CATCHnRELEASE Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 I have a Fenwick Techna AV baitcasting rod that is really nice but it has a problem. When I put the reel on the reel seat and tighten it down with the tightening device it will slip when it gets to a certain level and not hold the reel securely in place. I was wondering if there is any way to fix this? It does tighten pretty well but it always eventually comes loose after some hard hook sets. I have tried tightening it as far as it will go without slipping and then putting rod wrap on it really tight to hold it in place. This worked for awhile but then it came loose again. Any ideas on how to fix it because it is a really nice rod. P.S. - I can not take the rod back as I bought it broken. I used to work at the Berkley outlet store and would buy alot of broken Techna AV's and Berkley Series One rods and then fix them a little. I could get $100-$200 rods for around $20 bucks. Quote
Guest DavidGreen Posted May 11, 2007 Posted May 11, 2007 CATCHnRELEASE, I was going to recommend, shimming the reel foot between the reel foot and the seat. But it sounds like you might have tried that route already. The threads on the seat have worn enough to not have a good bite, and acting like they are stripped. Unless to can get Fenwick® to repair/replace the rod your stuck.. The only other recourse you would have, would be to cut the old seat off and replace it. Good Luck... Quote
rglabach Posted May 18, 2007 Posted May 18, 2007 If you are happy dedicating a reel to that rod, consider tightening the fastener and then glue it into place with Devcon Plastic Welder. It is a structural glue that can be cut once you elect to "liberate" your reel. Rick Quote
bassripper2000 Posted May 18, 2007 Posted May 18, 2007 Use teflon tape to wrap around the threads on the real seat. That should hold it in place for each outing. Removable and redo-able... Quote
Cephkiller Posted May 19, 2007 Posted May 19, 2007 I hate to sound like the redneck that I am, but I used a rod with a broken reel seat for many years by using cable ties to hold the reel in place. It worked fine. Quote
Triton21 Posted May 21, 2007 Posted May 21, 2007 Black elec. tape will work also. ie. Tennessee handle. Quote
PILL Posted May 27, 2007 Posted May 27, 2007 Zip Ties FTW! Seriously, those things are awesome. Quote
Diablos Posted May 27, 2007 Posted May 27, 2007 If the situation drives you nuts you're better off going all the way. Replace the seat with a new one. Depending on the rod handle, it might be a job that could be done from rear end. A good rod builder should charge you for parts $5-7 for a standard Fuji seat and about $7-10 for a rear cork piece and about $15 labor. It's a small price to pay for a rod you love. Quote
Super User flechero Posted May 27, 2007 Super User Posted May 27, 2007 A good rod builder should charge you... ...about $15 labor. I wouldn't touch it for 3 times that labor price. Quote
Guest DavidGreen Posted May 27, 2007 Posted May 27, 2007 A good rod builder should charge you... ...about $15 labor. I wouldn't touch it for 3 times that labor price. There it is........ I used to work at the Berkley outlet store and would buy alot of broken Techna AV's and Berkley Series One rods and then fix them a little. I could get $100-$200 rods for around $20 bucks.Besides he didn't pay anymore than $20 for it anyway...I figured this rod was going to get taped or clamped from the beginnig Quote
Diablos Posted May 28, 2007 Posted May 28, 2007 A good rod builder should charge you... ...about $15 labor. I wouldn't touch it for 3 times that labor price. A local custom rod manufacturer that does sub-contract work for Lamiglas and All-Star would charge about that plus parts. I guess it just depends on what you think your time is worth. Quote
Super User flechero Posted May 28, 2007 Super User Posted May 28, 2007 Diablos, You may be right but I'd be very suprised... only because I know what it actually takes to change a reel seat. I have a t-rig rod that I used last year, that the reel seat nut also stripped out on- I built another rod instead of replacing the seat... Even if you had a non exposed seat and cut it & the cork off and then shimmed the new rear cork and shimmed the seat on from the rear, you would still be in for a 2hr. job. Last time I worked for $7.50/hr. I was in high school... and I'll have my 20 yr reunion in another year. Can you call him? And mention that it's a Fenwick Techna AV with an exposed blank reel seat and get a price for me and the original poster. You have me curious. Besides, if it's even close to your price, I'll probably send my rod to him as well. (being serious, not being a smart alec) Thanks, Keith Quote
Diablos Posted May 28, 2007 Posted May 28, 2007 If you can take a clear picture of the butt section..I promise you I will go by there(1.5 miles from my house) and get a quote for you. If you're satisfied I'll give you the phone number and you can give them a call. Just take into cosideration the shipping costs to and from and also they do alot of custom stuff and usually fall 4-6 weeks behind even for minor work. Low Budget Hookers has said that he has rods made there before and should know about their low labor rates. The name of the company is CMS Enterprise in New Bedford, Mass. I just found the receipt from them for a bass rod I had made last year when I was shore fishing. They made me a Batson ISB841 blank with 8 Fuji SVSG Sic guides, Fuji DPSD 16 reel seat, 9" rear cork, 3" fore cork with a fancy diamond wrap for $215.00 Quote
Super User flechero Posted May 28, 2007 Super User Posted May 28, 2007 I know of the company. That price sounds right on your custom and in line with what I and many others would charge. Your original price estimate was probably based on the installation of new seat and cork.... forgetting that the harder part is removal of the old seat and cork and prep of the area for new stuff coming on from behind. No need for you to go get the quote, a 7' rod tube, insured, round trip from Tx to Mass would be $50 ish for me plus the cost of any work. Besides, who else in the world has a split gripped, spiral wrapped, custom made door stop built on an All Star blank? ;D Quote
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