Does Flourocarbon Matter As Much As Companies Say It Does

[iabass8]

  Is fluorocarbon line really an improvement and does it make fishing better?  

 

I think so. I love the stuff.

  From what I've read, the water refractive index is 1.33, fluorocarbon is 1.42, and nylon mono from 1.53 to 1.62.  Is that really such a great improvement?  

 

Could not care less about its refractive properties. I'd fish it if it were more visible than braid. I love it's slack line sensitivity and the waters I fish demand a highly abrasive line for zebra muscles. There isn't a line on the market than can touch the slack line sensitivity /w the abrasion resistant of a QUALITY fluorocarbon. 

    Many say they like fluorocarbon because it is stiffer and transmit the bite better.  OK, I'll give you that.  But if you read fishing boards for a few months your are bound to see posts such as "I've had it with fluorocarbon" or " My knots keep breaking."  I don't see too many people bashing mono.  

 

 

 

The majority of the people that have these complaints can't tie proper(fluorocarbon) knots and buy inexpensive junk. I'm sure there will be arguments about that statement but whatever. I'm sure a lot of people can tie great knots /w mono and braid but fluorocarbons, for the most part, require special knots so the line doesn't dig in on itself and break . If people can't accept that, don't use it. I've used extremely cheap fluoro and, currently, use very high end fluoro.(Tatsu, shooter, FC sniper) Knot issues were never a factor if you check your line and tie a good fluorocarbon knot i.e san diego jam, shawn grigsby/no name not w/e its called.  I fish anywhere from 6 and 7# fluoro on spinning reels and 12-20 fluoro on casting rods. Can't say I ever have breaks at the knot and I tie the same exact knot for all line sizes; shawn grisgby/double san diego game/ no name knot.  If you're tying a knot correctly and wetting it before you synch it down, knot breakages will be a non issue. 

 

KVD line and lure conditioner is a saving grace for any coiling/memory issues for all types mono/fluoro lines.

 

 

 I've had experience with P-Line Floroclear and I don't care to go back to that stuff again.  Too many knot breaks.  Since I've been using mono - no knot breaks even when I grab the line near the hook (something I try not to do).

 

When I get my new spinning reel I'm thinking of putting eight pound pure fluorocarbon on it and trying it out.  But any knot breaks and it's coming off and Sufix mono is going on.  

If mono is working for you, keep using it. Either that of pony up the cash for a good fluoro. Cheap stuff will just disappoint you.

 

Don't take this as a personal attack if it came off that way. I felt being blunt and breaking your post down would be easier to decipher. 

[dam0007]

Is fluorocarbon line really an improvement and does it make fishing better?  From what I've read, the water refractive index is 1.33, fluorocarbon is 1.42, and nylon mono from 1.53 to 1.62.  Is that really such a great improvement?  Many say they like fluorocarbon because it is stiffer and transmit the bite better.  OK, I'll give you that.  But if you read fishing boards for a few months your are bound to see posts such as "I've had it with fluorocarbon" or " My knots keep breaking."  I don't see too many people bashing mono.  

 

 I've had experience with P-Line Floroclear and I don't care to go back to that stuff again.  Too many knot breaks.  Since I've been using mono - no knot breaks even when I grab the line near the hook (something I try not to do).

 

When I get my new spinning reel I'm thinking of putting eight pound pure fluorocarbon on it and trying it out.  But any knot breaks and it's coming off and Sufix mono is going on.  

last week I caught roughly 40 bass and a handful of hang ups on the same knot. With that said, guys, not saying you at all, might be tying knots that dig in themselves. Gotta use right knot for the job.

[Catch and Grease]

P-line floroclear isn't a real fluorocarbon though? I thought that was just a fluoro coated line?

[Tywithay]

Is fluorocarbon line really an improvement and does it make fishing better? From what I've read, the water refractive index is 1.33, fluorocarbon is 1.42, and nylon mono from 1.53 to 1.62. Is that really such a great improvement? Many say they like fluorocarbon because it is stiffer and transmit the bite better. OK, I'll give you that. But if you read fishing boards for a few months your are bound to see posts such as "I've had it with fluorocarbon" or " My knots keep breaking." I don't see too many people bashing mono.

