Poison Tail Jig...help

[jsettnek]

I just started pouring my own jigs like 8 hours ago. I've never poured my own lures so of course I picked a doozie of a starter-- The poison tail jig.

I've encountered a couple of problems so far. I'm hoping someone here can help me solve them.

I'm using the lee production pot (has a pour spout on the bottom) and of course the poison tail jig mold. I have the correct hooks and weed guards. I can pour the jigs without the hooks and weed guards and they look perfect but when I add the hooks and weed guards they don't fill completely.

Is there a trick to get around this or am I just  missing something completely?

Thanks for any help...

[harshman]

Are you pouring a couple with out hooks and weed guards first to warm the mold?

Are you able to center the mold under the spout?

What temp is your lead pot set at?  (the hotter the better while pouring)

Have you tried smolting the mold? ( use a non-scented candle and hold the mold cavity directly above the candle and allow the soot from the flame to collect in the cavity leaving a black film. this will allow the lead to move easier throughout the mold and make removal of the jig a little easier. This will not disclolor the jig like you might think it would.)

Try these out and if they don't help pm me and I we'll figure out just what is going wrong.

Harshman

[Siebert Outdoors]

I agree with harshman, also pour them with the pin not a weedgaurd.  the pin will work alot better and the overall look of the jig is better when the gaurd is epoxied in.  Makes it easier to paint too.

Make sure your pouring straight into the mold not running lead down the side of it.  The mold does have to be warm it seems like.

[jsettnek]

I did smolt the mold and I poured a few without hooks before I did them with hooks. You may be right about lead temp. I set it on 6 which I though was good. The do-it instructions said the lead should be 700-800 degrees so maybe I'm running too cool. I'll give it try tomorrow and let you know how I do.

Thanks again

[Triton21]

Set the mold on top of your lead pot while the lead is melting with the pour holes down.  This will heat the mold.  I have to use a insulated glove on the hand I hold the handle with but can pour a 1/16 shakey head ball jig with wire and a 4/0 owner light wire jig hook perfect every time.  I pour a few blanks (no hooks or wire) just to make sure it is hot enough.

Kelley

[harshman]

I usually set my lead pot which I think is very similar to yours on at least 8 if not nine when I pour anything and let it warm up at least 10-5 minutes after the lead has returned to liquid form. That way you can be sure the lead stays hot long enough to reach all the areas inside the mold cavity. I also have to agree with GMAN on pouring wuth base pins ilo weed guards in place. It sure makes it alot easier to paint even though you are adding a step to the process it is worth it.

[Siebert Outdoors]

One other thing if your lead is an alloy with alot of tin or other bi product it will usually make pouring more difficult.  If you do have lead like this(wheel weights) find some pure lead and mix it in to help dilute the alloy more.