Gonna Start Building My Own Rods This Winter, Got Some Questions.

[JeziHogg]

1. Once you find the spine of the blank, how do you know where to put each guide? Is there a specific measurement between guides?

2. How do you know how far up to put the reel seat, or is it just personal preference?

3. Is there a difference between spinning and casting blanks? Or can you use any blank you make either or.

[ThatZX14Fella]

PM DVT, he does custom rods so I'm sure he can answer all your questions.

[gulfcaptain]

Spine the rod by holding it horizonal and bend the tip....support the rod in the crease between your thumb and fingers.  The rod with roll to the spine. Mark it. You want the guides on top of spine for casting, bottom for spinning.  I've built 2 rods....I found out a lot doing that. #1, it's cheaper to let someone else make it.  Unless you plan on wrapping lots of rods it's gonna cost quite a bit unless you plan on physically spinning each rod on a cardboard box while wrapping it and then slowly turning it for a few hrs while the flex drys so you get it evenly.  But if it's something you're wanting to get into I'm sure you can find books to read, but most learn from someone teaching them the craft.

[rippin-lips]

I know a popular company to order from is mudhole and there are some guides on there on guide placement.

[Jrob78]

Building on the spine of a blank is something some people do and some don't.  I don't.  I build on the straightest axis.  When you look down a blank it will normally curve a little.  Not too many blanks are arrow straight.  I like to build with the blank curving up so that when you look down the rod it appears straight.  The weight of the guides will also pull it down a little.  I never noticed any benefit to building on the spine so I quit doing it.  

 

There are guide charts online that will help you find placement.  Most builders static test their blanks to find the ideal placement.  Guide charts are generic and don't account for different blanks and different guides but they will work.  

 

Reel seat placement is completely personal preference.  It will effect balance though.  I normally have 9"-11" between the butt and reel seat on casting rods, depending on how long the rod is and what it will be used for.

 

You can use any blank for any rod.  Bass spinning blanks will be less powerful than casting blanks.

 

Rod building is fun and rewarding but don't plan on saving any money.  Go to rodbuilding.org and read all you can.  Mudhole is a good one stop supplier but there are many others.  Most places will test fit components for you so you don't have to guess or place two orders.

[JeziHogg]

Building on the spine of a blank is something some people do and some don't.  I don't.  I build on the straightest axis.  When you look down a blank it will normally curve a little.  Not too many blanks are arrow straight.  I like to build with the blank curving up so that when you look down the rod it appears straight.  The weight of the guides will also pull it down a little.  I never noticed any benefit to building on the spine so I quit doing it.  

 

There are guide charts online that will help you find placement.  Most builders static test their blanks to find the ideal placement.  Guide charts are generic and don't account for different blanks and different guides but they will work.  

 

Reel seat placement is completely personal preference.  It will effect balance though.  I normally have 9"-11" between the butt and reel seat on casting rods, depending on how long the rod is and what it will be used for.

 

You can use any blank for any rod.  Bass spinning blanks will be less powerful than casting blanks.

 

Rod building is fun and rewarding but don't plan on saving any money.  Go to rodbuilding.org and read all you can.  Mudhole is a good one stop supplier but there are many others.  Most places will test fit components for you so you don't have to guess or place two orders.

Is that 9"-11" from the top or the bottom of the blank?

Also, I've been looking at these really nice ALPS reel seats (http://www.alpstackle.com/index.php?func=product&act=view&gid=10&pro_id=42) What do I measure on the blank to determine what size of reel seat to use?

[Jrob78]

Is that 9"-11" from the top or the bottom of the blank?

Also, I've been looking at these really nice ALPS reel seats (http://www.alpstackle.com/index.php?func=product&act=view&gid=10&pro_id=42) What do I measure on the blank to determine what size of reel seat to use?

That distance is from the bottom of the rod to the bottom of the reel seat.   You have to decide where you want the seat to go and then use calipers to measure the diameter of the blank at that spot.  Blank exposed reel seats fit snuggly on the blank.  Order a seat that will fit on the blank at the spot that you measured. 

[JeziHogg]

Ok, so the measurements listed there are the inside diameter of the reel seat I'm assuming?

[Jrob78]

Ok, so the measurements listed there are the inside diameter of the reel seat I'm assuming?

