So, Guys, "super Tuning" Etc, A Rambling Report

[Josh Smith]

Hi Folks,

 

So got to reading some things which were suggested to me when I posted questions after first coming here.

 

It turns out that "super tuning" is what I've just always done to reels.

 

There are new(er) lubes and ideas out there, but the basic polish points are the same. 

 

After experimentation, I've found I prefer 0w-30 Mobile 1 on bearings and high-speed bushings, and lanolin on the teeth of gears that don't move during free-spool.  Lanolin is also an excellent protectorant as wells as lubricant, and it's used on the sideplate mating surfaces.  Fluid Film is a lanolin spray, and it's used on the internals that are not gears.

 

The whole lanolin thing comes from extensive use of it on firearms.  The stuff just works.

 

I recently acquired an older Ambassadeur 5000 from eBay.  The price was right and it was lightly used.

 

After ordering new bushings that it really didn't need, I set to do the "super tune" thing to it.  However, prior to this, I ran a test to see how far I could cast with a rod and 1/2oz weight.  It came in at 30 yards pretty consistently.

 

After "super tuning" I'm getting about 35-40 yards.  I can't seem to get much further than that, but that distance requires almost no effort whereas before, it did.  The spool rides on a film of oil like car bearings.

 

I installed spool bearings on another 5000 I have.  It's mounted on a longer, newer pole that can be cast two-handed.  Curiously, I make about the same distance as with the bushing-equipped model.  This one is mounted on a medium-weight 6'6 Jupiter rod.  Same 1/2oz weight.

 

Both outdistance the Quantum I bought.  Likewise, it's "super tuned" but has magnets instead of centrifugal brakes.  It makes just about as far as the bearing-equipped 5000.  The weight is the same, of course, and the rod is the same but is the heavy version and 7' long.

 

(I bought this Quantum because it was made in Korea.  Another thread asked about the quality of Korean-made reels, and though there's a bit more plastic in this one than I'd like, I'm pretty impressed.  There are a couple internals that I believe could have been better made, but overall it's an excellent reel.)

 

I do believe the next thing I'll be doing is swapping the worm gear bushings for bearings in the Abu 5000 reels, and a recently-traded-for 5000c. 

 

I should be able to also replace the shaft bushing with a bearing.  It will require some opening up of the opening, but I think I can just make it fit.

 

The biggest issue with playing with these is figuring out what components swap.  For example, the old 'fast' pinion gear is no longer made.  An upgrade to 5500c gears now requires a 5500c spool, which in turn requires bearings.  This is why I eventually ended up building the 5000 I wanted to upgrade with new gears into a 5500c (for all purposes, anyway).

 

These are just late-night thoughts I'm writing to unwind from a hard day.  Maybe what I've found out so far will help someone.

 

Goodnight folks.

 

Regards,

 

Josh

[OnthePotomac]

I also clean and polish my own reels and I have never heard of using Mobil 1 in reel bearings with all of the fine bearing oils out there.  They have to be spinning pretty slow at that viscosity.

[OkobojiEagle]

I also used engine oil in my older round Abu spool bearings... gave much better spool control.  I also learned to underfill the spool with line by a good 1/4 inch or better.

 

 

Just this spring I replaced my Ambassador 4601 with a Chronarch 51e.  Yes, I agree the Chronarch is a more refined reel, but I do miss the feel of that Ambassador in my hands...

 

 

oe

[Josh Smith]

I almost used Dex III, G3, but I wanted to give the heavy stuff a go, first.

 

You're right.  They do spin slowly compared to the modern reels.  I like it.  I've not calculated the RPM yet, but the lure travels around 30fps to 40fps or so.

 

I got on my shooting range, cast the line and counted to come up with those numbers.

 

Granted, it's a parabolic curve instead of straight cast, but the weight is usually airborne for a two or three count and travels 35 to 40 yards.

 

It might need lighter oil.  I like the bushing reel to ride on a film of oil, though, and not let the axle touch the bushings during the cast.  The bearings should probably get lighter Dex III or similar, though.

 

Regard,

 

Josh

[Jeff H]

The places I prefer heavier oil are the wormgear/pawl and bearings on the drive shaft.  Spool and pinion bearings get light oil.

[oldschoolbasser]

I have an older 5000 High Speed gear set 4.7:1. I converted my brake plates to accept the collar style pinion gear as they are easier to find.

[Josh Smith]

I have an older 5000 High Speed gear set 4.7:1. I converted my brake plates to accept the collar style pinion gear as they are easier to find.

