Soft Plastic Slipping And Tearing

[Preytorien]

I'm sure this question has been asked a million times, but I can't seem to find the kind of answer that's dumbed down for me......

 

I fish a great deal now with weightless flukes. I use them on an offset shank hook. I've also tried Owner TwistLock hooks. But darned if after about 2 fish the soft plastic is destroyed beyond use from the repeated slipping on the hook and tearing the eye and hook barb through the bait, even with Owner's....the spring just tears through the plastic too.

 

Anyone got any great tips on how to stop it?

 

I've tried a dab of super glue, but that still results in a tear, just now with a glob of glue and plastic stuck to an otherwise still-fine hook that I have to scrape off when I get home. Glue's been largely a giant fail for that reason.

 

 

[tcbass]

I don't usually fish them but my bro's gf does. Use a Gamakatsu Twistlock with no problems over the course of 3 trips and many fish.

 

 

I can't take credit for this.

 

 

 

[A-Jay]

Try using the weightless EWG hook of your choice and add a Parasite clip.

 

After using them, I'm a believer.

 

It's a very simple & inexpensive little device that directly addresses your problem.

 

http://parasiteweights.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30

 

There are a few video's on youtube showing the simple but effective rigging process.

 

Below is a pic of one on a Sluggo - and btw - they weight almost nothing and don't negatively affect your weightless presentation.

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

 

[Fishes in trees]

Hooks tear up baits.   If you want to catch fish, there aren't a lot of alternatives to hooks.  In my experience, the twist lock hooks preserve baits slightly better than regular worm hooks, but not a lot better.  Just a fact. hooks tear up baits.  Some alternatives include wacky rigging senkos using o-rings,  where the hook actually doesn't go through the bait.

 

Some guys who are big on fishing the ned rig use the elastech worms, that real stretchy plastic that lasts a long time.  I'm not a big fan of those worms and I don't fish the ned rig all that much.

 

Going through plastic baits and tearing them up is par for the course.

 

If you want to go truly old school, you might try using a gorge.  A gorge is an oblong piece of something, wood or metal, maybe half to 3/4 of an inch long.  The idea is that you tie your line to the gorge and then wrap your bait around or impale the gorge into the bait and throw it out to where you think there might be fish.  When you get bit, you wait a second or two and then as slowly and gently as possible, pull the fish in.  The idea is that the gorge gets stuck in their mouth/stomach and doesn't come out.  This is not a catch and release technique.  The process of removing the gorge once you've landed the fish kills it nearly every time

 

It does work.  When I first heard about this when I was in grade school I had to go try it out at the nearby creek, using my Johnson Laker rig.  It works on bullheads and sunfish for sure.  I've done it.

[A-Jay]

Hooks tear up baits.   If you want to catch fish, there aren't a lot of alternatives to hooks.  In my experience, the twist lock hooks preserve baits slightly better than regular worm hooks, but not a lot better.  Just a fact. hooks tear up baits.  Some alternatives include wacky rigging senkos using o-rings,  where the hook actually doesn't go through the bait.

 

Some guys who are big on fishing the ned rig use the elastech worms, that real stretchy plastic that lasts a long time.  I'm not a big fan of those worms and I don't fish the ned rig all that much.

 

Going through plastic baits and tearing them up is par for the course.

 

If you want to go truly old school, you might try using a gorge.  A gorge is an oblong piece of something, wood or metal, maybe half to 3/4 of an inch long.  The idea is that you tie your line to the gorge and then wrap your bait around or impale the gorge into the bait and throw it out to where you think there might be fish.  When you get bit, you wait a second or two and then as slowly and gently as possible, pull the fish in.  The idea is that the gorge gets stuck in their mouth/stomach and doesn't come out.  This is not a catch and release technique.  The process of removing the gorge once you've landed the fish kills it nearly every time

 

It does work.  When I first heard about this when I was in grade school I had to go try it out at the nearby creek, using my Johnson Laker rig.  It works on bullheads and sunfish for sure.  I've done it.

 

I think that's a the first for me - seeing anyone recommend that one.

