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Posted

I know this can be a controversial topic and I apologize up front in case this particular topic is on the forum somwhere...her we go.

I use braid on all of my rodd except my cranking rod...I use a 7 foot leader of both flouro or mono depending on lures chosen for that rod on that day with leader weights ranging from 8 to 20 lbs.... I understand the sensitivity and streng5h drawbacks and positives on using braid, but I never see anything on how leaders effect performance....if I was to start using braid with a light leader for my cranking how would it likely effect my dive dpeth...braid is thinner yet buoyant so I would think it would cut the water cleaner, but how will the joining knot drag and boyancy affect depth and performance.... I have used this set up with cranking in the past and it's been fine, I do lighten up the drag and work the fish with a little less force to ensure I'm not pulling hooks, but lately I'm running pure flouro on my cranking rods although I'd like to get back to braid and leader..

I also run leaders with jigs..drop shots..worms..topwater..and lipless..pretty much everything but cranks.

I'm trying to decide if I am handicapping myself at all...also..what about clear water...are you against braid all together or do you think a 7 foot leader is sufficient? I kind of feel like I'm rambling, I hope this makes sense...any help is greatly appreciated. . This site is absolutely amazing and has got me thinking of kinds of different styles approaches and techniques...to whom ever runs the show here...THANK YOU

  • Super User
Posted

Why not crank with straight braid? Only problem I've found with straight braid cranking is getting hung up is a pain because you can't break off, but if you have a good lure retriever then you will be fine.

And in clear water I'll worry about line visibility when I'm not in thick cover and its a slow moving bait. If it ain't clear water then I'm not worried about line visibility at all.

  • Super User
Posted

I crank with braid and a FC leader.  Lenght is all personal preference.  So if you're wanting to go back to braid use a FC leader.  I would probably drop size in braid down to 20lb and then you can vary your FC or mono leaders to achieve the depths you're looking to hit or bring them up a bit.  

Posted

Why not crank with straight braid? Only problem I've found with straight braid cranking is getting hung up is a pain because you can't break off, but if you have a good lure retriever then you will be fine.

And in clear water I'll worry about line visibility when I'm not in thick cover and its a slow moving bait. If it ain't clear water then I'm not worried about line visibility at all.

20lb or 30lb can be broken off pretty easily. You'd probably straighten out the hooks before you broke off though.
Posted

The braid I currently use on my other set ups us 20-30 lbs...sounds like I can go back to that set up with my cranking now too...I find braid has a lot further casting distance and sensitive that fc and mono and I just want to get back to that with cranking... I have always used a long leader since I made the transition to braid...doesn't sound like anyone is having issues with leader and braid or braid alone when cranking....Thanks for the responses.... as for clear water...2 foot clarity and more...would u recommend stripping the braid and going all mono or flouro...I ask because I will be fishing Florida this coming January and am not sure of the clarity around the lake george area and don't want to be disadvataged...I haven't had issues with braid and fc in the glades, but I wasn't chasing lmb either...thanx again

  • Super User
Posted

20lb or 30lb can be broken off pretty easily. You'd probably straighten out the hooks before you broke off though.

Ya but you'll lose alot of braid when you snap it, with a leader you just lose the little but of flouro.

  • Super User
Posted

I think that a 2 foot leader works for me ok.   There are lots of different ways to deal with snags and hang ups.  I carry both an extendable pole type and a hound dog type.   Depending on the snag, one will be better suited than the other.

 

Personally, I have a five minute rule.  If it looks like the lure extraction is going to take longer than 5 minutes, or if a few minutes into the extraction it looks like it is going to take much longer than I thought AND if it isn't a lure I'm emotionally attached to, I wrap the line around a boat cleat and back it off with the trolling motor.  That solves the problem most of the time.  Waste your time retying rather than trying to get it unstuck and your line will most likely be scuffed up enough that you will have to retie anyway.

 

If the lure is one that I have some emotional attachment to, I will spend as much time as necessary to try to get it back.  Should I fail to get it back, I understand that I only had temporary custody of it anyway.

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