I've had experience with P-Line Floroclear and I don't care to go back to that stuff again. Too many knot breaks. Since I've been using mono - no knot breaks even when I grab the line near the hook (something I try not to do).

When I get my new spinning reel I'm thinking of putting eight pound pure fluorocarbon on it and trying it out. But any knot breaks and it's coming off and Sufix mono is going on.

First, Fluoroclear is not a fluorocarbon line. It's a copolymer. Second, everyone keeps talking about the refractive index and how fluorocarbon is "invisible;" that's probably the least important advantage that fluorocarbon has over mono. The abrasion resistance of good fluorocarbon, when wet, far exceeds anything mono can even dream of. The good stuff has much less stretch, meaning better hooksets and more sensitivity. It doesn't break down under UV light, so you can leave it on the spool for much longer and it won't weaken, like mono. The biggest key is just to get good line. Too many people just want to try it and end up getting the cheapest kind, then they hate it. The better quality line you get, the more pleasant the experience.

[rippin-lips]

Here is a good read on fluorocarbon lines from TT. Take a look and you might find out a few things you didn't know.

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbon2.html

[Logan S]

I try to keep it simple.  

 

 

Fluoro sinks, has great all around sensitivity, is abrasion resistant, and typically has a smaller diameter than equal mono.  Why wouldn't I use it?

 

The fact that it sinks is such a huge advantage in everything outside of topwater...Yet nobody really ever talks about it as being that important.  It's probably best quality about Flourocarbon.  You will have less of a bow in your line above and below the surface, meaning less distance for movment to travel (sensitivity).  It also means less line to move when setting the hook.  

 

 

A little advice

 

Your line is always going to break at the weakest point, the overwhelming majority of the time that will be at the knot...No matter what knot you tie.  

 

Tie a palomar knot.  Wet the line, including ALL the line that will pass thru the knot (the whole loop).  Cinch it down SLOWLY.  You can choose another knot and follow these steps too, but the palomar is the easiest and also the strongest IMO.  

 

Check the last 5 feet of your line often (with any line).  Even grass can fray line if you're in it enough.  Retie every few fish or every couple hours...Even with no visable damage, the line/knots will get stressed.  

 

Line conditioners are useless on flouro, don't waste your time/money.  Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/braid does...So line conditioner will only sit on top of it until it dries out.  

 

You don't need to spend big bucks.  Seagar Red Label is excellent line, I use it almost exclusivly.  BassPro XPS is also excellent.

 

It is stiffer than mono/braid.  You will have to adjust your casting especially on baitcasting gear.  It's not hard, just do it...It will make you an even better caster when you pick up a rod with braid/mono.  

 

It's not invisible.  Not even close.  Just look at in the water for yourself.  This makes no difference.  If you think fish aren't going to eat your bait because they can see the line, what about the hooks/weights/bills/split rings/etc???? Getting more bites with flouro is likely a combination of the action changing due to the line sinking and being a smaller diameter, OR simply because you can feel more.  

[Hogsticker]

I agree with the previous post 100%. If you really want to use it you have to learn to use it and adjust. All fluorocarbon lines are not created equal. It sinks, a huge plus. Low stretch, another bonus. Great slack line sensitivity, at times a must. You just have to pay a little closer attention to every cast. I use twelve pound Sniper for lipless cranks. On my T3 MX on long cast with the brake dial set at two I can still wing it and get longer casts than mono or braid. With a fresh spool I simply run two thirds of the line behind the boat and troll a lure for a few minutes to tame and stretch the line a bit. Pretty simple. I'll be honest. I use to hate fluorocarbon till I tried Sniper.

[rippin-lips]

#1 line and lure does nothing - false/debatable

#2 red label is excellent - false/debatable

#3 it's not invisible - false/debatable

There's been plenty of underwater footage showing a bait on different line types and fluoro is the hardest to see underwater or 'invisible' as they like to say.

