Drag Setting When Using Braid

[papajoe222]

Until recently, I didn't give much thought to how I set the drag on my reels spooled with braid.  After a number of lost fish, I'm taking another look at how and when I should set it differenly.  My basic setting gives me plenty of hook setting power without slippage and enough slippage to give line to a strong fish.  I set it a little lighter for cranks and in-line spinners and a little heavier for swimbaits and frogs.  I was blaming my rod choice for the losses, but the fish I was loosing had the baits well into their mouths.  I can always go to a lighter setting and thumb the reel when needed, but if I don't remember to do so, I put the fish at the advantage .

So what are your ideas on either a specific style lure, cover,  or rod when it comes to deciding how to set your drag?

[Loop_Dad]

I set (or try to set)  it so that when I set hook hard on plastic, I hear just a bit of drag slipping. But I'm like you I hadn't thought too much about it, so I love to hear from others as well.

 

Just this weekend, I failed to set the drag correctly and it was actually locked down (mistake #1). A fish bit my bait close to the boat and in few seconds it was gone. My hook was bent open. The hook was light wired one (mistake #2) It was a good size fish.

[SirSnookalot]

Conventional wisdom says to set the drag 1/4-1/3 mono diameter equivalent.  First off I want my drag tight enough so I get no slippage while casting.  I use 3 sizes 10-15 and 20# braid whether I'm fishing open water or a weedy environment, fish size can go 1-50#.  My drag my be a click or 2 the tight side (not even close to be locked down) so I can set the hook better.  With species that hit a moving lure if the drag is too light they just carry the lure without good penetration, a little tighter is better IMO.  Once the fish is on the line most of the time I make an up or down drag adjustment, size and species come into play as different fish fight differently and pound for pound may pull out more drag.  I do it all by feel of the moment.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I set drags the same as if I were fishing mono. More to protect the rod and reel from unnecessary stress than anything else. I use sharp hooks and a moderate hook set and don't too often rip holes in fish's lips. 

[Hogsticker]

When Jerking or ripping hard baits, I set the drag 1 to 2 clicks above the point where the drag slips when doing so.

[roadwarrior]

About 2 1/2 pounds, but never more than 3.

[J Francho]

I consider the weakest point in the system, irrespective of line type. Think about the hook, hardware, terminal devices, line strength, knot, rod power, reel, etc. and set it it below that.

[WRB]

You should set your drag by running the line through all the guides on the rod you plan to use and use a accurate scale. I use 1/3 rd the line strength equal to mono for braid and actual line strength for FC or mono.

You need to know the rods load limits and never over power the rod with drag tension.

When you get the tension set with a scale, then pull out the line against the set drag to learn what 3, 4 or 5 lbs of drag feels like, then with experience you can do this fairly accurately by hand. If your drag feels jerky, not smooth, back off the tension and check your drag washers.

Always back off your drag at the end of each outing.....don't keep the drag tightened down when storing your reels, loosen them!

Mono line # test vs drag setting

6-8 use 2 to 2.5 lbs

10-12 use 3-3.5 lbs.

14-16 use 4-4.5 lbs

17-20 use 5- 5.5 lbs.

25 use 7-7.5 lbs.

Tom

PS, no scale...1 pint of water = 1 lb, you can use a plastic bag with 1pint plastic water bottles for dead weight drag setting. (500ML water = 1.13 lbs.) give this a try, it will surprise you how the rod loads up with weight. Most MH bass rods bottom out (max bend) at 3-3.5 lbs of dead weight or drag tension!

[CDobber]

Admittedly, I know nothing about drag.  I've always set it to lock down, and am seeing on this thread that it is a mistake.  What, exactly, is the negative effect on this....potential damage to the reel?  I've never had any issue with hooks straightening out or felt I was losing fish because of it, but obviously want to learn the error in my ways.  I have 2 Shimano Stradic 2500 FJ's that are used for bass.

[J Francho]

You can lock it down, and back reel, old school like.

[WRB]

Admittedly, I know nothing about drag.  I've always set it to lock down, and am seeing on this thread that it is a mistake.  What, exactly, is the negative effect on this....potential damage to the reel?  I've never had any issue with hooks straightening out or felt I was losing fish because of it, but obviously want to learn the error in my ways.  I have 2 Shimano Stradic 2500 FJ's that are used for bass.

Your spinning reels have superb drags that apply up to 15-16 lb of drag force and can be fully locked down meter to metal. My suggestion is use your drag and set it as suggested. Give the water bottle dead weight setting a try, it's worth the effort to know how your rod/ reel/ line performs as a system, may save you a bass of a life time from breaking something.

Tom

[Predator130]

When fishing frogs I don't have drag, I lock it down 100% and have no issues loosing fish after hookset.

[hatrix]

I use to be all braid all the time but have gotten away from that. I only have spinning reels with braid on them and a spare casting spool. I generally am a hard hook setter but my drags will slip a bit on hook sets. I generally set it that way to relieve some of the digging that happens and not pull out hooks. The only time it is tight is if I'm in thick grass or throwing a frog. I don't really want any slippage with those.

[SirSnookalot]

It's one thing to initially set the drag, depending on what is on the end of the line I do believe adjustments need to be made.  I run into fish all the time I could never slow down with 3# of drag, especially in current.  There are times when I just have to put pressure using my drag in order to land them.  I don't have a set script to follow, each fish can be a different size, fight differently, be a different species, my adjustments are made to fit the moment.

[Josh Smith]

I usually lock it down on the baitcasters when using only braid.  This gives around 15lbs of drag.

 

I let up off of it a bit when using leaders, but my leaders are usually in the 15# to 20# range with the MH rods.  The way I set it for leaders and used to set it for mono-only is pretty simple:  I'd grab the line, point the rod straight into the air, and pull.  I would back off the drag until the spool just started to move.

 

I have no idea what weight this was.

 

I do know this method served me very well when I hooked onto a buffalo by accident.  The drag let it run, but not too far, and I was able to fight it for the time needed to land it.  I did bend the hook a bit, but that was all.  The hook was very old (antique spinner) and frankly, I couldn't ask it to do any more than it did.  It held up as well as any modern hook I've seen of similar size.

 

Where I fish now, if a bass makes a long run I will lose it.  My "drag" is the rod.  I'll lower the rod to 30 degrees or so, letting the fish run, then raise the rod again to turn it and reel.  I find this method works well and lands the bass fast.

 

I've seen bass killed due to playing them out.  I'd really rather not play them any longer than I have to.

 

Josh

[CDobber]

I usually lock it down on the baitcasters when using only braid.  This gives around 15lbs of drag.

 

I let up off of it a bit when using leaders, but my leaders are usually in the 15# to 20# range with the MH rods.  The way I set it for leaders and used to set it for mono-only is pretty simple:  I'd grab the line, point the rod straight into the air, and pull.  I would back off the drag until the spool just started to move.

 

I have no idea what weight this was.

 

I do know this method served me very well when I hooked onto a buffalo by accident.  The drag let it run, but not too far, and I was able to fight it for the time needed to land it.  I did bend the hook a bit, but that was all.  The hook was very old (antique spinner) and frankly, I couldn't ask it to do any more than it did.  It held up as well as any modern hook I've seen of similar size.

 

Where I fish now, if a bass makes a long run I will lose it.  My "drag" is the rod.  I'll lower the rod to 30 degrees or so, letting the fish run, then raise the rod again to turn it and reel.  I find this method works well and lands the bass fast.

 

I've seen bass killed due to playing them out.  I'd really rather not play them any longer than I have to.

 

Josh