Help With Drag On Baitcaster??

[Toallhisdoom]

So I got my first baitcaster.

AbuGarcia black max reel with vengance rod combo.

 

I put 12lb mono on to start, then put 50lb spiderwire braid on to finish it up.

 

So I see the drag knob on the side of the reel. But it does not seem to do much. But then there is a star like knob near the handle that seems to tighten up drag.

 

Why would there be 2 drag knobs? 

 

An I missing something here??

 

Thanks!

[Toallhisdoom]

OK! So drag star* is for drag! got it.

 

And the dial opposite is the brake system? 

 

Ok well now..... What is the knob on the reel behind the drag star then?? this seems like it is a part of the brake system as well?? 

[aavery2]

Spool tension,  did your reel come with instructions?

[Toallhisdoom]

It did not. I am googling how to set up a baitcaster now. 

 

http://www.***/education/baitcaster-setup-101.html

 

Ok so I now know how to set it up.

 

The cast control knob keeps it from birdsnesting on a cast it seems. What does the brake system do? Seems like the cast control knob does what I THOUGHT the brake system did...

[aavery2]

They work together to help control spool speed.

[Fisher-O-men]

You do not want to over-use the spool tension knob for backlash control.  Putting too much tension could shorten the life of the bearings.  Just tighten it a little past where the side to side movement of the spool stops.

[HardcoreBassin]

OK so there are 3 knobs for settings on your reel.  The one attached to the actual handle is the drag.  The knob on that side of the reel is, as aavery2 said, is the spool tensioner.  The dial on the opposite side of the reel, which probably has "more-less" or "+ / -" or something along those lines is your brake system. 

 

Set the drag however you want. 

 

The spool tensioner should be set for each lure you put on the rod, or you will have a hell of a time casting.  I usually start the tensioner tight.  Then I hold the rod out, with the lure tied on, and click open the bail.  Take your finger off the bail and "let the lure fall."  You'll notice that the lure probably isnt falling if you tightened the spool tensioner.  Loosen the tensioner until your bait just starts to fall.  You can fidget with that as you get better at casting with it, but keep it at around that "just tight enough" setting until you get the hand of casting.

 

The brake system is something you need to play with as well.  Just know, that the lower you go on the brake setting, the more pressure you need to apply with your thumb as youre casting.  If you don't apply enough pressure, you'll wind up with a nasty nest in your reel, and that is NO fun.  Buy a practice plug and go take some casts in the street or yard with it until you get the hang of it.  Don't assume that you can test it for the first time while fishing.  You'll more than likely wind up with some nests the first few times you use it, and you don't want that to happen while you're on the water.  Its an easy way to ruin a day.

 

I hope that helps a bit!  Good luck with the new reel!

 

-Dale

[aavery2]

You do not want to over-use the spool tension knob for backlash control.  Putting too much tension could shorten the life of the bearings.

Interesting, how so?

[rippin-lips]

At the top of this page is a sticky on how to setup a baitcaster. I'd take a look at it.

[Fisher-O-men]

Interesting, how so?

It is much like tightening the hub nut on a wheel bearing.  You want the wheel to be free with no slop.  If you were to get it so tight that it slowed down the wheel, you would wear out the bearing.

[John G]

It is much like tightening the hub nut on a wheel bearing. You want the wheel to be free with no slop. If you were to get it so tight that it slowed down the wheel, you would wear out the bearing.

The cast control cap on a baitcaster is making contact with the end of the spool and it's not touching the bearing.

[aavery2]

It is much like tightening the hub nut on a wheel bearing.  You want the wheel to be free with no slop.  If you were to get it so tight that it slowed down the wheel, you would wear out the bearing.

I understand your example of the wheel bearing.  Fishing reels operate a little differently when you tighten the spool tension cap it pushes a shaft through the center of the bearings and creates  little to no axial pressure on the bearing itself. The pressure is on both ends of the shaft.

 

You are correct with your warning of over tightening the spool tension knob, there are other parts that can be damaged from this.  The spool tension discs can be scored and dimpled which over  a period of time will have a negative effect on casting distance and smooth operation.

[Fisher-O-men]

The cast control cap on a baitcaster is making contact with the end of the spool and it's not touching the bearing.

Correct, but as you tighten it, pressure is put on the bearing.  That is why the spool slows down.

[Toallhisdoom]

Well, went out this morning and tried it out. Did not have a good time. Got back to my car. Cut off the braid down to the mono. Then tried casting with just the 12lb mono in the parking lot and it worked wonderfully. Think I am just going to stick with the 12lb mono seems to work great on the few casts I did in the parking lot! 

 

Thanks for all the info everyone! And I will make sure to not over tighten the spool tension knob

[rippin-lips]

Cutting the braid down to the mono could be why you didn't have troubles. Less line on the spool results in making it harder to backlash.

[Fisher-O-men]

I understand your example of the wheel bearing.  Fishing reels operate a little differently when you tighten the spool tension cap it pushes a shaft through the center of the bearings and creates  little to no axial pressure on the bearing itself. The pressure is on both ends of the shaft.