[Tywithay]

#1 line and lure does nothing - false/debatable

#2 red label is excellent - false/debatable

#3 it's not invisible - false/debatable

There's been plenty of underwater footage showing a bait on different line types and fluoro is the hardest to see underwater or 'invisible' as they like to say.

We all know Cajun Line is the most invisible though, because it's red...

[Logan S]

#1 line and lure does nothing - false/debatable

#2 red label is excellent - false/debatable

#3 it's not invisible - false/debatable

There's been plenty of underwater footage showing a bait on different line types and fluoro is the hardest to see underwater or 'invisible' as they like to say.

1: If you like it, don't let me stop you   It's not doing the same thing it does to mono/copoly.

2: Don't buy it if you don't like it  It works very well for me and many, many others.  Never said it was the absolute best. 

3: I've looked at it, both from above and below the surface with my own eyes.  You can see it.  Either way, like I said earlier it's a non-factor to me. 

 

 

I'm advocating using flouro by the way, for me mono/colpoly only touches topwater stuff.  Just passing along my on the water experience, don't take it personally or anything.  

[rippin-lips]

It's not personal at all.

It's all been discussed on here 10,000 times before.

[hoosierbass07]

 I'll admit I didn't wet my line much when using P-Line Floroclear.  Also, I probably didn't pay much attention if my palomar knot was tied correctly.  On the bass I lost when the knot broke, the knot never broke while fighting the bass, only when I pulled the bass out of the water and I grabbed the line a few inches above the hook or maybe a foot or two above the hook.  If the bass jerked any the knot broke.  

[rippin-lips]

Gotta make sure nothing is crossed line wise when tying and then I always loosen/open up the overhand knot I make once I pass it over the lure. Open it up pretty far so when you are cinching the knot down you don't burn the line from friction. That's what really weakens fluorocarbon line.

[iabass8]

 

Tie a palomar knot.  Wet the line, including ALL the line that will pass thru the knot (the whole loop).  Cinch it down SLOWLY.  You can choose another knot and follow these steps too, but the palomar is the easiest and also the strongest IMO.  

 

The Palomar is not an efficient knot for fluorocarbon lines. Albeit it works for the most part,  it's been proven time after time it is not the most efficient or even close to the strongest knot to use

 

 

Check the last 5 feet of your line often (with any line).  Even grass can fray line if you're in it enough.  Retie every few fish or every couple hours...Even with no visable damage, the line/knots will get stressed.  

 

Agree

 

Line conditioners are useless on flouro, don't waste your time/money.  Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/braid does...So line conditioner will only sit on top of it until it dries out.  

 

Completely untrue.(I'm not even a huge advocate of using it or everything like some but I do understand how it works and the benefits to it.   If you don't understand how KVD Line and Lure works on lines, namely fluorocarbons, don't give the OP nonsensical information to which you haven't been educated yourself on.  

 

You don't need to spend big bucks.  Seagar Red Label is excellent line, I use it almost exclusivly.  BassPro XPS is also excellent.

 

It is stiffer than mono/braid.  You will have to adjust your casting especially on baitcasting gear.  It's not hard, just do it...It will make you an even better caster when you pick up a rod with braid/mono.  

 

Agree. I don't use cheap fluorocarbons but XPS isn't that bad.

 

You don't need to adjust your brakes if you use KVD line and Lure correctly just one time.

[RoLo]

.

Does Fluorocarbon Matter As Much As Companies Say It Does?

 

It matters most to the companies who say it does 

(Doesn't mean a thing to me) 

 

[aavery2]

 I'll admit I didn't wet my line much when using P-Line Floroclear.  Also, I probably didn't pay much attention if my palomar knot was tied correctly.  On the bass I lost when the knot broke, the knot never broke while fighting the bass, only when I pulled the bass out of the water and I grabbed the line a few inches above the hook or maybe a foot or two above the hook.  If the bass jerked any the knot broke.  

