Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Matt - I didn't like Sniper my first go round either, 10 lb test. I decided to try it again in twelve and absolutely love it. I think different diameters provide different results. That coupled with the right reel makes a difference. I originally had it on a Zillion, now on a T3. Proved to me that the 3D braking is more than a gimmick, so it was a win win. Regarding the line conditioner comments, I found using it on fluorocarbon yealds little advantage. Stretching the line in the drink works much better. Plenty of current where I launch so it's my first stop with a fresh spool. And I've had zero problems with a Palomar knot. Just step it as suggested above. I've had more problems with an improved clinch. I tie direct, no leaders

Posted

Here is a good read on fluorocarbon lines from TT. Take a look and you might find out a few things you didn't know.

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbontest.html

http://www.tackletour.com/reviewfluorocarbon2.html

 

 

 

  I'm going to try Seaguar InvizX in 8lb.  From reading those two sites and from what I've been reading from other sites - my best knot will probably be the improved clinch knot.

 

  I did some knot tests last night (very rough and un-scientific) using my new InvizX 8 pound line and trying to lift my ten pound tackle back with a hook and the fluoro line.  Using a palomor knot, the knot seemed to break at the knot or right on top of the knot.  Tried a uni knot (not sure I tied it correctly) but that knot slipped.  Then I tried the simple improved clinch knot and that knot held.  

Posted

  I'm going to try Seaguar InvizX in 8lb.  From reading those two sites and from what I've been reading from other sites - my best knot will probably be the improved clinch knot.

 

  I did some knot tests last night (very rough and un-scientific) using my new InvizX 8 pound line and trying to lift my ten pound tackle back with a hook and the fluoro line.  Using a palomor knot, the knot seemed to break at the knot or right on top of the knot.  Tried a uni knot (not sure I tied it correctly) but that knot slipped.  Then I tried the simple improved clinch knot and that knot held.  

 

It's worthwhile to add in the San Diego Jam knot. Myself and others use it on fluorocarbon with great success.

  • Super User
Posted

That's strange that the uni slipped. It's a type of cinch knot. The more you pull,the tighter it gets. How many wraps did you make?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

What is it about 'Fluorocarbon' threads that always become immersed in Knot-Typing??

Maybe it's just me, but I have zero-tolerance for any line material that has zero-tolerance for me.

 

Roger

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

What is it about 'Fluorocarbon' threads that always become immersed in Knot-Typing??

Maybe it's just me, but I have zero-tolerance for any line material that has zero-tolerance for me.

Roger

Yeah, if something requires work; better to just give up.
  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Roger I think it always comes up because in order to take advantage of the great characteristics of fluorocarbon the knot is key. It is not a deal breaker for me. I know that if I tie a San Diego jam knot, wet it properly, and cinch it down carefully it is not an issue. For those who are not conscientious about getting the knot right every time fluorocarbon is unacceptable. It is like punching with a light wire hook using heavy braid and blaming the line when the hook fails.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

Yeah, if something requires work; better to just give up.

 

"Work" is tying your own jigs, reloading your own cartridges, portaging over large stretches of dry land,

creating your own contour charts and camping far from electricity. Those are just a few of the jobs I love.

When it comes to dealing with wiry line that forms untrustworthy knots, I'm going to leave that 'work' for you   :wink3:

 

Roger 

  • Like 2
Posted

That's strange that the uni slipped. It's a type of cinch knot. The more you pull,the tighter it gets. How many wraps did you make?

 

 

 I'm not sure.  I'll try it again and see how it holds up.  

Posted

It's worthwhile to add in the San Diego Jam knot. Myself and others use it on fluorocarbon with great success.

 

 

 Is the San Diego Jam knot good for light fluoro like 8lb test?  

  • Super User
Posted

Is the San Diego Jam knot good for light fluoro like 8lb test?

Yes.

Posted

I am going to say no, fluoro doesn't matter all to much. Maybe in really clear water is will be less visible, but there isn't any really clear water around me so I don't worry about it. I hear a lot about slack line sensitivity, and while I agree that this is true, I don't feel it is really that big of a deal. You can feel slack line bites just fine with mono/copolymer, and if a fish takes your bait, you will know it. There is no way I would shell out $15+ for 150 yds of line. Line that is slightly more sensitive, but casts worse and has poor manageability and knot strength. The cons outweigh the pros. that being said, id buy fluoro if it was priced similarly to mono lines. I see all these fluoro lines priced over $20 and it really makes me wonder what kind of profit margin these companies are getting. Especially lines like tatsu, JDM fluoros, etc. Some guys say it doesn't make sense to spend hundreds on rods and reels yet cheap out on line, but I think it does. Line is basically disposable. Your rods/reels aren't.