 

A-Jay

[Preytorien]

Try using the weightless EWG hook of your choice and add a Parasite clip.

 

After using them, I'm a believer.

 

It's a very simple & inexpensive little device that directly addresses your problem.

 

http://parasiteweights.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30

 

There are a few video's on youtube showing the simple but effective rigging process.

 

Below is a pic of one on a Sluggo - and btw - they weight almost nothing and don't negatively affect your weightless presentation.

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

 

parasite clip on a sluggo.jpg

 

You're using a Sluggo, and I'm using a fluke rigged the exact same way.....

 

Watched a YouTube video of the parasite clips.....they look like they'd do the trick.

 

Just ordered some parasite clips in small and medium both.

[kikstand454]

If you can find them, the gamakatsu skipgap hook is the answer to your problem With the lure slipping down .

As to the lure tearing, unless you're using elaztech lures- getting two or three fish off a plastic is great! If I get two I'm happy! Espicially flukes and "moving lures" like it. They get hit harder it seems. ...

[A-Jay]

You're using a Sluggo, and I'm using a fluke rigged the exact same way.....

 

Watched a YouTube video of the parasite clips.....they look like they'd do the trick.

 

Just ordered some parasite clips in small and medium both.

 

The small & medium should cover all one's needs - the large size may be reserved for the bigger stuff like 10 inch plus worms & lizards and any thing with a rather sizable girth 

 

btw - I snagged the pic off the web - though I do use sluggo's - the pink one is reserved for the spring

 

 

A-Jay

[iceintheveins]

I was turned onto parasite clips a while back and use them with just about all my plastics. Doubles the amount of fish I can catch on one bait and they don't slip down the hook.

[Bankbeater]

If I am down to my last bait I will heat a knife and stick it into the fluke to melt it back together.  It doesn't make the bait brand new, but it will work for a few more fish.

[gulfcaptain]

Can't believe no one has suggested Mend-IT.  I use this on my flipping baits, as I might get a fish or two out of the SK Rodent's and other soft baits.  Take off the damaged bait, put it in another bag, and when you get back home or once it's dry, use some Mend-it and fix the bad spots. Makes them good as new.  Do this with Senko's and Ika's, works really well.  That $12 bottle has saved me probably $100 in baits as well as those $20+  swimbaits.And also a fan of the Skipgap hooks for my flukes.

[papajoe222]

I can't remember where I originally saw this tip, but if you thread one end of a barrel swivel on your line before attaching your hook, thread the front of your plastic on the hook and then thread the other end of the swivel over the barb and up the shank to the bend by the eye before you insert the hook point back into the plastic, your plastic won't slide down past the bend.  They're cheap, weigh next to nothing and you likely have some in your C-rig box that will fit over the barb of the hooks you use.

[Preytorien]

The small & medium should cover all one's needs - the large size may be reserved for the bigger stuff like 10 inch plus worms & lizards and any thing with a rather sizable girth 

 

btw - I snagged the pic off the web - though I do use sluggo's - the pink one is reserved for the spring

 

 

A-Jay

 

Been using these about 10 days now, and the soft plastics, in my case Caffeine Shad's, are lasting MUCH longer. Thanks for the help A-Jay.

 

 

I can't remember where I originally saw this tip, but if you thread one end of a barrel swivel on your line before attaching your hook, thread the front of your plastic on the hook and then thread the other end of the swivel over the barb and up the shank to the bend by the eye before you insert the hook point back into the plastic, your plastic won't slide down past the bend.  They're cheap, weigh next to nothing and you likely have some in your C-rig box that will fit over the barb of the hooks you use.

 

This is essentially what the parasite clips are. The thread on the hook so the front of the plastic can't slip down past the bend of the offset in the hook shank. Great idea, I'm sure before parasite clips were around this is what started the idea. Thanks for the tip!

[A-Jay]

Been using these about 10 days now, and the soft plastics, in my case Caffeine Shad's, are lasting MUCH longer. Thanks for the help A-Jay.

 

 

 

This is essentially what the parasite clips are. The thread on the hook so the front of the plastic can't slip down past the bend of the offset in the hook shank. Great idea, I'm sure before parasite clips were around this is what started the idea. Thanks for the tip!

