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Posted

Suffix 832 40#

Power Pro SS 50# I got this for free the other day so I spooled it up. I am not sure about it. I think I like normal PP better.

Izorline Platinum 15#

Yo-Zuri Hybrid 15#

Yo-Zuri Hybrid 12#

Yo-Zuri Hybrid 30# !!! Bought it on accident and just put it on swimbait reel to try it. 

Suffix Seige 20#

Suffix Elite 8#

P-Line CXX 20#

Power Pro 20# and 30#

 

I think that might be it. I am probably forgetting something.

Really I would like to just change every non braid reel to CXX of different sizes. It has great sensitivity and very little stretch. They memory can get pretty crazy though but that is the price you pay for such a great line. I need to just start buying the 3k spools so I can respool all the time :P

Posted

All my spinning reels and one baitcaster have Sufix Elite mono except for one or two that have Stren mono, all in either clear, lo-vis green, hi-vis yellow, and one in hi-vis clear blue. I had fluorocarbon on my new stradic but after a few weeks I ripped it off the reel and put on Sufix Elite mono.  I'm into kayak and bank fishing and I want all my reels and line to be multi purpose and I feel mono is the ultimate multi lure line out there. Anyway, I really love that Sufix Elite mono.

Posted

Spooled up some Sunline Defier Armillo and used it for a full day. Hands down the best non fluorocarbon/braided line I've ever used. Casts and handles like an absolute dream. Not to stretchy, and the dark smoke color is super nice. Beyond impressed.

  • Super User
Posted

Yo-Zuri.  Until it proves me wrong.  I decided this year that hybrid is all I need....for now.  I spent some time with P-Line...mainly because the rebates earlier this year made it nearly free.   It has been pretty good, but not quite as good as Yo-Zuri.  P-Line seems to have a little more memory and slightly more prone to kinking/breaking on the reel.  All in all, however, I am very comfortable simplifying my line inventory.

Posted

I'm pretty sure I know the problem, but can someone else chime in on this:

 

I have some Berkley 10# Fluoro on my spinner/swim rod. (I know some use heavier around structure, but I fish it open water most of the time). Anyways, I tied a palomar knot and it broke literally every time I pulled tight. I spit on it, etc. Still snapped. I finally got it tied right (or so I thought) and my first hook set, I snapped the line.  What gives?! Is it bad line? Does line go bad over the course of one summer (I don't use it often, maybe once a week if that). I've noticed that I have problems w/ the same line whenever I tie an improved cinch knot too.  All my other lines (Stren 17# mono and Seagar 20# fluoro) work just fine w/ the same knots. Should I dump the 10# and get something else? Or am I doing something completely wrong when I tie the knots?

  • Global Moderator
Posted

Braid--Power Pro

Floro--Invisex on B/C, Tatsu on Spinning

Co Poly--Yo Zuri

Mike

Posted

I've been using McCoy xtra clear.  My favorite overall line atm.  Tremendous value.  A more supple yozuri hybrid (another great line.)

Posted

I'm pretty sure I know the problem, but can someone else chime in on this:

I have some Berkley 10# Fluoro on my spinner/swim rod. (I know some use heavier around structure, but I fish it open water most of the time). Anyways, I tied a palomar knot and it broke literally every time I pulled tight. I spit on it, etc. Still snapped. I finally got it tied right (or so I thought) and my first hook set, I snapped the line. What gives?! Is it bad line? Does line go bad over the course of one summer (I don't use it often, maybe once a week if that). I've noticed that I have problems w/ the same line whenever I tie an improved cinch knot too. All my other lines (Stren 17# mono and Seagar 20# fluoro) work just fine w/ the same knots. Should I dump the 10# and get something else? Or am I doing something completely wrong when I tie the knots?

I don't think you can really use a palomar on fluoro. It crosses it self all up and makes the knot break. I know sdj is very good for fluoro and I am sure improved clinch would work also.

  • Super User
Posted

I'm pretty sure I know the problem, but can someone else chime in on this:

 

I have some Berkley 10# Fluoro on my spinner/swim rod. (I know some use heavier around structure, but I fish it open water most of the time). Anyways, I tied a palomar knot and it broke literally every time I pulled tight. I spit on it, etc. Still snapped. I finally got it tied right (or so I thought) and my first hook set, I snapped the line.  What gives?! Is it bad line? Does line go bad over the course of one summer (I don't use it often, maybe once a week if that). I've noticed that I have problems w/ the same line whenever I tie an improved cinch knot too.  All my other lines (Stren 17# mono and Seagar 20# fluoro) work just fine w/ the same knots. Should I dump the 10# and get something else? Or am I doing something completely wrong when I tie the knots?

When you tie it and cinch it down, does the tag end or main line look kind of like a curly cue? If it does there's too much heat in the knot meaning your cinching it down to fast and/or it's not lubricated enough. Honestly though, it sounds like you may have just got a bad spool of it as even a poorly tied palomar should give you more strength than that.

 

I don't think you can really use a palomar on fluoro. It crosses it self all up and makes the knot break. I know sdj is very good for fluoro and I am sure improved clinch would work also.

You can successfully tie a palomar knot with fluoro. I do all the time and haven't had any issues with it. I use all the way down to 6lb test too and haven't had an issue with break-offs.

 

 

In response to OP:

I keep it simple.

Fluorocarbon = Trilene 100% for baitcasters 100% XL for spinning

Mono = Trilene XT for baitcasters and XL for spinning

Braid = haven't settled on one yet

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