chris55552 Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 On two separate and recent occasions I got my line snapped and heart broke by two different bass I know were in the neighborhood of 10 pounds. One snapped my fluorocarbon and the other snapped my monofilament line, both occurred on deep water humps slow rolling a spinnerbait. Thinking of going to braid to prevent this from happening again and could use some suggestions. I use a duckett micro magic 7 MH paired with a lews reel throwing Spinnerbaits and topwater . What would be a good braid? Quote
ABW Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 Try different brands and see which one you like. I personally like Original Power Pro Edit: There may have been a knick in the line, did you check it every now and then? Quote
Super User Catch and Grease Posted October 1, 2014 Super User Posted October 1, 2014 I really like original PP and PP super slick, buuut switching to braid probably won't help you much, FC is more abrasion resistant than braid anyway, might be something other than your line causing your break-offs what lb test was breaking on you? What cover were you fishing? Was you drag correctly set? Quote
OntarioFishingGuy Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 Sufix 832. Super tough braid. 2 Quote
BasshunterJGH Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 50 lb sunline fx2 with a fluorocarbon leader imo. Quote
mc6524 Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 Silly question...what pound of flurries were you using?. Most Rees have a max drag of around 14 pounds. If your Fluor line is heavier than your max drag you really should be alright. Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted October 1, 2014 Super User Posted October 1, 2014 Is it breaking in the line or at the knot? Since it happened with fluoro and mono,I'm going to venture a guess and say it might be the knot. Also checking your line after catching a few fish and retying is great practice. Helps breaking off and possibly loosing a double digit bass. Run a q tip around your guides and make sure it doesn't get hung up. With those guide it'll be tough but figure out a way to do it. Setting your drag to about 1/3 of lines test is also the proper procedure. #12 = 4lbs of drag. Quote
chris55552 Posted October 1, 2014 Author Posted October 1, 2014 14lb sniper fluorocarbon, now that you mention it I didn't rety my knot between catches so that may be the culpurit. Im basically running and burning 3/8 ounce spinnerbaits through submerged hydrilla and pepper grass. My lews has a 14lb drag and im using 14lb fluorocarbon, so I guess my question would be what is the correlation between the reels drag weight and line weight? How does that factor in? Quote
Super User rippin-lips Posted October 1, 2014 Super User Posted October 1, 2014 14lb sniper fluorocarbon, now that you mention it I didn't rety my knot between catches so that may be the culpurit. Im basically running and burning 3/8 ounce spinnerbaits through submerged hydrilla and pepper grass. My lews has a 14lb drag and im using 14lb fluorocarbon, so I guess my question would be what is the correlation between the reels drag weight and line weight? How does that factor in? Max drag is just a number really. Unless you are using heavy 65-80lb braid and punching some really thick stuff,there won't be any need to set it tight. 1/3 of the line you are using. #20 would get 6-7lbs of drag. Quote
desmobob Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 I've had great luck with the original Power Pro. I just put some 30lb. Suffix 832 on my Lew's TP and it seems like my casting distance has reduced a bit. I think the 832 has a little more "body" and doesn't wind-knot like the PP sometimes does. Braid really spoiled me... when I fish a rod using mono, it feels like I'm using a long rubber band for line! ;-) Tight lines, Bob Quote
Super User fishballer06 Posted October 1, 2014 Super User Posted October 1, 2014 I'm a big fan of Suffix 832. I don't like how rough and noisy PowerPro is, and it seems to give me more backlash problems than anything else. 1 Quote
Capt.Bob Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 Most braid isn't as abrasion resistant as the lines you mention. Suffix 832 is, and all I use, then to get the most abrasion resistance I have found in lines, I use Trilene BIG GAME,,,, this stuff is to stiff and has a lot of memory for use as mainline on most smaller reels, but when I use it for leader material I control all my fishing needs for weight and durability with excellent no stretch fishing and added sensitivity. Before 832 I used Fireline for mainline, as it like 832 are proven the most durable limpest abrasion restant synthetics we can get today. There are other lines available and most cheaper than 832 but none as abrasion restant, very important to me, and 832 is thinner pound for pound test of most other braids,,,,just why I use it,,,,,on everything form 10# to 65# Quote
thehooligan Posted October 1, 2014 Posted October 1, 2014 I like sufix performance braid followed by power pro... Quote
