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Posted

I don't know if it's just me or if I'm doing something wrong but I have the absolute WORSt hookup ratio with EWG hooks. I use a 3/0-4/0 Gamakatsu EWG hook for big worms, Fat Ikas and Senkos sometimes. But for some reason I just can't get a hookset with them. For example, yesterday im in my yak casting a 6 inch Senko into about 15 feet of water. Bass were chasing bluegill and I would just let it sink weightless and get nailed. Fun way to catch fish. But with the EWG hook I got a bite, set the hook as hard as I could, fought the fish for about 30 seconds and then boom, line goes limp. I bring up my worm and the hook point didn't even penetrate the soft plastic. The fish was just holding onto the worm as it fought. What am I doing wrong? I use a spinning rod for soft plastics. 10lb test with a 4/0 EWG hook. When I use the normal offset shank worm hooks I stick em every time. With the EWG I even bend the point up and to the side a bit so it's not in line with the eye of the hook. But it doesn't help. Maybe I should just stick with offset shank worm hooks. But the dont work as well with Fat Ikas, one of my all time favorite baits. 

  • Super User
Posted

There are times when using spinning gear & 10 lb mono to fish Texas rigged soft plastics, getting a decent hook set could be problematic.  That gear may not possess the virtually strength to over come a good sized bass from simply holding onto your presentation (think crushers) and then releasing it without ever experiencing the business end of your bait.

 

I don't think your hook type is the villain here, I'm betting it's a the soft rod and the lighter line.

Consider kicking it all up a notch.   Going to a light braid & leader would change your latitude quite a bit.

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

There are times when using spinning gear & 10 lb mono to fish Texas rigged soft plastics, getting a decent hook set could be problematic.  That gear may not possess the virtually strength to over come a good sized bass from simply holding onto your presentation (think crushers) and then releasing it without ever experiencing the business end of your bait.

 

I don't think your hook type is the villain here, I'm betting it's a the soft rod and the lighter line.

Consider kicking it all up a notch.   Going to a light braid & leader would change your latitude quite a bit.

 

Good Luck

 

A-Jay

Agreed.

  • Like 1
Posted

My other spinning rod that always has a normal offset shank hook works perfectly. Same rod and reel, same pound test. Stick em every time. I guess those EWG hooks aren't really meant for lighter applications. I'll beef up the rod and line and see what happens. Thanks.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Again, by simply switching to a 10 - 15 lb braid main line, you'll definitely see a dramatic improvement in your ability to sink the steel.

 

 It's like getting another set up - if your reel came with two spools - spin one up with braid and try it.

 May not matter what hook you use then, as long as it matches the bait size.

 

A-Jay

Posted

I have better luck with EWG's when I set the hook with a sweep to the side instead of straight up.

I would also consider a 5/0 Owner Twistlock for your Ikas.

  • Super User
Posted

I use lightwire EWG on spinning gear a lot and get away with it.

 

Me too, but only when using small to perhaps mid-size Texas rigged plastics.

 

I'd never expect a lighter rod & reel with lighter mono to power any hook through a fat plastic bait consistently.

 

A-Jay

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

We all use braid but I've been using a 1/0 Offset Shank Worm EWG hook with great results. All types of hooksets. I think the braid helps as does the thin hook.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Me too, but only when using small to perhaps mid-size Texas rigged plastics.

I'd never expect a lighter rod & reel with lighter mono to power any hook through a fat plastic bait consistently.

A-Jay

Yes, like zoom speed craws, I throw those on spinning gear weightless with light wire EWG's

  • Super User
Posted

I can go down all the way to 6 lb test and have no problem hooking the fish.

 

Reason´s why you don´t hook the fish:

 

1.- You may not have the correct line to wire thickness ratio, hooks are manufactured depending upon line type, superline hooks are quite thick manufactured specifically to be used with braided line ( if you fish with monofilamentous lines chances are that the hook doesn´t penétrate the bait and the mouth ), regular wire hooks are the "Jack of all trades" but better for monofilamentous lines ( if you use a regular hook with braided line there´s a high chance that you bend open the hook ), light wire hooks are for light line applications.

 

2.- The bait is not rigged properly,

 

3.- The hook setting technique is improper

 

4.- The rod doesn´t have enough power to drive the hook.

 

5.- The bait is too thick or too hard so that will bring you to No2. Thick baits and/or hard baits require the bait to be rigged with the hook point very close to the outer edge of the bait.

Posted

I've been using the Gammy EWGs since the day I started fishing and never had issues with them. You don't really need a hard hook set, just reel the slack and set the hook. The key is to reeling and keep pressure so that if your hook set didn't pass the barb, it will during the fight. If you are using the heavier wire EWG, you'll need a stronger hook set.

Posted

One thing I have tried and don't see anyone else mentioning is that in a lot of applications I switch out the EWG and use a straight shank offset hook.

 

I kept having the same issue as you had, the hook barely came through the plastic and I didn't get a good hookset. So I switched (at the recommendation of another member here) to the straight shank.

 

Since the hook exits the body of the soft plastic at an angle it tends to punch through the bait and subsequently the fish's mouth a little better (in my opinion) than an EWG.

 

I will say though, if I am fishing very heavy cover/slop I'll go back to an EWG for it's better weedless properties albiet at the chance of losing a fish.

 

All of the above tips are relevant and are likely to help you to a solution, this is just my 2-cents worth. A guy here recommended it and my hookup with T-rigs and flukes has gone through the roof since making the switch.

 

One last thing, if you make the switch to straight shank, like any other application, make sure you use very good quality hooks. I use Trokars and Mustad KVD's and have great hook penetration.

  • Super User
Posted

May want to try the G-Lock's, I have a better hook up ratio on them as well as the bait staying more inline and not wanting to come up the shaft.  

  • Super User
Posted

I had that problem at first, then I realized it was bluegills biting back of the worm and hanging on for the ride when I set the hook.

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