Old Boat Engines...... Help!!

[Bamaabugarcia]

So, here's the picture. I've got a fairly old motor that hasn't been run in 5 plus years. it was given to me for 25 bucks.  I the guy I got it off of said it had a weak cylinder. but it ran the last time he used it. He's a friend of my dad's so I am pretty sure he wouldn't screw me over with a seized engine. has anyone ever tried starting an old engine like this? 

 

i will update with engine info and pictures. Also following the update i need to find a new cowling for the motor. I'm not sure of the laws or if there is any laws about having a cowling that says the wrong horsepower. 

 

I can do whatever work is needed for the engine. I'm learning enough to know what goes where and does what, I'm just not sure where to really start. 

 

All help is appreciated. Thank You.

 

UPDATE: numbers- 200lt78r   j5003852

               im looking for a free manual for this engine. if you know of a website please share, thank you

[Bladesmith,]

I have owned and used a lot of older motors over the years. You did not give any identifying information. Who made it, what HP is it, model and serial no. would be helpful.

[Way2slow]

That motor is a 1978 200hp Johnson.

If you got it for $25, he must have been a real friend. Scrap metal value is over $100, so he definitely did not take advantage of you.

Now, as for making a usable motor out of it when he has already said it has at least one bad cylinder, that's probably not cost effective unless you are very good with rebuilding motors and can do all the work yourself, and have the controls with it.

If you are a ebayer, strip it down and sell it for parts, scrap what don't sale.

[fxdwgkd]

I got a manual from NAPA but it was not free.  You will probably have between 800-1300 in repairs depending on how deep you go into the repair. I just did my brothers Merc 115 and had just under 1000 in it including machine shop cost.

[Bamaabugarcia]

I have a mechanic friend and he can answer any questions i have about the actual fix. He does not work with boats. I have plenty of elbow grease. My real concern is if its worth fixing. parts will be the only thing i have to pay for.(note: i do not have the shifter, if that's what it is called) I've rebuilt small engines. never anything over about 35hp. everything to do it is at my fingertips. i just don't want it to be not worth the work and money.

 

Thank yall for the help.

 

Thanks again,

Broke student

[Way2slow]

Most likely you will have to bore all six holes. This will can run $30 -$60 per hole, but you will also have to find a shop that can bore blind holes, most auto shops can't. If any sleeves need replacing, they will run you approx $200 each. Pistons and rings will run $65 - $130, depending on where you get them. A gasket set will run $200 or so. Figure six holes bored, pistons and gaskets, you can easily be at $800 - $1000. Water pump, carb kits, plugs and other small items will add $200 to that.

All bearings can usually be reused, except the bottom main, it must be replaced, but it's not very expensive. The other thing is the rod bearings, good chance they are loose needles on both ends, easy to lose and are not that good. I always go back with caged bearings on both rod ends. They are better, and a lot easier to install, and are not very expensive, at least not like the mains.

Now, this is just the mechanical, the electronics stator, timer base, coils, power packs etc, get very expensive quickly if they are bad.

Also check the LU, make sure lube does not have water in it before getting into the power head. Might want to check the tilt and trim. If it doesn't have it, that's a heavy motor to be doing by hand every time.

Then the cost of controls, might want to check on the cost and availability.

Also be aware, around 77/78 they had a lower unit called a hydrostatic shift (or something like that) and you MUST have the controls for THAT motor. Forward and Reverse for that particular motor are backwards from all other controls.

Also ba careful buying early control. If your motor has the normal LU, and you get a remote for that oddball, when you push forward, the motor will be in reverse.

[Smokinal]

Slow down folks. The very first thing I would do is to put a liberal amount of Marvel's Mystery Oil into each cylinder, spin it over, let it sit, maybe do it again and then do a compression test on each cylinder. I have bought and sold many cars over the years and have bought some that the owners though needed engines only to find out it had a bad coil or intake gasket etc.... I bought one car that the owners though had a bad cylinder and it was a $2 vacuum hose...ran great.  I guess I'm just saying that this prior owner may be wrong in his diagnosis of a bad cylinder so I would verify this before I bought an engine rebuild kit. And even if one cylinder is a little weak, depending how much weaker, it may be fine to just run it the way it is.

Just do some more homework before you start disassembly.

[Bamaabugarcia]

Compression test will happen on Monday. i will be continuing to post updates in the hopes that i will continue receiving advice.

 

thanks to everyone who contributed 

[Way2slow]

Compression test on two strokes, starter needs to be turning the engine at least 250 rpm so make sure you are using a very good battery, and make sure you have the butterflies open in the carbs. Another common problem is, if you take all four plugs out, the bendix will kick out every time it hits on the cylinder with the compression gauge. If it does only remove one plug at the time. If you can get hold of a leak down tester, that's better than a compression test. 5% is good, 10% is the max you will want to see.