Super User WIGuide Posted October 1, 2014 Super User Posted October 1, 2014 14lb sniper fluorocarbon, now that you mention it I didn't rety my knot between catches so that may be the culpurit. Im basically running and burning 3/8 ounce spinnerbaits through submerged hydrilla and pepper grass. My lews has a 14lb drag and im using 14lb fluorocarbon, so I guess my question would be what is the correlation between the reels drag weight and line weight? How does that factor in? I'd check your knot and how you tie it before you think you need to start switching lines. Make sure you are wetting your line before you tighten it and that you're not cinching it down to quickly. If you tie a knot and the tag end or main line have a curly cue type look to them you burnt the line and severely weakened the knot. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted October 1, 2014 Super User Posted October 1, 2014 I don't think I could EVER use braid with a spinnerbait. I use 15# CXX for most spinnerbaiting, and 12# if I want to go deeper. Set your drag appropriately, check your knots, and retie when your line is damaged. It's been a loooooong time sine something other than a northern pike broke my line, and even then it's pretty rare. 1 Quote
Global Moderator Bluebasser86 Posted October 2, 2014 Global Moderator Posted October 2, 2014 I don't think I could EVER use braid with a spinnerbait. I use 15# CXX for most spinnerbaiting, and 12# if I want to go deeper. Set your drag appropriately, check your knots, and retie when your line is damaged. It's been a loooooong time sine something other than a northern pike broke my line, and even then it's pretty rare. I've tried a couple times and hated it. I've been broken off by bass, but usually due to zebra mussels, dock pillars, or heavy cover of some kind. Check your line often and make sure the knot is good and there's no reason even a 10 pounder shouldn't make it to the boat in open water unless it tosses the bait. Quote
primetime Posted October 3, 2014 Posted October 3, 2014 Braid is not a solution to line breaking as it is actually less abrasion resistant than fluoro or mono especially if you are slow rolling a spinnerbait over a hard bottom...Braid will weaken and fray easily and it doesnt matter what brand as all braids are either Spectra or Dyneema which are essentially the same material just made by 2 different companies. 832 contains a strand of Gore and is a multi weave so is more abrasion resistant than regular PPro which is a 4 strand. I like 832 or Power Pro Plus, or any 8 strand since they are quiet, thin, cast easier and I never have the problem of digging on my casting reels. I like Crystal for spinning if going with braid only because of the clear color, but I always use a leader and make sure I tie a good knot, and I check it often if fishiing a shell bed or after every strike or fish.... If I cast and hit a dock or my line rubs up against anything that can compromise my line, I quickly check it for damage and simply tie a new knot and cut off a few feet of line. I hate losing fish because I am lazy or excited to get another cast in the water and not re-tie so I am really careful when tying knots as well, always make sure I lock them down without doing any damage. Quote
Preytorien Posted October 3, 2014 Posted October 3, 2014 You'll get a million answers. I've used PP, Sufix 832, Spiderwire Sufix 832 wins, hands down, every time Quote
papajoe222 Posted October 3, 2014 Posted October 3, 2014 Do you know the reason behind the line breakage? The reason I ask is the type of line may not be the cause. Big fish put you equipment to the test and will find any weak links. Knots, drag settings, dull hooks, old or nicked line, just to name a few. I've had fluoro break 30ft. Up from my lure where there was a kink from a prior backlash. The first big fish I had on put that line to the test and it failed. Using braid can give you a false sense of security when it comes to line breakage. Just saying 1 Quote
Super User F14A-B Posted October 3, 2014 Super User Posted October 3, 2014 You should Always, check you're line Often,when probing with spinnerbaits, you don't have to have caught a fish to check/ retie.. Use Yozuri or PXX And forget braid! Lol.... Quote
Super User QUAKEnSHAKE Posted October 3, 2014 Super User Posted October 3, 2014 You should Always, check you're line Often,when probing with spinnerbaits, you don't have to have caught a fish to check/ retie.. Use Yozuri or PXX And forget braid! Lol.... BLASPHEMER 1 Quote
Super User SirSnookalot Posted October 3, 2014 Super User Posted October 3, 2014 I use braid for all my freshwater and inshore fishing with leader, I'm not overly fussy on brand. Only time my lines break is my own user error, that's not checking line or leader for damage. Sometimes I break off on purpose but it's the leader knot that gets broken, not the main line. As Francho stated above, check your lines and your drag, with a good hook set most fish should be landed. I don't catch too many big bass, I'm happy with fish 21-26", but I do catch fish larger than that almost daily. My heaviest braid is 20#, it does the job. Quote
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