Jig Fishing In Current

[Balshy Fishing]

Fishing in a local creek/river, the current is moving and I was throwing a 3/8 jig with a zoom trick worm as a trailer. How's the best way to work these?

 

I'm assuming...throw downstream and treat it like a senko? Reel and lift up, then let fall back down and hope for a bite? 

[J Francho]

Throw upstream, and let the current sweep the bait. Or move up in weight to keep the bait in place. There are times when throwing downstream work, but not often.

[Driftb]

You didn't say how deep you are fishing.  If you are in shallow water, you might want to downsize that leadhead.  Unless I am working with high water conditions, or fishing deep in fast current(deeper than 25 feet) I hardly ever fish 3/8 in summer. You want to use the lightest weight you can get away with in the current at the depth you are fishing.  On the Upper Delaware river We rarely go over 1/4 oz in summer, usually more like 1/8 or maybe 3/16. The average depth is about 4 feet and the current averages 2-3 MPH.  The fish tend to be shallow this time of year, so we don't spend much time in the really deep holes, but even when we do fish deep,  I usually use 3/16 or 1/4. A fast or extra fast medium or medium light action 6 1/2'-7' spinning rod with 6-12 lb Fireline or braid is a  must.   We used mono for many years, and caught a lot of fish on it, but the sensitivity is so much better with braids that once you try them, you will never go back to mono.  Being thinner than mono or flourocarbon, Braids cut through the current better too.  Flourocarbon has good sensitivity, but  can't stand up to the abuse of a rocky river.

 

If you are fishing from a boat, Cast at roughly 90 degrees to the bank. Casting a little more upstream than 90 degrees will give the jig time to drop, but if the water is shallow, it may hit bottom before you can take in the slack. Once you get that slack in, you will probably be hung up. Even if it is deep, casting at too big of an upstream angle, you jig will hit bottom and snag before you feel it hit.  At that point, you are likely snagged. If you are going downstream and cast ahead of the boat, you won't feel bottom until you are already past your jig, which will already be  hung up. If the boat is anchored, or you are fishing from the bank, wet wading, etc. you will have a little more latitude.  Cast a little upstream to get the drop going.  Pick up your slack quickly, and start your retrieve when your jig is starting to tick bottom.  Swim the jig slowly, and lightly pop it off the rocks it hits as you drag it along.  Too much lifting and jigging your rod will just keep the jig from dropping.  Smallmouth and walleye will take a bait being pulled slowly across current, upstream or hanging in the current.  Walleye will rarely take a bait retrieved downstream. Smallmouth  and trout being more active swimmers are much more likely to take a bait retrieved downstream than a walleye, but with jigs, your best bet is swimming across the current, then a slow upstream drag.  Bass and walleye will even hit a jig on a dead stick in the current.  If they don't want slow, sometimes you can trigger a reaction strike by letting the jig drop, swinging it across the current, then ripping it in before it is hanging downstream.

[YungAngler]

While I agree with the above posters that 3/4 oz may be a little heavy, I almost always throw a 1/2 oz football jig in the rivers I fish.  I like to cast into the current and swim the jig close to the bottom, feeling every rock and branch with the jig.  I mix up my speed depending on conditions and what seems to be working.  I know a lot of guys deadstick their jig for a minute and bounce it off the bottom while slowly and steadily retrieving.  I seldom do this, but only because I tend to fish pretty fast.  Keep in mind a jig bite can be very subtle.  I've had bites that I thought were snags and ended up landing some very nice fish.  Just remember to the set the hook as soon as you feel that bite.  Don't get discouraged.  Once you master the jig, you will always have one tied on.  They seem to attract the bigger fish, partly because I think they mimic forage so well in the water. 

[Scott F]

2 different viewpoints given. One heavier weight, one lighter. You also have to consider the bottom content. In very rocky areas, you will spend a lot of time re-tying using heavier weights as they will snag up easily. Myself, I fish the shallower rivers also, (under 4 feet mostly) and prefer little to no weight at all. Bass are used to food flowing at the speed of the current and will come up to grab it when they are actively feeding. In my waters, baits that stop on the bottom will snag so I keep them moving. Light gravel and sand will let you get away with slower moving and heavier jigs.

[5dollarsplash]

Lightweight (1/8-3/8oz) thrown up stream tends to work best for me.  A lot of line watching is involved and any reeling is to pick up the slack.  Pop the lure up off the bottom and let it drift and sink, reel up slack, watch for movement and repeat.

 

If this fails, I will upsize (3/8-3/4oz) and drag the bottom with a slow retrieve crawled across the rocks etc.  This will get you hung up quite a bit, but if your not catching desperate times call for desperate measures.  While I might upsize the jighead, I keep the trailer small, we're pulling teeth for bites at this point.

[Steveo-1969]

This time of year I'm wading and fishing 4 feet or less most of the time.  I've had good luck with a 1/8 ounce skirted jig with a weed guard and craw chunk trailer.  It's surprisingly snag resistant (though it will get hung up at times).  I'm throwing it upstream at various angles.  I let it hit bottom, lift it up and let it drift in current and reel slack until it hits bottom, lift it up again, etc.  1/8 ounce is heavy enough for the current I'm faced with.  10# braid with 8# fluoro leader for abrasion resistance.  Works well for me.