Adjusting A Baitcaster With Centrifugal Brakes

[cjam93]

Hey guys so I am getting a a Lews BB1 in the mail pretty soon. It will be the first baitcaster I have used that did not use magnetic brakes. I would like some advice on how to go about adjusting it.

 

With my magnetic braking baitcasters I always turn all the brakes off before I adjust the spool tension when changing baits. Do I need to go and turn each pin off in the BB1 before adjusting the tension?

 

Also I read that with centrifugal brakes you need to have them set so that the brake across from the one you are setting is also set to on, or have them set symmetrically. Is this also true for the BB1? I ask because it has the smart pin system and it seems to me that if you wanted to adjust the brakes and it had to be symmetrically then you would only be able to have the two brakes on, or the two brakes off. Can you have just one on and leave the one across from it off?

 

Thanks guys!

[TorqueConverter]

Hey guys so I am getting a a Lews BB1 in the mail pretty soon. It will be the first baitcaster I have used that did not use magnetic brakes. I would like some advice on how to go about adjusting it.

 

With my magnetic braking baitcasters I always turn all the brakes off before I adjust the spool tension when changing baits. Do I need to go and turn each pin off in the BB1 before adjusting the tension?

 

Also I read that with centrifugal brakes you need to have them set so that the brake across from the one you are setting is also set to on, or have them set symmetrically. Is this also true for the BB1? I ask because it has the smart pin system and it seems to me that if you wanted to adjust the brakes and it had to be symmetrically then you would only be able to have the two brakes on, or the two brakes off. Can you have just one on and leave the one across from it off?

 

Thanks guys!

 

Usually we set them up to our own idea of an ideal setting out of the box and then make small adjustments on the water (when changing baits) with the spool tension.  Centrifugal brakes are more often than not, a set-and-forget.

 

When setting a reel up fresh out of the box, I like to turn the centrifugal brakes off because some can be engaged from the factory, and then do the drop test with a 3/8 oz weight to adjust spool tension.  One spool tension is set I begin to turn centrifugal brakes on while loosing spool tension until the sweet spot is achieved.  This is what I do with an internally adjustable 6 pin brake.  With externally adjustable braking you're able to do some adjusting on the fly because it's not nearly as much of a hassle to adjust the brakes.

[hatrix]

I do not have that reel any more and forget how many I used with it but 1 or 2 pins on and you will be fine. All my Lews reels right now have 1 brake on and the mags are at like 1 or 0 and no tensions. With 2 brakes on you can basically cast whatever you want and never even thumb the spool. I like never change the brakes unless its some extraneous circumstance. As for opening it up and turning off all brakes then adding tension and changing brakes and on and on I mean I guess and I am sure plenty of people will do that or something similar but that seems silly to me. I will never even use any tension unless I 100% have to. Just don't cast so hard and you will still get the same result or better and with less effort. Also tension will wear down as you fish and you have to turn it up again. Does that mean I would start all over with no brakes and add tension then brakes and and less tension?... that seems terrible to me. If i am unsure about something I will work into and not start out trying for max distance it only takes a couple cats to get a feel for what you can do. If for some reason it does get out of hand in a bad way quickly just cut your losses and thumb the spool hard and stop it. Or when you know you can pull it out or d**n close thumb it decently and let it go so it evens out the speed and pulls out the loops.

 

It almost seems like I fish my reels different then most everyone one does but I know I am not alone. Everyone I fish with all set there stuff the same way. We all fish as loose as possible and instead of adding brakes somewhere just dont throw so hard. Brakes are always a last resort.  

[black94gt50]

My father has a bb1. If I'm not mistaken 2 of the pins are spring loaded and stay on at all times. I'd start off with no other brakes on and adjust from there.

The reel throws great, but it more aimed towards medium to heavy weight lures for sure. With really small square bills or other small plugs it can be a pain to throw. You definitely need to have your thumb in check.

Good choice in reel, and you will be amazed at how smooth the reel feels on e you get on the water with it.

[fishguy613]

the bb1 is a great crank reel, I've got mine on the squarebill rod. I keep two blue pins and one grey pin on, which gets great casting distance. if it's windy I'll apply more breaks. You don't need to set centrifugal breaks symmetrical

I use it with 3/8-5/8oz sbs

[cjam93]

Thanks guys!

[rippin-lips]

The reel will have 4 grey brake tabs and 2 blue ones. I don't know how proficient you are with a baitcaster so I'm purely giving you advice for a beginner. Start with 2 blue and 2 grey on. Which is how I believe it comes from the factory. Then you can turn more off as needed. I ran mine with just 2 grey ones on and it was perfect.

[cjam93]

The reel will have 4 grey brake tabs and 2 blue ones. I don't know how proficient you are with a baitcaster so I'm purely giving you advice for a beginner. Start with 2 blue and 2 grey on. Which is how I believe it comes from the factory. Then you can turn more off as needed. I ran mine with just 2 grey ones on and it was perfect.

 

Thanks for that! I saw on lews website that the 4 grey tabs are actually for reducing the amount of breaking applied. So am I thinking correctly that then if I engage the grey tab it should actually increase distance since it is reducing the breaks, but increase the chance of overruns and what not?

[rippin-lips]

Yes, you are basically correct. As the spool slows down, the amount of braking applied by the grey tabs will reduce. They'll be at their highest during the beginning of the cast and taper off. The blue ones stay on the whole time and don't taper off. I'd say you'll be safe with 2 grey but maybe just till you get used to it try 3 grey tabs. There's no need to open the reel and turn them off before setting your spool tension for different baits. They're spring loaded and not doing anything at all when you aren't casting. Unlike magnetic brakes where you have magnetic force being applied even when you aren't casting. As with any reel, the less brakes you use and spool tension the chance for overruns go up.

[cjam93]

Yes, you are basically correct. As the spool slows down, the amount of braking applied by the grey tabs will reduce. They'll be at their highest during the beginning of the cast and taper off. The blue ones stay on the whole time and don't taper off. I'd say you'll be safe with 2 grey but maybe just till you get used to it try 3 grey tabs. There's no need to open the reel and turn them off before setting your spool tension for different baits. They're spring loaded and not doing anything at all when you aren't casting. Unlike magnetic brakes where you have magnetic force being applied even when you aren't casting. As with any reel, the less brakes you use and spool tension the chance for overruns go up.

Ok awesome thank you! Im really excited to get the reel in and try it. 

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

No need to turn off centrifugal brakes when setting spool tension as the spool's not spinning fast enough to activate them. Mag brakes, if present,  should be off/lowest setting prior to setting spool tension.