MUCH rod help (advice) needed

[justtrying]

ok guys, i've modded, re-modded, & modded the re-mods, so, i guess "that time" is here.

"that time" - time to build one from scratch.

i re-modded a st croix ultra lite, really liked the results, but, it was only 6' long.  ....i want a "top of the line, first class"  ultra lite,  6'6" - 7" long.

unlike a lot of you guys, i'm not rich, but, i don't want money to be a factor w/this rod.

i'll be  using it for pan fish, throwing small beetle spins, roadrunners, etc..  . i plan to put a 1000 stella on it, spooled w/2-4 lb YZ ultra soft.

i'd like a really nice, sensitive, blank.  ..also, really light, strong, guides, and, a reel seat that i'll finish similar to the one Triton Mike put on his reel that he displayed on the "let's see some custom sticks" thread.

now, what do i need?   EVERYTHING!!!!   ...i have sandpaper, files, thread, threadmaster, paint, and That's IT!  i dont' even have broke rods to make "reaming" rods from (but, i may have some after this project! Wheeeeeee.)

it's gonna be my first, "from Scratch" rod.  ..i want it to be good.  i dont' want to throw money away, but, i don't want to look back later & think, "man, for five dollar more, i could have.......etc., etc.,

i know this will take a lot of your time & effort, & if you think it's asking too much, then, i'll understand.  ..i'll just appreciate Anything you can help (advise) me with.

so, in advance, THANKS, for any input.

[flechero]

Ronnie,

I'm glad the time has come!

By the way... Who you calling rich?!?!?!? ...lol I'm no where near it, but I'm dedicated when it comes to saving for fishing gear!! ...lol

I'm afraid I don't have any experience with a blank like you want... so the best I can do on a blank suggestion is to only point out some types to look at. St.Croix SCIII, IV, V; CTS Tournament series; IMX, GLX, Shikari SHX are all high quality and light weight. Remember that there is a bigger difference in the weight of the components (and decorations) that you will add on, than there is between most of those blanks so the weight of the blank may not be the best determining factor.

You only need a few cork rings, so I'd go with Andy's burl, even though it's a little heavier than regular cork... I believe the quality negates a few grams of weight.

A graphite skeleton reel seat is both light weight and cheap.

Guides are a tougher one... Ti frames are VERY expensive in those large spinning sizes but there is a potential to shave some weight also. If you can stand the looks, the REC recoil guides are the lightest and also less expensive and more durable than the traditional Ti frames w/ ceramic rings.

For that rod, you should only need one reamer, the size small, from cabela's or mud hole... If memory serves me, it's under $10. But if you have a large round rasp, it will do the job... just go slow and check fit often.

The whole time I am typing this, I keep going back (in my mind) to the blank. That would be a good question to post on the .ORG site... many of those guys build 6'6" & 7' ultra lights and lights so they will have some input and be able to speak about specific models.

Let me know if I can be of any help.

Keith

[flechero]

Hey, I just looked at some of those blanks in Mudhole... since I was looking at some for me anyway.

The SCIII blanks in your spec range are anywhere from .6 oz to 1.2 oz depending on what you like... They don't list the Loomis weights on that site. And my Shikari catalog is AWOL at the moment.

My guess is that the SCIII is probably going to be your best value (for a high end blank). If they are anything like the rest of the SCIII line up, I doubt you'll be able to get much lighter or better performing without spending a lot of cash. And if you do your part on the build... I seriously doubt you would ever look back at it and say something like "I wish I would have used a different blank."

Having said all that, I would at least call Andy Dear and talk to him about the CTS blanks before ordering something else. The few I have held and "wiggled" have been extremely light and very impressive. They fall in about the same price range as the SCIII or a few dollars more but it's withing a few %.

[justtrying]

thanks keith,

i've had family over the last few days, so, my "quest" is kind of on the back burner right now, but, i'm trying to think out the things i'll need.

your ideas sound pretty much along the line of what i'd thought about.  i'll probably wait a few days & see what other input i get, then, my plans are:

1) call 2 or 3 companies & talk w/person(s) who sell equipment (andy, bingham ent.,  etc.)

2) also, as you suggested, put my request on the .ORG site

3)"re-check" some guides - the Allpro rods i have all have titanium guides & i really like them ...in the oposite direction, i Don't care for the recoil guides, like the ones on the loomis..they may be good, but they just look & feel Cheap.

4) i'm also debating reel seats - most of my spinning rods have tennessee handles (that i've split) and, i like the size (grip) of them.  if i go w/the one like t mike has (to make it lighter), i'll probably build it up w/tape or something to make it more comfortable.  ...this is probably the hardest decision i'll have to make.

anyway --- these are just some things i'm tossing around before i begin ... what i BETTER be worried about is wrapping those guides near the tip on that small rod.  man, i have a problem with the end wraps, esp. if there's a few different color decorative wraps.

THANKS for the help!

ronnie

[vtbassin]

;D Sounds to me like you are ready ;D Just do it! ;D I built my first 3 rods this past winter/spring.  They are not perfect but I think they are great 8-)

I do not think you will regret it or have too hard a time.  You already have tried out some of the skills modifying.  I also do not think you can go wrong with the SCIII.  Just pick out the blank to fit your needs, power/action.  Look for sales at the web stores.  There are a lot of places that sell SCIIIs.    I got a good deal on the ones I purchased.