So buy some real FC line and tell us about your results, you continue to bring up P-Line Floroclear and your results with it are not relevant to this thread.  Sorry it didn't work for you, try some Seaguar InviszX or something else and report back.

[shanksmare]

Things are not always the way they seem to be or the way others would have you believe they are. In an earlier post I referenced a test done by Glenn Lau which showed that braided line was actually less visible to fish than mono or flouro (at least in clear water with sunny skies). I haven't been able to find the actual picture of the test but here is an article that details the test:

http://www.oklahomabassfishing.com/vic701.html

 

Here  is the meat of the article:

 

We do a lot of things to make our line seem to disappear when it enters the water. From the different colored monofilaments to the use of a water-proof marking pen on the last two or three feet of line before the lure, there are many ways anglers try to hide the most important tool of the trade.

But is it really necessary?

Actually? No. Mentally? It can't hurt.

If you think it helps, then by all means do it. Confidence catches as many fish as skill. And if you think it will help, then it probably will, just by adding to your confidence.

When I started using braided line (Spiderwire to be exact.), one of the main reasons was the line's ability to disappear underwater. Especially under a bright, sunny sky. The video tape that was enclosed with the line showed renowned videographer, Glenn Lau, with a board underwater. Attached to the board were many different sizes and colors of mono line and one strand of Spiderwire. No matter which way the board was turned, towards or away from the sunlight, the monos glistened like a laser beam. The braid was unseen. It had no reflectivity whatsoever.

Do I think it helps me catch fish? Yes, but not because of its reflective properties, but because of its sensitivity. Though it doesn't hurt because the fish can't see it as well as mono.

So next time you're out, do what makes you feel best. Heavy line or light line. It doesn't matter to the fish.....but it does to you!

 

 

I can think of anecdotal evidence that both supports and contradicts the article, so .... Food for thought!

[Tywithay]

Things are not always the way they seem to be or the way others would have you believe they are. In an earlier post I referenced a test done by Glenn Lau which showed that braided line was actually less visible to fish than mono or flouro (at least in clear water with sunny skies). I haven't been able to find the actual picture of the test but here is an article that details the test:

http://www.oklahomabassfishing.com/vic701.html

Here is the meat of the article:

We do a lot of things to make our line seem to disappear when it enters the water. From the different colored monofilaments to the use of a water-proof marking pen on the last two or three feet of line before the lure, there are many ways anglers try to hide the most important tool of the trade.

But is it really necessary?

Actually? No. Mentally? It can't hurt.

If you think it helps, then by all means do it. Confidence catches as many fish as skill. And if you think it will help, then it probably will, just by adding to your confidence.

When I started using braided line (Spiderwire to be exact.), one of the main reasons was the line's ability to disappear underwater. Especially under a bright, sunny sky. The video tape that was enclosed with the line showed renowned videographer, Glenn Lau, with a board underwater. Attached to the board were many different sizes and colors of mono line and one strand of Spiderwire. No matter which way the board was turned, towards or away from the sunlight, the monos glistened like a laser beam. The braid was unseen. It had no reflectivity whatsoever.

Do I think it helps me catch fish? Yes, but not because of its reflective properties, but because of its sensitivity. Though it doesn't hurt because the fish can't see it as well as mono.

So next time you're out, do what makes you feel best. Heavy line or light line. It doesn't matter to the fish.....but it does to you!

I can think of anecdotal evidence that both supports and contradicts the article, so .... Food for thought!

Fish don't see the dark line, they see the silhouette. What humans see and what fish see/feel are very different. That's why people use dark colored baits in clear water.

[Logan S]

 

The Palomar is not an efficient knot for fluorocarbon lines. Albeit it works for the most part,  it's been proven time after time it is not the most efficient or even close to the strongest knot to use

Regardless, the point is tie them carefully...I particularly like the palomar because there's not a lot of line to move/twist when you tie it.  Friction when tying is a huge knot killer.  Any of the popular knots will work provided you do it properly, I'll stick to the palomar.

