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Posted

I've heard of using a swivel when fishing a fluke, and the most common flukes are probably Zoom flukes. However, I use almost exclusively paddle-tail flukes, like the Strike King Swim'n Caffeine Shad......do I need to use a swivel for paddle-tails too?

 

Of course the purpose of the swivel to prevent line twist?

Posted

since going with swivels .. have had no problem with line twist whatsoever.. flukes work fine for me with swivels in my line

  • Super User
Posted

I found a small Spro swivel rated for #35 lbs. to about ideal installed up about 18 inches from the Fluke .

  • Super User
Posted

Just a little food for thought: if you're getting a lot of line twist while fluke fishing, you either have it rigged crooked, the hook is too small or you're fishing it too fast.

  • Like 3
Posted

Just a little food for thought: if you're getting a lot of line twist while fluke fishing, you either have it rigged crooked, the hook is too small or you're fishing it too fast.

 

I fish the fluke weightless. I am pretty attentive to making sure the hook enters/exits the body in a straight line (thanks bassresource) and I use a decent sized hook....a 3/0 offset worm hook The only part I could see is fishing it fast. When it's weightless, I fish it a lot like a jerkbait, with pauses in the retrieve. Maybe I'm doing it too fast, but my problem persists even when I fish it almost as slow as a senko. When I use this presentation, then take up the slack line as I'm working the fluke it wraps it on the spool (spinning reel) with uneven amounts of tension. Some of the line is tensioned by reeling with the weight of the fluke providing tension, some has no tension since I'm reeling slack line. This causes me to get tangles due to the inconsistency of the line tension on the spool. I'm hoping that some of it can be alleviated with a swivel somehow because I'm tangling line about every 5-7 casts. The spool's not overfilled, and I am careful to close the bail by hand before the lure hits the water.

 

Basically every tip that can be given on preventing spinning line twist I've applied, but I still get tangles with this presentation - however I've been killing it lately with flukes, so I don't want to abandon it.

 

I'm hoping the swivel will help some, if not completely.

 

Any ideas you can throw my way?

  • Super User
Posted

I think your hook is too small. I use a 4/0 or 5/0 EWG hook. The larger belly of the hook, by remaining under the body of the bait, acts as a keel. I use the 4/0 hook for slow lift and drop, and a 5/0 for faster, jerkbait  type retrieves.

 

As far as line problems with spinning gear, I'm going to be no help to you. I quit fishing a fluke on spinning tackle for that very reason.

  • Like 3
Posted

I think your hook is too small. I use a 4/0 or 5/0 EWG hook. The larger belly of the hook, by remaining under the body of the bait, acts as a keel. I use the 4/0 hook for slow lift and drop, and a 5/0 for faster, jerkbait  type retrieves.

 

As far as line problems with spinning gear, I'm going to be no help to you. I quit fishing a fluke on spinning tackle for that very reason.

 

I agree I think depending on the size of the fluke he is using the hook is too small, I too usually stick with a 4/0 or 5/0 EWG.

Posted

I will have to try a bigger hook. But I'm considering switching to just casting gear too. I just like to wade and go for smallmouth in a river near here, I'm not too excited about using casting gear for it. I just like a spinning reel a bit better for the river. But hey, I may just do it with the success I'm having with flukes this year.

  • Super User
Posted

I use a 4/0 worm hook, with or without the swivel the speed is what is going to cause the fluke to roll over, I prefer a moderate to slower presentation.  I am not working the bait with the reel it merely takes up the slack, the movement to the bait is done with my arm and wrist.  The key I believe is getting my cadence or rhythm down, I see no variance in tension on my spinning reels.

Posted

A fluke is 1 of my favorite baits to fish.  I fish it very similar to how you do, just like a jerk bait.  Reel, jerk, jerk, pause.  I fish it on spinning tackle and have not had any issued with my line twisting.  I have my reel spooled with braid.  Tie the braid to a swivel, then about a 2ft leader of mono to the hook.  My typical setup is a pearl white zoom fluke rigged weightless on a red 4/0 Gamakatsu offset EWG worm hook.  Its very random as far as directions it goes in the water, but it RARELY turns upside down or on its side while I'm reeling it in, no matter how fast or slow. 

 

Like I said, I never have any issues with line twist. 

 

Good luck!

 

- Dale

  • Like 1
Posted

When you are reeling in slack line, point your index finger down by the spool and let the line bounce off your finger as you are reeling.  This will give the line some tension as it's getting wound on the spool.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Line twist is going to happen whether or not a swivel is used on spinning gear.  As line is being reeled in the "wrapping" around the spool is what causes twist.  That said certain lure types that can turn over will amplify the twist, most noticeable with mono and copoly lines.  When I do use those line types I make a point trolling my line out before my outing, if possible.

  • Super User
Posted

I don't see that a swivel would hurt anything, I'd most likely go with a ball  bearing swivel.  The idea of dragging all the line out behind your boat to remove twist is a good one and that's what I do every so often.  Also, as has been mentioned by others on this topic, braid seems to reduce line twist somewhat and I"ve found that to be true, for the most part.   Any line twist I've incurred with braid can be attributed to operator error and not a gear issue.

Posted

I added a swivel, a small barrel swivel, about 22 inches long, and it made all the difference.

 

I fished about 2 hours today, and had zero tangles.

 

Glad I did this, now I hope to have no more hassles!

Posted

I fish paddle tails on a jig head or weighted hook which eliminates most of the spinning issues you get with an unweighted fluke fished like a jerk bait.

 

Using those two methods totally changes the action and dynamics of the bait.

Posted

Just a little food for thought: if you're getting a lot of line twist while fluke fishing, you either have it rigged crooked, the hook is too small or you're fishing it too fast.

Thats probably true. Also I think you said something about a post I made about a new Trion 30 getting crazy wind knots. That if the ID  of the first eye is greater then half the  spools OD that will happen. I had never heard or even knew of that. The place I buy a lot of stuff from traded it out for me to the next size up. Voila problem solved. That reel has never had a knot since. I even had them ut the braid that I took off back on the bigger reel and it was a little twisted but brand new.

 

I pretty much always fish it with a swivel generally any ways. Really some where right now there is 2 rigged up I am sure from what ever the last time I used them was. I just tie the swivel on and it can be ready to go if it is not messed up. Some spinning reels always have a swivel on no matter what it is. Thats my little piece of leader from the braid and I will just use a swivel.

  • Super User
Posted

For paddle tail Flukes - they are retrieved more like a swim bait at a moderate clip . In this case the advice to use a 4/0 ~ 5/0 EWG hook will help it keel and stay straight .

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