carving hard baits

[Other.]

I read the few topics on bass resource for tackle making. I treid to carve my own balsa baits but i ran into a few problems.

Alot of times when i use balsa wood i will hit a hard spot. I apply more pressure and in breaks free but the knief slips and i end up cutting my wrist and fingers and i dont like getting stiches. also for the rare times i dont end up cutting my self really badly it just comes out horrible. I mean its so lumpy and not in a good shape. It looks more like broken down digusted food about to leave the rectum then a lure.

Should i get better quality balsa wood or is it my kneif, and how do i get those lumps out? Oh yea also how do i get a basic outline on how the lure should look like when i carve it?

[boatnik13]

I'm anti balsa(soft wood) but here's my input. "SIMPLE BABY STEPS". Buy a lure you want to make as a model to copy and thats a starter. You might want to invest in a dremil. Cuts so easy and shapes real fast. Unsure of a cut > use sand disks (full size or dremil) to get perfection. I started out with broome handles making Zarra Spooks and now I can make almost any lure I see out of solid wood. (No I don't still use handles) my investments increased to items like diffrent dremil cutters. used mini lathe & a air brush. Buy supplies on line in bulk. Not everyone has a nack for lure making.

[thomas]

Hey Other,

Ask Whittler.  The man is a master. Start a topic (Hey Whittler). He will come to the rescue.

thomas ;D

[jasone]

Other,

Hey man, I would recommend taking a trip to Michaels or some other hobby store.  Buy a good Excel carving knife.  Get a good block of balsa there.  That stuff is made to carve for models and such.  You should have no problems with the wood.  Your bill there shouldn't top 20 bucks if you are conservative like me.

Second, you are going to have bumps, lumps and such.  It is inevitable when working with balsa.  The key is to get the rough shape.  Once you have that, sand for smoothness.  Use a low grit and then work your way down using finer paper.

Then come back and we will talk about getting the weights, ties and lips in...

J

[Other.]

Oh yea thats a other qustion were do i but the split rigs and lips and stuff. I tottaly forgot about all of that

[jasone]

Other

Janns Netcraft  www.jannsnetcraft.com is about the best place to get that stuff.  I never order one side.  The split rings cost about a buck for 25 of any size, so I order a couple of sizes.  You will need some good stainless wire (about .031") for hangers and the lips come in many sizes, just choose what you need.

Hope this helps.  

Feel free to contact me via my site in my sig.

J

[jbass]

I had thought about carving my own crankbaits for awhile, but never really tried. While walking on the beach with my wife I found a piece of pine left over from a campfire and brought it home. It sat in my garage for about 3 weeks and finally I put the knife to it. I first cut off a chunk which was a mistake because it was really hard to hold on to, but with some effort I ended up with a really good shape. I had lumps and bumps also but with a sharp knife, you can remove most  of it if you are really careful. From 80 grit sandpaper to 200 sandpaper, it is smooth and equally proportined. All I have to do is install the belly weight, the hook eyes, the slot for the diving bill and paint.

[THEbassmaster]

hey boatnik13, its me from the e-mails at aaronhoman@hotmail.com. well, i use a band-saw to get the shape, then sand it down to how i like it. hope this helps.

THEbassmaster

[mwhitworth25]

It looks more like broken down digusted food about to leave the rectum then a lure.

lawl

[jbass]

I've added the belly weight and the hook eyes, line tie, and diving bill and it's ready for paint.

[jasone]

That's not bad.  

The copper for the line tie was a good choice.  It will go in and out of tune and that will impart erratic action to the lure.  

Your diving bill is a little thick.  You probably got the plastic at a hardware store.  It may not matter, but I tried it once and I got the infamous swirling motion.  You can get some good circuit board bills from Lurehardware.com.  

Like I said though, it may not matter.  Nice looking lure so far.

J

[jbass]

Thanks J, since it is my very first crankbait, I feel pretty good about it. I did find the circuit board bills after I epoxied it in. Oh well, there are a lot of things to learn when making lures. I know the next one will be much better. Now the bait has been sealed and I'll probably paint it in the next few days. Not sure what though, maybe firetiger, we'll see. Thanks for the kind words.

[Other.]

I wanna see what it looks like after the paint. You might inspire me to get a new kneif and paint and try to make em.

[SFC Hall]

I use 3/4" plywood, and shape them on a beltsander, then do the detail with a dremal tool... do you konw how to plastic coat the lure? it's real easy... for those who don't know.... get a jar, fillif with a about 12oz of Laquer thiner, cut up some semi clear beer cups... disolve the peices one at a time in the thiner, it will take 9 or 10 cups to saterate the thiner... dip the lure in and right back out... let dry, dip a gain, let dry each time... it takes about 5 coats... wathch for bubbles... when you are done, your lure is coated in plastic and is waterproof... you will have to expariment on what paints will run, and wich wont (if you paint before coating).  

[Guest whittler]

Jbass, or any others who are new to making crankbaits, seal the bait then test with all hardware installed before painting. Adjustments to weight both the amount and placement is critical and much easier to correct before painting. The sealer mentioned by SFC Hall is good stuff, simple and it works. Use some 400 wet/dry sandpaper or an extra fine sanding pad to scuff the surface, gives the paint a bettter bite.

You will be amazed how much your bait making has improved by the time you have made a couple hundred.

http://jm-woodcraft.cabanova.com/

[Other.]

Dossent it make more sceance to paint it first then put the other stuff in after?

[jbass]

Well here is the finished product and with a lot of practice I hope to come close to Whittler. Not. It was a learning experience and I enjoyed every minute of it. I learned not to rush the paint. My next project will be to build a drying box. Any way here she is:

[thomas]

jbass,

Nice job.

thomas

[Guest whittler]

Really looks great to me and each bait you make, after your first, will only get better. How does it swim?

[jbass]

Whittler, thanks for the kind words. I didn't take your advice and try it out before I painted it. I'll take it out tomorrow and give her a try.

[thomas]

Hey Whittler,

Do purchase your bills for the crank baits or do you purchase the material then make them?  Also, what kind of material would you use? Sent you off a letter today.

Thank you

thomas

[speechless33759]

SFC - What are "clear beer cups?" Just plastic cups from Walmart? Pix's? I don't get it..

[SFC Hall]

SFC - What are "clear beer cups?" Just plastic cups from Walmart? Pix's? I don't get it..

Ya, from Walmart.   the plasic picnic cups... not the colored ones, but the semi clear plastice ones... not the hard plastic ones... I'll look for a thread on it...

[SFC Hall]

found it.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5203

[Guest whittler]

Thomas, I make my own lips from Lexan or circuit board, really like Lexan best because its clear.

John