finishing off a reel seat without a foregrip

[flechero]

This is something I played around with for a while. If you build casting rods with no foregrip, you always have to figure out how to finish off the front of the reel seat. I was bouncing between threadmaster ramps and pvc/vinyl winding checks.... I like checks better but they are inconsistently sized and rarely mate with the seat at the height you want. Finally I found the answer - and it is so easy it that I was embarrassed I never saw it sooner.

A gunsmithing file and a piece of masking tape is all you need to finish off a check. 2-3 wraps of tape tight to the check will protect the blank (if you pay attention) The file actually cuts the check nicely- go slow and use caution on the blank.

Here is one I finished off a little while ago. Notice how close you can match the seat... and that's in a tight macro setting, I promise your eyes can't detect any imperfections. This one was 2-3 minutes worth of file work, taking my sweet time. I also like how it cuts the "plasticy" shine off the check.

[Alpster]

That looks real nice, I will try it for sure. Do you plan to leave it as is or will you run a thread wrap up to it? I had thought about trying to push an O-ring between the real seat & the blank, but if the seat fits properly, there is not enough room. Nice work as always and a great idea. Keep em comming.

Ronnie

[Gatorbassman]

Now that's nice. I'm gonna have to give that a try.

[flechero]

Thanks guys!

This one won't have any thread in front, in fact I rarely have thread up front.  (sometimes I use the space for decal and finish though)

That one had no extra room, it was reamed out so far that the threaded section was fit to the blank.  When I have a big enough seat, I use the flex coat or fuji arbors in the threaded section of the seats so I can keep it squared up to the blank before epoxying it in place.  

Speaking of which, I buy arbors just oversize of the threaded section of reel seats and turn them down to fit, on a 1/4" mandrel. (since they do not make them in the right size)  Takes only a minute and then you have a perfect fit.

[justtrying]

good idea, good job.   ..that really looks nice.  i'm building a couple right now that i think i'll try it on.

[jm529]

looks nice and great idea but i think it'll only work on seats that are a tight fit to the blank. it'll look hot with a titanium or aluminum winding check in front of that. you can turn a small peice of eva for the same effect if the gap is larger between the seat and blank.

[flechero]

looks nice and great idea but i think it'll only work on seats that are a tight fit to the blank. it'll look hot with a titanium or aluminum winding check in front of that. you can turn a small peice of eva for the same effect if the gap is larger between the seat and blank.

On most of the "normal" size blanks, the checks work as they come.  This was only meant to be a solution for when the checks overhang the seat threads.  It's a factor of larger blanks because the threaded section of the reel seat is sized for a foregrip end, not for blank dia.  I've run across this with both Fuji and Batson seats on all large dia. blanks.  

I've tried a few EVA as you suggested, but it just looked wierd, so I never left them... eva is hard to work down to a mm or two- all the ones I tried, ended up more like the little rubber hozels or collars.

I do like the aluminum and plated checks but just not for this purpose...

Here is a "normal" sized blank and check...  if you are wondering what "normal" size is, this is an  MBR844 IMX blank with a fuji ECS seat.

[Guest DavidGreen]

Keith,

That is true craftsmanship, taking the small details one step further..

Very nice!

David.....

[bassripper2000]

Hi Flechero,

Nice Work!! I have 2 questions for you

Newb Question 1:

When you want to take off the reel, does the seat screw unscrew past the check and off onto the blank, or does it have just enough room to take the reel off.  I am wondering how many threads I should cut off my reel seat for the no foregrip feature.

Newb Question 2:

How do you get the winding check to stick to the reel seat?

Thanks

[Guest DavidGreen]

bassripper2000,

Most of the reels that I use to take threads off for, only removed 2 maybe 3 threads. Not enough to justify doing it anymore. All of the ECS seats I use now are full length.

As for attaching the wind check to the seat a 5 min. epoxy will work if your quick enough at it.

Just my .02¢

Tight Wraps!!!  

[flechero]

BR2K,

Yes, the hood nut on the seat will unscrew over the check, that is the other reason for needing to reduce the check size. (it also makes it look finished) I cut my reel seats so to fit the reel with the largest foot. Just remember that once you cut it, you'll need to smooth and square the cut... I do that on a sander but the trick is to cut it a little longer than you need to so you don't go to short when you sand it.

I use Locktite 6 min. gel epoxy (orange label) available at lowes and Ace- just scuff up and clean the back of the check before you slip it on the rod. (and remember to do that before taping on the guides ) I use that specific epoxy for many things.

ReelMech,

I appreciate the compliments!

[bassripper2000]

Thanks for the help guys!! Off to experiment.  

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

Problem solved Keith, nice work!