  • Super User
Posted

I am going to say no, fluoro doesn't matter all to much. Maybe in really clear water is will be less visible, but there isn't any really clear water around me so I don't worry about it. I hear a lot about slack line sensitivity, and while I agree that this is true, I don't feel it is really that big of a deal. You can feel slack line bites just fine with mono/copolymer, and if a fish takes your bait, you will know it. There is no way I would shell out $15+ for 150 yds of line. Line that is slightly more sensitive, but casts worse and has poor manageability and knot strength. The cons outweigh the pros. that being said, id buy fluoro if it was priced similarly to mono lines. I see all these fluoro lines priced over $20 and it really makes me wonder what kind of profit margin these companies are getting. Especially lines like tatsu, JDM fluoros, etc. Some guys say it doesn't make sense to spend hundreds on rods and reels yet cheap out on line, but I think it does. Line is basically disposable. Your rods/reels aren't.

A good fluorocarbon doesn't manage, or cast, any worse than mono. It also has much, much better abrasion and UV resistance. That means less retying and you don't have to respool as often. A $25 spool of fluorocarbon will last 3x-5x longer than mono, evening out, or saving money, in the long run. I still use mono quite a bit, but it's not really any cheaper; if you use good mono.
Posted

People try fluorocarbon once, have a bad experience, and pretty much give up and call it a day right then and there. I can't speak as to the lighter test. I use 12 and 13, and 15lb for primary use. The only mono that will closely match the casting ability of a quality fluorocarbon is Sunline Defier, and the cost is pretty much a wash. I'll use the fluorocarbon where I can benefit from the low stretch and slack line sensitivity.

Posted

"Work" is tying your own jigs, reloading your own cartridges, portaging over large stretches of dry land,

creating your own contour charts and camping far from electricity. Those are just a few of the jobs I love.

When it comes to dealing with wiry line that forms untrustworthy knots, I'm going to leave that 'work' for you   :wink3:

 

Roger 

They say if you are doing a job that you love, then it's not work!

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

They say if you are doing a job that you love, then it's not work!

 

Exactly!

Fluoro & I had an affair in the mid 90s, but I've since fallen out of love   :smiley:

 

Roger

  • Like 2
Posted

Exactly!

Fluoro & I had an affair in the mid 90s, but I've since fallen out of love   :smiley:

 

Roger

Tatsu is some great stuff! Problem is is that I have to save my pennies to be able to afford it! LOL

  • Super User
Posted

Exactly!

Fluoro & I had an affair in the mid 90s, but I've since fallen out of love   :smiley:

 

Roger

 

Roger with the exception of my wife and family I have found love to be a fleeting thing. I am still in the early "infatuation" stage of my relationship with fluoro. :eyebrows: One thing is certain: When it comes to fluorocarbon, love it or hate it, the topic always makes for interesting discussion. 

  • Super User
Posted

Roger with the exception of my wife and family I have found love to be a fleeting thing. I am still in the early "infatuation" stage of my relationship with fluoro. :eyebrows: One thing is certain: When it comes to fluorocarbon, love it or hate it, the topic always makes for interesting discussion. 

 

The fishing line industry has never been more technological and competitive. Any 'bad' fishing line today,

would go the way of braided linen and braided kevlar. I actually remember when my dad dried out his braided linen

after every fishing trip. He wrapped it on a loom he fashioned in our backyard (as a kid, I was puzzled by this ritual).

 

Today’s anglers are spoiled rotten, and of course that includes me, someone whe grew up with Cuttyhunk & catgut..LOL.

Every line material has its Pros and Cons, and every angler has his own individual tolerances and intolerances

for different line properties. The upshot of course, is an eclectic mix of opinions. Differences of opinion notwithstanding,

is the fabric of debate and forum. As you stated Kirby: "This topic always makes for an interesting discussion”.

 

Roger

Posted

I used 100% fluorocarbon yesterday evening from the bank. No bass caught, bad weather this weekend. 8lb on my spinning reel. I could tell right away FL is more stiff and you can feel every little tap. I felt light taps I never felt with mono. Also sinks very fast. I hope to give it a proper try next weekend from my kayak. I shall see how this 8lb line holds up compared to mono. I do have faith in mono, 6, 8, 10 and 12lb mono.

Posted

  What is the proper way to test fishing line and knots?  I took some of that 8lb Invixz line and tied one end to a hook using different knots and cut off about 2 to 3 feet of line.  Then I hooked my tackle bag and grabbed the other end with my hand (using a glove).  I weighed my bag fist and it was 10 pounds.  The line broke every time before it lifted it off the floor.  Then I took out some stuff and got my bag around 8 pounds and line still broke.  Then I took out more stuff and got it around 5 and 3/4 pounds.  I could then lift the bag but when I slowly bounced it up and down the line would break.  

 

 Now what's the deal?  Shouldn't this eight pound line be able to hold a six pound bag and not break?  Was my line too short?  Do I need more than 2 and 1/2 feet when I test line?  

  • Super User
Posted

 So what line do you use know? 

 

For largemouth bass: Berkley 30 lb Trilene Braid (tied direct)

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.



  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.