Need help building a couple of rods

[Lucky1]

I am going to build a couple of rods myself and I have a few questions on components and applications.

* Are the Titanium framed SIC or Cermet guides the same? How are they different?

* How are spinning reel handles measured? How do I decide on what I want? Personal taste?

* How does a person know what sizes of guides they should be using? How many?

* If I want a split grip and have a 6'6" blank and I want a 6'9" does anyone recommend adding an extension to the butt or just live with the 6'6".

* Which way should the spine be orientated? I deal with Golf shafts so I know theres a big debate on this but give me an idea what it does with the spine on top and bottom please.

* I see prices on blanks are through the roof, Is there anyplace that sells them at cost to builders? How many do I need to order? I ask because I can get Loomis and St.croix finished rods with Titanium guides for a little more than a blank. Would I be better off buying the finished rod and redoing it?

* Finally how hard is hypalon to work with? I see them on many Japanese rods and I do like the looks. This is what I would like to do something like the Megabass or Evergreen Style of rods. Any help on these questions or if you know of some pictures that would help me on my mission would be great. I have looked at DG rod works and with out a doubt those are some of the finest rods I have come across. I have something to shoot for! lol Thank you, G

[roadwarrior]

Welcome aboard!

This is the section where you want to be. I'm sure some of our rod makers will help answer your questions.

[flechero]

Check out the thread- Newbies with rod building questions, it will help you out. It is above in the sticky threads. Also, look into getting the book by Tom Kirkman... it wil be the best $15 you spend in learnng rod building.

As far as the specific questions

* Are the Titanium framed SIC or Cermet guides the same? How are they different?

Both have Ti frames but the inserts are different material. gold cermets are supposed to be harder and smoother and also 3-5 times more expensive!|

* How are spinning reel handles measured? How do I decide on what I want? Personal taste?

personal preference

* How does a person know what sizes of guides they should be using? How many?

static distribution test will solve how many. sizes are dependant on several factors- line size, line path, rod class, weight, reel, and some others. But you can look at a similar factory rod for an idea of where to start.

* If I want a split grip and have a 6'6" blank and I want a 6'9" does anyone recommend adding an extension to the butt or just live with the 6'6".

I would suggest "living with" the 6'6" for now... you probably don't want to get into blank alterations on your first few rods. You can add to the butt, however it presents some other considerations like weight, strength, cork fit. Also it will change the rod's action... adding length to the butt will make a faster rod

* Which way should the spine be orientated? I deal with Golf shafts so I know theres a big debate on this but give me an idea what it does with the spine on top and bottom please.

I like the spine on top for casting and spinning rods. It's the way a blank likes to bend and when under load will torque less (or not at all). Some say it makes a difference, some say no difference. You can make an arguement for a fly rod to be reversed based on casting elements but I still go spine up since I an more concerned with fighting a fish than a super tight looped cast.

* I see prices on blanks are through the roof, Is there anyplace that sells them at cost to builders? How many do I need to order? I ask because I can get Loomis and St.croix finished rods with Titanium guides for a little more than a blank. Would I be better off buying the finished rod and redoing it?

It's like anything, if you have a tax id # and a business you can set up acounts and buy wholesale. FYI- LOomis and St.Croix blanks are about the most expensive blanks.... quality and brand power. There are some other brands that are less expensive and up to the same quality... depending on what kind of blank you want.

* Finally how hard is hypalon to work with? I see them on many Japanese rods and I do like the looks. This is what I would like to do something like the Megabass or Evergreen Style of rods. Any help on these questions or if you know of some pictures that would help me on my mission would be great.

I only use cork so I can't help w/ hypalon... I think it's about like EVA as far as shaping goes.

I have looked at DG rod works and with out a doubt those are some of the finest rods I have come across. I have something to shoot for!

Yes, He's very good!

Good luck!

-Keith

[Lucky1]

Thanks keith. I have the book you have stated and used it when redoing a lightning rod grip for my wife. She doesnt know any better. : I installed it from the butt end and it worked out perfectly. Very happy with the end result. Its my opinion that rod building isnt a science rather an art. With that In mind I feel many people have their opinions about what is actually art and what is not. Its all personal preferance. With a small amount of guidance on selecting blanks, I can make a fishing rod. With a little more knowledge, I feel I can build a rod and make it work well. With some tips I feel I can make a fishing rod anyone would be proud to own. I need help on the small stuff.

For example: If I want aluminum winding checks, will they always come in the exact sizes I need? If not, how do I get them to fit? Go smaller and ream them out? build them up with thread and slip them over? How are winding checks attached to the grips?

Another thing that comes to mind. Why do rod manufacturers put the adjustable end of the reel seat at the bottom? I hate it, Its always uncomfortable on my hand after a days use. I want to know how much I can cut off of threads in order to keep them at a minimum? As short as I want just so I can get my reel foot in there? Thanks for the help, and I love the site. Grant

[MickD]

A couple comments:

One dimension that I haven't heard mentioned much on spinning rods is the reel post to rod butt dimension.  I made  a 7 foot spinning rod recently using a 9 inch rear cork and a 4 inch reel seat.  This positioned the reel post about 12 inches from the butt.  When jigging the butt keeps hitting my body or biceps-the dimension is too long.  With that reel seat, I should have used only about a 7 inch rear cork.  It may also be possible to cut off the reel seat.  I haven't heard of that either, but the reel seats seem to be at least an inch longer than necessary.

Having said that, you also have to keep rod balance in mind.  My rod feels fine for balance with the reel I plan to use most of the time, so I'm not sure how it would feel with a shorter rear cork.

The main point is, consider that dimension when designing your rod.   The design of the reel seat will also be a factor in that dimension.

I would appreciate comments from some of you expert rod builders on this issue. thanks in advance