Help Me Maximize My Casting Distance. Reel Upgrades, Bearings Etc?

[iabass8]

No, but I have the mojo 7'4" medium moderate glass crankbait rod and know what that's like, a medium heavy is going to be stiffer. Even my medium rod is happier with 1/2 than 3/8 and if the OP is new to baitcasting gear and looking for maximum distance then trying to throw 3/8 on a relatively stiff rod is not going to be as easy as it might be with a better balance between the bait and the rod.

That is literally the first time I've ever heard of the St. Croix MHM being referenced as a "stiff" rod...

Unless you are casting inside a garage or throwing your bait at a wall, there is absolutely not one instance a 3/8oz lipless crankbait cannot be thrown a "country mile" on the mojo MHM. (same goes for a kvd 1.5) The rod loads just fine into the blank to cast those baits.

[Tim Kelly]

So rather than just saying the guy needs to practice more, what would your helpful advice be for the OP? Do you think a heavier bait would throw less well or less distance?

[J Francho]

Get a super clean from a pro, and practice. Simple as that. No upgrades necessary. If you want to add performance, concentrate next on the drag. Then for smoothness, a light handle with bearing knobs. After all that, and you still want to soup it up, better bearings, and a light weight spool.

[iabass8]

So rather than just saying the guy needs to practice more, what would your helpful advice be for the OP? Do you think a heavier bait would throw less well or less distance?

Ive already suggested clean and flush the bearings earlier in the post..

Im only chiming in again because somebody with the glass mojo is suggesting(or even for some reason comparing) the graphite MHM crankbait rod is "too stiff" to throw a 3/8oz lipless crankbait or 1.5 which is asinine.

[Loop_Dad]

Your rod is too heavy for the 3/8 baits to work optimally. The cheapest and most effective way to cast further with your outfit is to cast slightly heavier baits. Heavier baits cast further anyway and with you rod the whole thing will be a lot easier. Baits in the 1/2 to 3/4 range are what you want. KVD 2.5 would be a good starting point.

 

+1.

 

Go buy a bait in that range and try. This should solve your problem. If not, report back and we can help.

 

Or go exchange the rod for M if the store let you so you can use the lures you already have.

[new2BC4bass]

I'm not trying to sell Super Tuning to a beginner baitcaster, but in reality the user of a Tuned reel actually often ends up using less breaking due to the decreased effort it takes to get the spool turning.

 

This is exactly what I stated in my post.  What I didn't mention was that all my tuned reels were Daiwas.  I have been told that the results of super tuning a Shimano is much more apparent than on a Daiwa.  I have to run my brakes on a Daiwa factory reel in the 8-10 area for most of the models I have.  The tuned reels run with 4 or 5 brakes on.  This is still more than most people run, but I never said I was an expert.    I also run very little spool tension.  Much less than what is always suggested as the right way to set up spool tension.

 

Today I got to spend about an hour with my Curado 51E that Mike super tuned and installed upgraded bearings and a Carbontex drag.  I have always had to run my Shimano reels with more bakes on than most people (normally at least 3).  Probably because I also run spool tension very light on these reels too.  I have finally worked my way down to 2 brakes on with the factory Shimano reels.  That is where I started with the tuned 51E.

 

Trying for maximum distance didn't gain a whole lot, and resulted in the line rising on the spool.  What I often refer to as "fluffing".  Backing off on the power of the cast resulted in a much better feeling cast and distances nearly the same.  I set the brake to one.  After 4-5 casts to get use to the lower brake setting, I was getting the same distance as a hard cast with 2 brakes on, but with much less effort.  This did require paying attention to my casting stroke to keep the line from "fluffing".  Smooth is a key word when you are running with very little spool tension.

 

OP::  Running the spool loose like you are will help with distance, but requires more skill with the thumb and is what we all strive for (more skill with the thumb).  Set to where the lure slowly drops will help with overruns and backlashes, but naturally will decrease maximum distance a bit.  A friend uses nothing but Shimano baitcast reels.  His tension is set up so he doesn't need a thumb on the spool at the end of a cast.  He also has an awesome swing. His casting distance is very good.  The first thing he does when he picks up one of my reels to try is tighten spool tension.

 

It was mentioned elsewhere to use less line.  That should help with overruns/backlashes, but a full spool will give you more distance.  Another poster stated he achieved longer distances with an overhead cast.  So did I for awhile.  Now it makes no difference whether I use a side arm roll cast or an overhead cast.  Heck, a roll cast with either hand is about the same.  Only with an overhead cast is my right side casting distance longer than the left side.  I did spend a lot of time last summer practicing them all.

[Smallmouth Hunter]

Flush the bearings, train your thumb, don't whip the heck out of the rod when you cast

[Roadblock]

I flip, I do not whip! I actually cast farther flipping than whipping. I was under the impression flipping under hand or over head two handed was preferred but always a flip, never really a whip.

 

Flushed the bearings. It's a new reel but it's possible they had gummed up oil in them. Who knows how clean the Malaysian factory is and how long the reels sat before I bought it. Obviously it's a current model but still.

 

I'm not sure I trust those numbers on the St. Croix rods or any rod either as being a good indicator of what weight bait I have to use. For example, I have the 7" MHM Mojo Bass rod and I just picked up the 7" MHM Eyecon Walleye rod lastnight to compare it to. Exact same rod other than color. Same SCII blanks, same everything. One is rated 3/8 to 1oz, the other is rated 1/2 to 3oz but someone told me they were the SAME rods so I called St. Croix Customer support and they confirmed this. 

 

Eh anyway I may play around with different lines too but I've got my brake set loose and I've pretty much got thumb control down. I have to feather my line lightly to avoid backlash so I'm very sure the baits are not dragging the spool. I also have to stop the spool as my baits make water contact or I spit out a ton of line and backlash. I reset the tension with each bait and I prefer very loose. Loose gets me the best distance.