Guest zardon Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Well I know there are some very good builders on this site so I figured I would post this question/problem here. First off, I am not nearly as experienced as you guys are. I just got started last year when I decided to redo a few of my rods and one thing led to another and I am now building from scratch for myself. I decided I wanted to build a spinning rod for light jigs/tubes. I was going to do a split grip with the one next to the reel seat the same height as the seat itself. I am using a 16mm Fuji seat and the rod diameter of .465. It didn't let much cork at all to get to the height of the seat for the diameter of the hole. I got it reamed out and everything was good. Glued it on, then mounted the seat and all was well. Then I decided to do a little touching up to the cork and when I did, i somehow tore it or whatever and it is now in 2 pieces and basically ruined. I know I should have left it thicker as it is was very thin. Now for the dilemma is that I already got the seat glued on with U40 Rod bond, but it has no cork for behind the reel seat. Now it doesn't look to bad but I am worried about it functionality wise. Luckily I did have a winding check on the cork and was able to salvage that and use it to hide the bushing for the seat. I have though about turning another grip, splitting it down the middle and then gluing it back together on the rod at the same time, but am afraid of what the final result might look like. Is there anything that can be done, or is it basically a rod with no grip behind the reel seat now? Also is there anyway to get the U40 rod bond unglued from the rod itself? Its mounted on a graphite bushing if that makes any difference. Here is a pic of it with the Winding check behind the seat. Doesn't look to bad but not quite what I wanted. Quote
Super User Alpster Posted December 14, 2006 Super User Posted December 14, 2006 Is there anything that can be done, or is it basically a rod with no grip behind the reel seat now? This might work for you. I just built a thread wrap and finished it to dress the back of the reel seat. You don't have to take anything apart to do this. I had installed a rubber hosel and wrapped up to it, but you could do the same with the winding check. http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j42/alpster/rod%20building/noodle%20rod/fly002.jpg Just an idea that would be easy to do. There are more pics of this rod at this thread. http://www.bassresource.com/bass_fishing_forums/YaBB.pl?num=1165365814 Ronnie Quote
Super User flechero Posted December 14, 2006 Super User Posted December 14, 2006 Sorry to hear it. Be sure to determine the cause of failure (if you haven't already) beofre making a new one. Just having a thin grip isn't a good reason in my mind for a failure like you had... I would be more inclined to speculate that it wasn't reamed enough, which left excessive pressure on the thin walled cork. Anyway, you get the point, know the cause and fix that before you risk a second failure. You can turn a new one and split it, to install. If you are very careful and use a new razor blade to cut it (and hold a shallow angle when cutting) I think you'll be able to make a near invisible repair/install. The trick will be in keeping good uniform pressure on it while the epoxy cures. I would use something like a theraband wrap for a "clamp" as it will increase tension with each wrap and you can get it lined up before applying final pressure. (and it won't stick to the epoxy) Don't apply too much epoxy and know you'll have to lightly sand a little epoxy that seeps out of the seams. You may also need to split a winding check for the front, because it will be tough to make a perfect fit on the ream job before you split it. Another thought... I would slide the grip over a wooden dowel when you cut it... giving something to back the cork so you don't get a "blow out" of cork. Good luck! If any of this is more confusing than helpful, feel free to PM for clarification. Quote
Guest zardon Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Thanks Alpster. So you think it would be ok to just maybe add like a decrotive butt wrap up to the winding check and call it quits? The pic I included had the winding check on it already. It wasnt a very big one as it wasnt intended to be used like this, but so far thats about all I can come up with too. Short of somehow getting the real seat back off which i am not even sure how to go about since its on there with U40 Rod Bond. Here is a pic of the butt the section as it sits on the wrapper right now. Quote
Guest zardon Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Sorry to hear it. Be sure to determine the cause of failure (if you haven't already) beofre making a new one. Just having a thin grip isn't a good reason in my mind for a failure like you had... I would be more inclined to speculate that it wasn't reamed enough, which left excessive pressure on the thin walled cork. Anyway, you get the point, know the cause and fix that before you risk a second failure.You can turn a new one and split it, to install. If you are very careful and use a new razor blade to cut it (and hold a shallow angle when cutting) I think you'll be able to make a near invisible repair/install. The trick will be in keeping good uniform pressure on it while the epoxy cures. I would use something like a theraband wrap for a "clamp" as it will increase tension with each wrap and you can get it lined up before applying final pressure. (and it won't stick to the epoxy) Don't apply too much epoxy and know you'll have to lightly sand a little epoxy that seeps out of the seams. You may also need to split a winding check for the front, because it will be tough to make a perfect fit on the ream job before you split it. Another thought... I would slide the grip over a wooden dowel when you cut it... giving something to back the cork so you don't get a "blow out" of cork. Good luck! If any of this is more confusing than helpful, feel free to PM for clarification. Thanks bud. Yeah that made alot of sense. I think it might have been a little snug for all the thicker the grip was. Thats a good point. Only thing I dont quite understand is the "theraband" wrap. What exactly is that? Yeah I am sure this isnt going to be an easy fix. I will probably try and turn another one in the morning, slice it like you said then see how that goes before I deem it to just finsish it the way it is. Thanks alot guys. Quote
Super User Alpster Posted December 14, 2006 Super User Posted December 14, 2006 Thanks Alpster. So you think it would be ok to just maybe add like a decrotive butt wrap up to the winding check and call it quits? I would avoid trying to remove the reel seat if I could. It's doable but to heat the epoxy enough to loosen it, you risk damage to the blank. I would make the butt wrap and get an idea of what it looks like. If you like the look then apply the finish and go with it. If it looks like crap, then I would go with fletchero's advice and carefully split the cork. I finished a fly rod yesterday and had it looking just right. When I pulled it out of the dryer I got my big thumb on the ferrule wrap and fixed it pretty good. Don't you just love do overs. Ronnie Quote
Guest zardon Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Wow thats some tough luck there too Alpster. Atleast ya got it fixed up ok. Yeah do overs are so fun ;D Quote
Super User flechero Posted December 14, 2006 Super User Posted December 14, 2006 Only thing I dont quite understand is the "theraband" wrap. What exactly is that? sort of a wide rubber band-like material... you can get it from any orthopedic Dr. It is great stuff, used it for rehab on my shoulder then for bow & rod building stuff. Quote
Guest DavidGreen Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Happy Holidays! Zardon, Since your using a 16mm tubular seat. Why not just place a 1/2" thick comfort button there.. Tight Wraps!! Quote
Guest zardon Posted December 14, 2006 Posted December 14, 2006 Happy Holidays! Zardon, Since your using a 16mm tubular seat. Why not just place a 1/2" thick comfort button there.. Tight Wraps!! Not sure what you mean by the comfort button, but I think I might try making a epoxy ramp for it tonight. Quote
Guest zardon Posted December 19, 2006 Posted December 19, 2006 Thanks for all the help and suggestions guys. In the end I opted for a epoxy ramp. It wasn't nearly as hard as I thought it was going to be, and actually went pretty well. Except the ramp wound up being a little longer than I wanted. But in the end it looks like this was the way it was intended to be built and not by accident ;D Tommy Quote
Super User Alpster Posted December 19, 2006 Super User Posted December 19, 2006 Good job Tommy! It looks first class. Thanks for posting the results. Ronnie Quote
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