 

Sir, I converted my collar-style pinion gear to accept the brake plate!

 

It works really well.

 

Regards,

 

Josh

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Tranny fluid is lighter than motor oil but still way too heavy for spool bearings. Spool control is seldom a problem with non-disengaging level wind reels. In fact, it's common practice to see the two centrifugal brake shoes discarded. The level wind bearing upgrade is a good idea if you want better free-spool.

[DogBone_384]

I like the Mobil-1 theory.  I've been using it in my motorcycles and cars/trucks since the early '90s and can say I've never had any engine problems and the top ends of my 17 &19 year old Suzuki sport bikes still look great with 20,000+ & 37,000+ miles on them (respectively, with minor race track usage).

 

Thanks for the post... something else to ponder on this winter when I can't fish...

[Josh Smith]

Tranny fluid is lighter than motor oil but still way too heavy for spool bearings. Spool control is seldom a problem with non-disengaging level wind reels. In fact, it's common practice to see the two centrifugal brake shoes discarded. The level wind bearing upgrade is a good idea if you want better free-spool.

 

I like it when using bushings, but I agree with you with regards to the ball bearings.  I wanted to try it, though.

 

There is some gun stuff called Militec-1.  It's light, and it's made to fuse with the metal.  The military doesn't like it because it operates dry and gives no corrosion protection, but it doesn't attract that talcum-powder sand either, and is therefore popular with at least some troops.

 

I've been thinking about trying it on the bearings.  As long as friction is reduced, running dry should be good, I think, for operation.

 

Do you have any thoughts on the matter?

 

Thanks,

 

Josh

[OnthePotomac]

You might want to look at this product used by a lot of West coast salt water anglers in which they dip their bearings.  It was developed for NASA since oil cannot be used in space.

 

http://www.tsi301.com/main.htm

[Josh Smith]

Thank you for the link. That stuff looks interesting and I would like to try it.

Regards,

Josh

[shanksmare]

I have two Abu 7000 reels that I used extensively fishing for striped bass from shore in saltwater. One of the reels was a newer model and was equiped with ball bearings the other was equiped with bushings. I never detected a noticable difference in the casting distance between the two.  I also used two similar rods. One was 10' and the other was 9'. The 10' rod always outcast the 9' rod by a noticable distance as long as the other variables were the same. (line, lure, wind, etc)

 

I used to bump into Ron Arra, 5 time US Distance Casting Champion, many mornings while fishing the Cape Cod Canal. He duisigned a line of surf rods for Lamiglas which were in favor by Canal regulars, I once asked him what lube he used for his reels. He replied SAE 20 3 and 1 Oil. I was surprised that he used something so common rather than the more exotic (spelled expensive) lubes.

[georgeyew]

I like it when using bushings, but I agree with you with regards to the ball bearings.  I wanted to try it, though.

 

There is some gun stuff called Militec-1.  It's light, and it's made to fuse with the metal.  The military doesn't like it because it operates dry and gives no corrosion protection, but it doesn't attract that talcum-powder sand either, and is therefore popular with at least some troops.

 

I've been thinking about trying it on the bearings.  As long as friction is reduced, running dry should be good, I think, for operation.

 

Do you have any thoughts on the matter?

 

Thanks,

 

Josh

 

I have used Militec 1 in the past. It should work with bearings but it may not have the fusing effect that you are looking for. Militec will only fuse with the metal under high temperatures. That is why it works so well with guns. I don't think that the bearing generate enough heat for the lubricant to fuse.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Rem Oil works well so I wouldn't be surprised is other gun oils worked well. The main thing is that they are thin and viscosity stable temp wise. Reels are not a high speed, temp or pressure application. I can tell this though; as a former oil distributor, there is no magic to any of this and many of these "molecular bonding" claims are pure marketing.

[Capt.Bob]

There are many lubes that will protect, but the right lubes for spool bearing are few. The TSI-301 should be used cautiously, and kept away from plastic and some synthetics as it contains solvents.  The only place I use it as the lubricant is on Ceramic spool bearings, and for those that like the noise it is great.

 

I also notice you are from the same area I am, years ago Mobil 1 was tried, but I found out quickly, there is a huge difference using it in this climate in June and August, But in Dec. thru April when temps can be close to freezing or below it SUCK'S. Even on Sinning reel bearings, it creates a lot of resistance and is worthless on spool bearings in these temps, it's like turning every brake on and using to much tension adjustment all at the same time. There are many good choices intended for spool bearings that work great all year long.