 

 

 

Completely untrue.(I'm not even a huge advocate of using it or everything like some but I do understand how it works and the benefits to it.   If you don't understand how KVD Line and Lure works on lines, namely fluorocarbons, don't give the OP nonsensical information to which you haven't been educated yourself on.  

 

I know how it works on lines .  Flouro doesn't absorb water like mono/copoly does...So in essence what you are doing is simply lubricating your flouro with L&L.  Maybe that helps some people?  On mono it absorbs into the line and makes it more manageable (incidentally, you can get the same effect by soaking it in water, AKA fishing with it for a few dozen casts).  For the record, I've used it...I didn't find any changes on flouro.  

 

For the OP and anyone else interested, I found this article a while ago to be very interesting.  It's good breakdown of mono/flouro from a somewhat scientific standpoint.  The whole article is a good read and related to this discussion, but for what we are talking about here, pay close attention the paragraph on Water Absorption .  

 

http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html 

(I'm not affiliated in anyway with this site, just found it on the net and bookmarked it)

 

 

You obviously have a different opinion than me, that's OK.  Like I've said multiple times, don't let me stop you!  Someone reading this thread can look at all the information and make their own decision on what to try/not try.  No such thing as too much information.  The biggest mistake you can make is thinking you've already learned everything.  

 

 

 

A lot of fisherman stay away from fluoro because of talk like this...Where people say you NEED to buy 'quality' AKA expensive line, treat it with magical spray, tie the special knot, etc, etc, etc, ......I like to point out that it's really much simpler than that.  

 

Buy flouro.  Spool it up.  Cast a few times and adjust your methods if you have trouble.  Catch fish.  Retie/replace as needed.  

[Team9nine]

Back on the two originally proposed questions:

 

1. Does Flourocarbon Matter As Much As Companies Say It Does?    - NO -
2. Does fluorocarbon really make that much of a difference in the amount of fish you catch? - In some instances where you take advantage of its strengths, yes.

IMHO...

 

-T9

[Tywithay]

Back on the two originally proposed questions:

• Does Flourocarbon Matter As Much As Companies Say It Does?
• Does the fluorocarbon really make that much of a difference in the amount of fish you catch?

What companies say that fluorocarbon matters? Every company produces multiple lines and generally doesn't promote any single one. I've heard fishermen touting fluorocarbon, never a company.

If you think it helps you catch more fish, then you'll catch more fish. Confidence in your equipment is important out on the water.

[thehooligan]

Never understood all the hate on flouroclear.

 

Ive used that line religiously the past few years. 6lb for finesse fishing, 10-12lb for casting gear. Landed a personal best 5lb pike on 6lb line, and 10lb muskie on 10lb line.

 

Tie a proper clinch knot and your good to go...

[Tywithay]

Never understood all the hate on flouroclear.

Ive used that line religiously the past few years. 6lb for finesse fishing, 10-12lb for casting gear. Landed a personal best 5lb pike on 6lb line, and 10lb muskie on 10lb line.

Tie a proper clinch knot and your good to go...

I used it for a couple years and never had an issue. I just upgraded to better lines nowadays. I'd still use fluoroclear without question. Still not sure why people think it's fluorocarbon though.

[thehooligan]

I used it for a couple years and never had an issue. I just upgraded to better lines nowadays. I'd still use fluoroclear without question. Still not sure why people think it's fluorocarbon though.

 

I think your general consumer just see's flouro in the name. most likely has no idea its a copoly.

 

 

Im giving sunline another chance, just picked up a spool of 7lb sniper for my alde with the ktf spool. I feel like it'll be a good match.

 

I tried tatsu and sniper in the past, i can justify sniper, tatsu is over the budget though. $37 for 200yds of flouro is a bit much...

 

And this is coming from someone that doesnt typically budget himself when it comes to fishing, lol.

[A-Jay]

 

http://www.bigindianabass.com/big_indiana_bass/the-truth-about-fluorocarbon.html 

(I'm not affiliated in anyway with this site, just found it on the net and bookmarked it)

 

 

 

 

Thank you for posting this link ~

 

  Good Stuff right there.

 

A-Jay