 

You are correct with your warning of over tightening the spool tension knob, there are other parts that can be damaged from this.  The spool tension discs can be scored and dimpled which over  a period of time will have a negative effect on casting distance and smooth operation.

I will respectfully concede defeat on this subject.  I was likely working off of old info and ignorance of new technology.  Before any kind of brakes or anti backlash devices, guys were using the tension knob in the place of a well-educated thumb.  The warning went out that this was not what the tension cap was designed for.  Sorry for the confusion, even if it was only on my part.

[aavery2]

I will respectfully concede defeat on this subject.  I was likely working off of old info and ignorance of new technology.  Before any kind of brakes or anti backlash devices, guys were using the tension knob in the place of a well-educated thumb.  The warning went out that this was not what the tension cap was designed for.  Sorry for the confusion, even if it was only on my part.

I was not trying to call you out, thought maybe you knew something I didn't and I had a chance to learn something.  That is what makes a place like this great, if we all share what we know, it makes us all a little more knowledgeable.

[Gabriel052]

Seems like everyone is giving really good advice.. Also, check out YouTube Dude. There are at least 100 videos on how to do this. The almighty glenn has a really good one too. Remember, practice makes perfect with these things. It may take a few trips before you feel comfortable with your reel

[new2BC4bass]

Well, went out this morning and tried it out. Did not have a good time. Got back to my car. Cut off the braid down to the mono. Then tried casting with just the 12lb mono in the parking lot and it worked wonderfully. Think I am just going to stick with the 12lb mono seems to work great on the few casts I did in the parking lot! 

 

Thanks for all the info everyone! And I will make sure to not over tighten the spool tension knob

 

I don't know why you are having a problem with 50# braid.  Reel should cast great with that line.  I personally use a lot more mono than braid.  Sufix Siege handles great.  I use a lot of 12# and 8# depending on rod power.  A full spool should yield longer casting distance and higher IPT, but the con is that it can be harder for a beginner to control a full spool.  Every instruction pamphlet I've read from the manufacturer states to only fill within 1/16 or 1/8 inch.....amount varying from manufacturer to manufacturer.

 

Casting a baitcast reel is not the same as casting a spinning reel.  You can't snap the baitcast reel.  Smooth is the name of the game.  Use a side arm roll cast to learn on.  You will thank me later.  The roll cast keeps a constant load on the rod tip which helps a lot to eliminate backlashes.  Don't try for the other side of the lake when learning.

[Toallhisdoom]

Went fishing last night. Baitcaster worked great! Only had 1 backlash issue when I tried to cast overhand and pretty hard. 

 

Stuck with the side cast after that and it worked great! 

 

Now just need to work on my technique with this spro frog. Having issues with getting it to walk consistently.

[aavery2]

Went fishing last night. Baitcaster worked great! Only had 1 backlash issue when I tried to cast overhand and pretty hard. 

 

Stuck with the side cast after that and it worked great! 

 

Now just need to work on my technique with this spro frog. Having issues with getting it to walk consistently.

Sounds like you got it figured out, congrats.   A tip on the frog, it is all about slack line management, leave more slack in the line than you are use to when walking a frog.

[Toallhisdoom]

Sounds like you got it figured out, congrats.   A tip on the frog, it is all about slack line management, leave more slack in the line than you are use to when walking a frog.

 

Yea I need to work on it! Its like once you find that sweet spot its great! Usually there is not enough slack and it just goes straight and does not "walk". But then I try and let more slack and then it barley moves. haha

 

Just think I need to keep practicing. 

 

First day using the frog cast ontop of the Lilly pads, saw the pads behind it come up, like a wake following it! Was awesome to see that! Fish hit behind the frog tho and did not get hooked. But was still pretty cool to watch! 

[aavery2]

Yea I need to work on it! Its like once you find that sweet spot its great! Usually there is not enough slack and it just goes straight and does not "walk". But then I try and let more slack and then it barley moves. haha

 

Just think I need to keep practicing. 

 

First day using the frog cast ontop of the Lilly pads, saw the pads behind it come up, like a wake following it! Was awesome to see that! Fish hit behind the frog tho and did not get hooked. But was still pretty cool to watch! 

Frog fishing is very exciting, one of the most enjoyable ways to fish in my opinion.  Once you find that rhythm for the frog it becomes like riding a bike, hard at first but something that is very natural after that.   Keep working at it, I guarantee it will payoff for you. 

 

Almost forgot to ask, are you using the braid or mono?

[Toallhisdoom]

Frog fishing is very exciting, one of the most enjoyable ways to fish in my opinion.  Once you find that rhythm for the frog it becomes like riding a bike, hard at first but something that is very natural after that.   Keep working at it, I guarantee it will payoff for you. 

 

Almost forgot to ask, are you using the braid or mono?

Yea I usually fish with senko worms. But the frogs are A LOT more exciting! Even without catching fish yet, have had multiple hits but the fish seem to miss it a lot. Just awesome to watch them nail the top water! 

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

You stripped the braid?

How full is your spool now?

Reducing line on the spool will decrease backlashes but will also decrease distance.

Just an idea as to what may have happened...

Josh