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Posted

This has been my first year boating. Needless to say I've learned a lot. From launching and loading to just manuerving oh yea and before I thought I was good at fishing. Turns out I gotta a lot to learn.

My latest task I've been trying master is loading and unloading the boat without getting in the water. I'm pretty good at driving the boat up on the trailer; thanks to some guides I made.

Unloading has been another issue. With someone I've done good. The other day bymyself did not go so well.

I backed the boat down the launch and when it hit the water unhooked the wench. I had watched some videos of people putting the boat in reverse and backing it off the trailer. I attempted to do the same. So I was successfully able to reverse the boat off the trailer. As soon as I was off the motor died. At this point I tried to start it again. It's a pull start so I pulled and the rope wouldn't budge. This freaked me out. Tried again wouldn't budge. At this point I'm floating towards some rocks and a docked boat. I freaked out and jumped in. Oh yea my phone was in my pocket that's one iPhone down. I was in about 3 feet of water. Pushed the boat back to the dock and tied it up. Looked down and duh boat won't start in reverse. Put it back in neutral and started right up. Long story short, I learned to try and keep a level head and not freak out at the first problem.

  • Super User
Posted

Tie a long rope to the bow eye when you launch. You can hold on to the rope as you back in. Once the boat is off the bunks put the truck in park, pull the boat to the dock, and go park the truck

  • Like 4
  • Super User
Posted

There are several variations on Sloanzp's theme, but the key is a long rope tied to the bow of the boat.

  • Super User
Posted

Good advice from Sloan .... As time moves forward you will fine tune a system..

Oh... Ditch the iPhone, lol..

Posted

Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.

  • Super User
Posted

Ramps vary.  On the steeper ramps you can get the boat onto the trailer, and step off the bow onto dry land to hook it up, and to winch it all the way on, if necessary.

 

On gently sloping ramps, you may have to get the rear wheels of your tow vehicle in the water before it will float off.

 

I've been on ramps where I've had to get four wheels of the tow vehicle into the water.

 

When I'm on those type of ramps, I bring my hip boots.  Slip out of my shoes, and into the hip boots.  Once launched, change back into my shoes.

 

Rubber-Hip-Boots.jpg

 

Reverse the procedure for loading.

 

I use the long rope technique, but I secure it to the winch stand.  I back up slowly until the boat floats off.  Then I pull the truck ahead, slowly, until the trailer is out of the water.  Then get out, disconnect the line from the trailer, and deal with the boat. 

 

On some ramps there may not be a dock, and the bottom may be rocky on both sides of the ramp.  That's why I have a keel guard on the boat.  I can pull it in until the keel guard touches the ramp.  Then lift the bow slightly and pull it on a few inches.  If there is a sign post or something like that at the ramp, near the water, I secure the line to that while I park the vehicle.

 

Lift the bow, push the boat back until the keel guard just touches the ramp.  Getting behind the wheel makes the stern squat a bit which lifts the keel guard from the ramp.  This allows you to back away without scraping the keel guard on the concrete.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

I keep a rope with those SS hooks that will latch on each end. I hook one end in the front eye on the boat and the other end in the eye on the rear off the trailer where I hook the tie down strap. I back the boat in, let it clear the trailer and then ease forward until the trailer is far enough out of the water I can walk behind it. The boat is safely tethered to the trailer about 20 feet back. All I have to do is un-clip it, pull and secure it and go park my truck.

If you can find a rope that floats, it greatly reduces the chances of the rope getting hung on the bunks, which I have happen a couple of times.

One correction, I said the boat was safely tethered 20 feet behind. Not exactly, especially if you pull forward too fast, it will beat you to the back of the trailer.

  • Super User
Posted

I keep a rope with those SS hooks that will latch on each end. I hook one end in the front eye on the boat and the other end in the eye on the rear off the trailer where I hook the tie down strap. I back the boat in, let it clear the trailer and then ease forward until the trailer is far enough out of the water I can walk behind it. The boat is safely tethered to the trailer about 20 feet back. All I have to do is un-clip it, pull and secure it and go park my truck.

If you can find a rope that floats, it greatly reduces the chances of the rope getting hung on the bunks, which I have happen a couple of times.

Polypropylene line floats.  Used it back in my lobstering days.  Floating line from the trap spliced into sinking line tied to the buoy.  Floating line kept it from tangling on bottom obstructions, and sinking line reduced the chances of being cut off by boat propellers.

 

They changed the law after I left the fishery.  Now, floating line is banned.  Too many turtles, whales and basking sharks getting tangled on line floating off the bottom.

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