 

Glad to hear it's working out for you.

 

A-Jay

[CWB]

Glenn posted a pretty slick video with a tip I will be using. Take a piece of stout mono and after rigging the bait on an EWG hook, locate the eye and push the mono through the plastic and the hook eye. Some people swear by screw lock hooks but I find after 1 hookset, the front of the bait is destroyed. Maybe I'm setting the hook too hard, if there is such a thing. The Parasite clip mentioned works too but the mono trick is muck less costly. Also take a look at Kumho Reaper Keeper hooks and Damiki D-Hold hooks. I've used these with good success. Nothing extra needed with these. I had a Rage Shellcraker rigged on a 5/0 1/8 oz. Damiki D-Hold hook and the front of the bait never was even slightly torn even after about 15 fish.

Still tied to my rod as I'm typing this. Top and back are pretty chewed up but still swims and is catching fish.

[tcbass]

Got a pic now.

 

 

 

 

 

[Comfortably Numb]

Ya Zoom baits are too soft. They are cheap though.

[Glenn]

Here's a cheap yet surprisingly effective solution:

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-videos/plastic-lures-hook.html

[hatrix]

If you are using a twistlock hook there is a little something I started doing with swimbaits just recently that helps a bit. Just take a little piece of paper clip and bend it then push it in the nose and in between 2 of the screw rings. You wont be able to pull your bait back because the paper clip is blocking it. It will even hold a bait with a blown out nose with no meat left to screw into. It works awesome for shadalicous that I have a ton of and never really use cause the nose is so garbage at holding a screwlock.

 

also Mend-It takes a while to setup and is kinda crappy. Pro Cure is much much much better.

[johnfl]

I've always used a toothpick through the eye of the hook push in snug and clip the toothpick at both ends and solves the problem of sliding down the shank and tearing as much. Been using this since 1995 works great

[TrippyJai]

Can't believe no one has suggested Mend-IT.  I use this on my flipping baits, as I might get a fish or two out of the SK Rodent's and other soft baits.  Take off the damaged bait, put it in another bag, and when you get back home or once it's dry, use some Mend-it and fix the bad spots. Makes them good as new.  Do this with Senko's and Ika's, works really well.  That $12 bottle has saved me probably $100 in baits as well as those $20+  swimbaits.And also a fan of the Skipgap hooks for my flukes.

 

x2

 

Get yourself a bottle of Mend-It. I fish mostly Gary Yamamoto's, they are expensive and are known to have an average of 1-2 fish. These plastics has gone through a few seasons and I keep on repairing them. They work fine.

 

[EvanT123]

It bound to happen. Reversing the way you rig them can get you a few more fish out of one.

Edit. Learned that from the master

[iceintheveins]

Try using the weightless EWG hook of your choice and add a Parasite clip.

 

After using them, I'm a believer.

 

It's a very simple & inexpensive little device that directly addresses your problem.

 

http://parasiteweights.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=30

 

There are a few video's on youtube showing the simple but effective rigging process.

 

Below is a pic of one on a Sluggo - and btw - they weight almost nothing and don't negatively affect your weightless presentation.

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

 

parasite clip on a sluggo.jpg

 

BINGO! Parasite clips and weights are the best of the best. I don't use any plastics without a clip.

[Mike L]

If you can find them, the gamakatsu skipgap hook is the answer to your problem With the lure slipping down .

As to the lure tearing, unless you're using elaztech lures- getting two or three fish off a plastic is great! If I get two I'm happy! Espicially flukes and "moving lures" like it. They get hit harder it seems. ...

Ditto..

Useing the skip gap style will cure your problem

Mike

[ClackerBuzz]

Just came across this old threat.  Parasite clips are amazing but a cheap alternative is a #4 or 5 barrel swivel (I prefer the closed/welded eyes as opposed to old school wire twist b/c the wire ends pick up more grass).  Also try threading a snip of rubber band above and below the fluke on hook shaft to keep them from sliding up or down. These techniques work with most soft plastics and save time/money.  This guy uses silicone tubing but rubber band works just as well.