Correct

[JeziHogg]

Awesome, thanks for all the help guys! Now to spend some money on tools and try to hide them from my wife.

[papajoe222]

I recommend purchasing a rod building kit that contains most of the materials for the the rod. Most kits will give guide placement measurements. You can add a little customizing by using whatever color thread you like. Tool kits are also available as are individual tools. Check out e-bay for a dryer. My first was a single speed motor and chuck that I mounted to a homemade stand for under $20

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Building on the spine of a blank is 1980's technique. There has never ben anything but anecdotal evidence and opinion to substantiate any advantage or disadvantage. A rod is not fished strictly on one plane, it gets bent in all directions at some point. Using the straightest axis keeps the guides in alignment and is more pleasing aesthetically. Rod building is a rewarding craft, but not something to get into just to save a few bucks on a rod. It won't likely happen, and there is a learning curve. I've seen some 1st attempts that were very impressive, but usually as your skill level rises you're first try pales in comparison. Guide placement charts are ok for a practice rod to wet your feet on, but performance wise, guide placement is one of the biggest advantages to going custom. Research "Static Testing guide placement", "27x guide placement" and "Fuji KR Concept". You need a rod dryer right away. Turning a rod by hand is tedious but it's good experience is learning how epoxy behaves as it cures. Most manufacture's spinning blanks are little less powerful and faster than similarly labeled casting blanks, however the blank doesn't know the difference so they can be built any way you want. I'm in the process of building a casting rod for steelhead on a 4pc fly blank. Reel seat placement is driven by a combination of factors and considerations including blank length, angler stature and desired balance. If you decide to give it a whirl and get stuck on anything feel free to contact me directly.

[JeziHogg]

Right on, thanks dvt.

[JeziHogg]

Right on, thanks dvt.

[.RM.]

Building on the spine of a blank is 1980's technique. There has never ben anything but anecdotal evidence and opinion to substantiate any advantage or disadvantage. A rod is not fished strictly on one plane, it gets bent in all directions at some point. Using the straightest axis keeps the guides in alignment and is more pleasing aesthetically. Rod building is a rewarding craft, but not something to get into just to save a few bucks on a rod. It won't likely happen, and there is a learning curve. I've seen some 1st attempts that were very impressive, but usually as your skill level rises you're first try pales in comparison. Guide placement charts are ok for a practice rod to wet your feet on, but performance wise, guide placement is one of the biggest advantages to going custom. Research "Static Testing guide placement", "27x guide placement" and "Fuji KR Concept". You need a rod dryer right away. Turning a rod by hand is tedious but it's good experience is learning how epoxy behaves as it cures. Most manufacture's spinning blanks are little less powerful and faster than similarly labeled casting blanks, however the blank doesn't know the difference so they can be built any way you want. I'm in the process of building a casting rod for steelhead on a 4pc fly blank. Reel seat placement is driven by a combination of factors and considerations including blank length, angler stature and desired balance. If you decide to give it a whirl and get stuck on anything feel free to contact me directly.

X2 

[Strothman]

Just my two cents instead of telling you about how economical rod building isnt, I will tell you, I do it as a hobby, not to save money. I buy good components, and good blanks. But the best decision I made, was for first rod, I bought a MHX kit from mudhole. Reasonably priced, has everything with it including the guide spacing chart. I bought the X-Glass crankbait kit and I use the rod regularly

[JeziHogg]

Ya, I'm not doing it to save money, I'm doing it to kill winter hours up here in the great white north. I don't think I'm going to skip out on good quality stuff either.

[papajoe222]

It can definately be a time consuming project and I too, got into it to occupy those fishingless hours of the off season.  Keeping that in mind, one bit of advice;  Don't rush things on your first build.  I was in a bit of a hurry to complete my first that I didn't address thread color preservation and ended up with the main color bleeding into my trim bands.  Not easy to see, but of course it's the first thing I notice when I use the rod. 

Good Luck and I hope you have fairly deep pockets and plenty of patience. 

[shanksmare]

There are rodbuilders and shops that carry rodbuilding supplies that often give classes on building rods. I've seen some of the rods that 1st timers have produced and they are of very high quality. If there is a class somewhere near where you live I would go that route.

 

Many of the tools needed to make rod building easier can be made from scrap wood. For years I've used 4 or 5 V-blocks made from scrap wood and lined with weather stripping felt to protect the rod finish. I made a drying motor from an old barbeque grill rottisiere motor.

