Mason Moore Posted October 10, 2014 Posted October 10, 2014 I have been reading forums and watching videos about crankbaits since fall is here. But I still don't understand why you would use light line. Any advice? Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 Also what's your idea of light? When I think of light line, #6-8 comes to mind. Typical spinning gear sized line. A lot of people use fluoro for cranks because it sinks and it allows you to use a higher strength line due to it's size verses mono. Example... #10 mono and #14 fluoro are roughly the same size. When you step down to say #10 or 12 fluoro you can gain a foot or more in depth. Quote
Super User new2BC4bass Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 Example... #10 mono and #14 fluoro are roughly the same size. When you step down to say #10 or 12 fluoro you can gain a foot or more in depth. And what brand would that be? This statement didn't seem right to me so I checked 5 brands on TW. In 3 brands the fluoro and mono were basically the same size. In 2 the fluoro was .002 smaller...not nearly enough to make 14# fluoro equal to 10# mono. Quote
ABW Posted October 10, 2014 Posted October 10, 2014 Smaller diameter of line = less resistance in the water = more depth Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 And what brand would that be? This statement didn't seem right to me so I checked 5 brands on TW. In 3 brands the fluoro and mono were basically the same size. In 2 the fluoro was .002 smaller...not nearly enough to make 14# fluoro equal to 10# mono. InvizX #15 = .013" Stren #10 = .012 InvizX does not come in #14, but this is close enough I think to prove the point. Quote
Super User Catch and Grease Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 You don't have to use light line for cranks. lighter is not always better, with my shallow cranks ill throw them on 15lb test. I normally use 30lb braid though and its pretty thin. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 I fish Sunline Super Natural #12 for shallow crankbaits, #30 Tuf-Line Heavy Core for deep divers. 1 Quote
Super User Catch and Grease Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 I fish Sunline Super Natural #12 for shallow crankbaits, #30 Tuf-Line Heavy Core for deep divers. http://www.tuf-line.com/products_TUF-Lines_24.html Hey Roadwarrior that's one of those sinking braids aint it?? Do you get noticeably more depth with the sinking braid, or is it not much different than normal 30lb braid? Isn't that specific braid like weighted or something to give it that sinking property or is it something else? Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted October 10, 2014 Posted October 10, 2014 It's all about line diameter and the effect it has on diving depth. For open water cranking I run 10# mono, Suffix Elite, smoke color if that matters. RWs heavy core idea is worth a look if your throwing deep diving cranks. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 I generally run 10 or 12# Tatsu or 10# CXX on diving cranks. If I thought I needed an extra 6" of running depth, I'd use a different bait, rather than try to step down to anything lighter. Cranks are a contact bait for me - meaning, they rooting through cover, rocks, pilings, sunken wood, etc., not just hauling water. With that contact, you need to consider your line choice carefully. There's more to line choice parameters than just diameter. Yes, as a general rule, thinner line runs deeper. How much deeper? And does that little extra make a difference? Does going lighter have some risks I'm willing to live with, in order to get bit? Answer these questions, try new things, see how it works. I know guys that run as light as 6# line on their casting rigs for cranks. They sometimes out fish me. I also see them casting off cranks into oblivion, with the line snapping on the cast, and I see them losing fish sometimes. Braid might seem like a reasonable solution, and I bet would help the guys I just mentioned. For me, it doesn't work the way I want it to. Rebound, deflection, feel, and reaction are all "too quick" for my taste, and a slower rod did not fix this for me. For someone else, this may not be an issue. Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 Hey Roadwarrior that's one of those sinking braids aint it?? Do you get noticeably more depth with the sinking braid, or is it not much different than normal 30lb braid? Isn't that specific braid like weighted or something to give it that sinking property or is it something else? The line sinks, but otherwise it fishes much like any other braid. My deep diving rig is a Lamiglas SR705R/ CTE200GT/ #30 TUF-Line Heavy Core. For shallow crankbaits: http://www.bassresource.com/fishing_lures/pinnacle-optimus-xlt-dhc-review.html 1 Quote
Super User new2BC4bass Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 InvizX #15 = .013" Stren #10 = .012 InvizX does not come in #14, but this is close enough I think to prove the point. I was comparing mono and fluoro within the same brands. Kind of apples to apples. I'm not going to waste my time searching, but going by your method it probably could be proved that 10# fluoro is the nearly the same size as 14# mono. Seagar's own 10# Shenshi mono is .010 which appears to be the norm for 10# mono. Quote
IAY Posted October 10, 2014 Posted October 10, 2014 I was comparing mono and fluoro within the same brands. Kind of apples to apples. I'm not going to waste my time searching, but going by your method it probably could be proved that 10# fluoro is the nearly the same size as 14# mono. Seagar's own 10# Shenshi mono is .010 which appears to be the norm for 10# mono. Some companies uses "standardized" method of measuring strength, while others do not. They all will have generally the same strength based on the diameter of the line. I personally enjoy fishing with .01 inches or .009 inches diameter nylon or fluorocarbon, since it makes the lure dive a bit deeper and the fight is more enjoyable for me. Quote
Global Moderator Mike L Posted October 10, 2014 Global Moderator Posted October 10, 2014 I switched to 12# Yo Zuri for shallow cranks ( which is all I throw) a while ago from what was recommended here. But at the roadtrip on Wilson last April, knowing we'd be going a lot deeper, I was gonna change it up but someone told me not too. I'm glad I listened. Mike Quote
kikstand454 Posted October 10, 2014 Posted October 10, 2014 Yup. 12# yzh on all my cranks- deep and shallow. If I spent more time below 18' .... I'd probably step down to 10# yzh. 1 Quote
Super User Darren. Posted October 10, 2014 Super User Posted October 10, 2014 I see this is your first post on the forums, Mason, welcome aboard! Not much of a crank fisherman myself, but I've thrown cranks on 8 to 15 pound test. Since it isn't a staple of mine, I don't put too much thought into it like others do. Quote
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