[Guest DavidGreen]

justtrying,

Keep this link book marked on your PC for future reference when ever you need blank info for St.Croix it will help.....

Spinning and Casting Blanks

Tight Wraps!

[justtrying]

justtrying,

Keep this link book marked on your PC for future reference when ever you need blank info for St.Croix it will help.....

Spinning and Casting Blanks

Tight Wraps!

thanks, i sure did bookmark it - it's one of the things i was really looking for

...btw - i sent in an app to bingham & mentioned you.  ..sent in company's info w/license, etc., to get set up so i'll be ready when i finally order some equipment.

[Guest DavidGreen]

justtrying,

That's great, Karen is a great person and has always (17 years now) bent over backwards to help me. I think that you will be pleasantly surprised with her customer service.

Tight Wraps!

[MickD]

If you haven't yet made your decisions, I may have some info of interest.  I made a rod for my son last Christmas, and he absolutely loves it.  Friends who have tried it also rave.  I am going to make one just like it for me.

Blank:  St Croix SC V 7 foot medium action # 5S70MF. If you prefer medium light action use #5S70MLF.  I think for most spinning work the MF is best.  Blank will cost $140 from most places, buy in next few days from Cabelas and they will give $20 off on a special promo.  One piece blank will cost + $10 to ship.  Use their credit card for "bonus bucks" that  may be redeemed for Cabelas stuff.  Make sure you ask for the brown, 2006 blank, not the old spruce green one.  If they don't know what you are talking about, talk to customer service for fishing and the people there know and can give you the proper number to order.  If buying from a local shop, just make sure you and they are talking about the 2006 brown blank.  If you don't do this you will get the old 2005 green blank.

Guides:  Use American tackle titanium frame/nanolite rings available from Cabelas or Jann's Netcraft.  Fuji SIC guides with aluminum frames are great also, but more costly.  SIC is a little harder, nanolite is much tougher.  Will cost about $50 for Am Tackle , but will keep the rod really light.  The rod I made only weighed about 2.4 ounces.  The blank weighs 1.7.  Guides are the most important element in making a really nice rod ,after the blank.  Don't put low quality (heavy/soft) guides on a premium blank.  Save up and do it right.

St Croix blanks have a lifetime warranty, but St Croix doesn't advertise it much, so go to their website to register the blank.

I use Cabelas premade 9 inch cork rear grips and 3.5 inch front grips.  Will add another $20 to the bill.

Put a nice hook keeper on it.

I used brown thread without color preservative and the windings take on the color of the blank, almost disappearing.  I like the understated look.  I have found the Cabelas two part rod finish does a great job on giving nice glossy smooth windings.  I have a rotating device to keep the rod turning until the stuff hardens.  Prevents droops.  Check eBay to buy one if you want one.  I bought the motor and shaft connector for about $15 and attached a tuna can to insert the butt into to provide the turning torque. Look at the premade ones and you can see how simple it is to cobble one.

For a real seat both Cabelas and Janns have a nice woven graphite seat in brown color, looks really sharp with the brown blank.

This rod will cost about $200 to make, retails premade for $310, but the premade one doesn't have titanium frame nanolite guides, so what you build will be better.

The two easiest mistakes to make in building a spinning rod are: 1.  not locating and setting the blank spline properly to the guides.  If in doubt, write me and I'll get you a resource. and 2.  Not locating the reel seat properly relative to the guides.  Once built, these problems are either impossible or very difficult to fix.

Mick

Rod making is one of the most rewarding pastimes I have.  

[roadwarrior]

Welcome aboard!

There sure is a lot of technical information in this first post. I hope you can spend some time in the other sections and share your thoughts on some of the other topics.

Good to have you with us.

[justtrying]

danekM - THANKS for the info.  ...i'm entertaining grandkids today (& will be for the next few days ) ..so, i can't look into all this stuff right now, but, Very Soon ... ..actually, i've got three on the table that i'm bulding now, so, i'll be busy for awhile  ...but,. again, thanks for all the info.

ronnie

oh, yeah, as roadwarrior said, WELCOME to the site...

[MickD]

I gave some bad info yesterday.  the 7 foot SC V rod I made weighed 4.2 oz, not 2.4.  With the components I used, the rod will weigh about 2.5 ounces more than the weight of the blank.  The cork weighs about .9 oz, the reel seat about 1.1, the guides about .3, and the epoxy, masking tape shim, and winding finish about .2.

The rod is still a dynomite rod!

I weighed a 7 foot old Shakespeare Ugli Stick today, and it weighed 5.4 ounces.  Seems like that extra ounce between the St Croix and the Shakespeare means a lot , because I don't think I could go back to the Ugli Stick.  Of course there is a lot more to it than weight, the St Croix sensitivity is in another league from the old Ugli Stick.

I made a Cabela's XML 7 foot fast action, medium light power, rod recently, using gold Fuji SiC guides, not titanium frame, and the rod weighed 3.7 ounces.  Other components same as the St Croix.  Looks like the XML blanks are really light, too.