking about crankbait topcoats - no water based topcoat has been shown to be proof against water immersion.

[Christian M]

X2, 2 Ton Devcon 30min is the way to go