 

The first rods I wrapped I used nothing but a coffee cup for the thread and a few books with a bag of lead shot for tensionand a set of very strong fingers. I turned the rod every 5 or 10 minutes for several hours until the finish was tacky enough so it wouldn't run. Not recommended!

 

Most of the rods I've built were for my own use. I've built 20  or so surf rods (spinning and conventional), 10 or so FW baitcasters and 10 or so fly rods (5 wt to 10 wt). They weren't works of art (they weren't supposed to be) but good servicable rods.

 

I found that I could build fly rods that had better components than Sage or Loomis at a  fraction of the cost.

 

Over the years I found that plain old Hardaloy guides were just as servicable as SIC at a fraction of the cost. I found that guide placement didn't make that much of a big deal. There are many charts online that give recommended sizes and placement. They seem to work fine. You can always tape the guides on and try the rod to see if any size or placement tweeks are in order. If you are using the rod to pitch lures under docks or into fallen trees, I doubt if it will make much of a difference. Even with a surf rod, where distance is a lot more apparent than with a FW rod, I never noticed any major improvements by tweeking guides.

 

I believe the K concept (or whatever its called) has much more of an effect when using mono or flouro. I think from what I've read, it has minimal effect when using braid.

 

As Papajoe stated, take your time and have fun. It can be addicting. If you have problems seek the advice of a pro. Most are very helpful. You may or may not save any money, but you will have the satisfaction of fishing with a rod you built yourself. That in and of itself is very gratifying.

[Batson]

Delaware Valley Tackle, Your correct!! There is a ton of info that is out there for you. Just depending on who's rod blank and components you use. I first would have you watch some youtube.com videos on rod building. I agree with most of the people on here that rod making will cost you more only because you have access to a ton of different choices. Now if you stick to making something that you would get out of a store, just want a less expensive route, then that is ok too!! We have complied a list for guide spacing and making rod blueprints: www.guidespacing.com. Now again remember everyone has a different opinion on what they want to build. But that is the beauty of rod building!! You can make a handle what ever length you want, and buy all the parts and pieces to make it as simple or elaborate as you want! I would invest in good tools though if you want to get serious. This will save you a ton of time and frustrations. 

 

Also to help with the english of our ALPS Taiwanese friends that might not have the English translation down,  Another site you can go to is: www.alpsforecast.com

[uncustered]

Just remember this:

There are no 12 step programs for rod builders.

Once you fish your first creation....

Well, I'll be building another this winter.... Good thing I have multiple storage places. If the bride saw them all at once.... Whew...

[MickD]

Check out books by Tom Kirkman, the forum Rodbuilding.org, and Rodmaker Magazine.  It is my opinion that one underestimated dimension is the distance between the reel and the butt of the spinning rod.  Too long and the rod hangs up on clothing with tip-up techniques.  I once took 1 1/2 inches off the butt of a $160 blank because of this error.  Balance is so unimportant compared with ergonomics, and you really can do nothing more than use the lightest guides to affect it.  If you really try to balance most rods you will screw up the ergonomics.  Adding weight to the butt with balancing devices, in my opinion, is counterproductive.  But one of the reasons for building your own is to get things the way you want them, so go for whatever you want.  I suggest you test cast every rod with the reel seat taped in position and the guides taped on.  You can then decide without committing what you want to do.

 

I also suggest you visit the Fuji Anglers Resource site for a lot of good design info.  It obviously is slanted toward Fuji, but it is still good info.  Keep in mind also that braid line makes almost any rod cast very well.  You can go smaller on guides with braid than with mono or flouro.  (that will help balance and sensitivity).

[Hogsticker]

I got started not long ago and quickly realized that I suck at it, but I've never been real good with my hands, nor do I have a lot of patience. I started talking to a guy who also just started and kinda handed everything over to him. He's super cool and really enjoys building. I lucked out big time. He builds whatever I want free of any labor charges. It gives him an excuse to sample blanks and components I'm having him use, plus if he wants to build a stick for himself he can tell his wife it's for me. Ha! I've noticed his work is getting better and he was d**n good off the get go. His work is amazing and I'm quite grateful. It's not for everyone, but if you're meticulous you shouldn't have any problems, you'll just end up with more rods than you know what to do with.