Better Reel For Light-Weight Lures? Baitcast Or Spinning?

[new2BC4bass]

^^Thanks for all the advice everyone.

 

I don't think it's the spool as the reels are practically new.

 

I'm not sure what a roll cast is. I'm using a Cabela's XML MH.

 

Do you think switching from fluoro to mono would help? I chose fluoro because I read it's probably the best line use for worm fsihing.

 

That rod is rated for 1/4-1 oz.  It should be fine for 12" worms, especially with any weight added.  I previously used a 7' MH Original rated 1/4-3/4 and a 7'MH Jupiter rated for 1/4-1 oz.  This year I used a saltwater rod....a 7' ML Hurricane Redbone rated for 3/8-3/4 oz.  I had no problem casting a 10" worm and 3/0 hook on 40# braid.  Reel was a Patriarch XT.

 

As already stated, light lures on a baitcasting reel takes quite a bit of practice.  Anyone who says light lures can't be cast on a baitcast reel has never used the correct rod/reel combo.  I don't own one of the new finesse reels.  Can't afford one.  Currently I am casting 3/16 oz. Shad Raps on 3 different rods using 2 different brand reels.  I feel quite certain another of my rods and another of my reels will also handle 3/16 oz. with no problems.  I've tried 1/8 oz., but I need more practice at that weight.  Both distance and accuracy sucked.  However, I know it can be done with that weight.

 

My guess is that you need to invest in more time practicing.

[new2BC4bass]

The roll cast explained:  http://www.another site.org/bassfish/bassboard/fishing_tactics/message.html?message_id=309347

 

Watch some videos of just about anybody using a casting rod.  I know KVD uses the roll cast most of the time....from the videos I watched of him.  I normally cast 2-handed.  I use the roll cast almost on every cast...even overhead casts.  It keeps the rod tip loaded throughout the cast.  One of the posters in the link I gave mentioned it was for short to mid-range casts.  That is bull as far as I'm concerned.  Whenever I am casting from shore I am almost always casting for distance.  The roll cast serves me just fine, thank you. 

[Stasher1]

I can go down to a weightless 5" senko with no problem on a baitcast. Took some time to learn the right brake number and how to thumb the line but now no problem. Also let the lure/plastic hang about a foot off your rod before casting. This should give you some distance. Lighter than a weightless senko I use a spinning reel which I actually grew up on. If you put the line on correctly, it really minimizes line twist.

As Raul mentioned, a 5" Senko rigged on a 3/0 ewg hook weighs roughly 3/8 oz, as does a 7" Power Worm rigged with a 1/8 oz weight and a 3/0 ewg hook. If you can't cast either of these with your baitcaster, you need more practice or a better reel.

The OP's problems are most likely a combination of poor thumb control and inexperience setting up a baitcaster.

[Tim Kelly]

I think the problem is the general advice for people to tighten up the tension on the spool so that the bait drops slowly. I have always set up my baitcasters so that it is just tight from the spool having any side to side movement. That way the spool is free to spin as fast as it can. The brakes are then set to cope with the situation, and usually they're a set and forget deal once you've got it dialled in. You have to learn to use your thumb a bit, but not that much, and you have to learn to cast smoothly. If you're trying to get the bait out further there's a tendency to try harder and the cast becomes more snatchy, which usually results in trouble. If you have to reel set up properly and cast smoothly you should be able to go from pitching to a full length cast without difficulty, though will probably have to unpick a few backlashes each day, though they shouldn't be too deep, but a slight lack of attention of sudden gust of wind can catch everybody out.

 

If the spool is set too tight you just keep pushing the cast harder and harder to get distance and it becomes more snatchy and less successful. The reel needs to be free enough to be able to achieve the cast you're trying to make.

[Jrob78]

I think the problem is the general advice for people to tighten up the tension on the spool so that the bait drops slowly. I have always set up my baitcasters so that it is just tight from the spool having any side to side movement. That way the spool is free to spin as fast as it can. The brakes are then set to cope with the situation, and usually they're a set and forget deal once you've got it dialled in. You have to learn to use your thumb a bit, but not that much, and you have to learn to cast smoothly. If you're trying to get the bait out further there's a tendency to try harder and the cast becomes more snatchy, which usually results in trouble. If you have to reel set up properly and cast smoothly you should be able to go from pitching to a full length cast without difficulty, though will probably have to unpick a few backlashes each day, though they shouldn't be too deep, but a slight lack of attention of sudden gust of wind can catch everybody out.

 

If the spool is set too tight you just keep pushing the cast harder and harder to get distance and it becomes more snatchy and less successful. The reel needs to be free enough to be able to achieve the cast you're trying to make.

This is how I set up my baitcasters too.  I always have some side to side play in my spool, not a ton but some.  I might turn my brakes up to 9 or 10 on Mag Z reels or 3 brakes on with Shimanos but that's what the brakes are for.  I like my reels to feel loose.  I often get line blowing up during a cast only to have the brakes pull it back in at the end of the cast.  This probably isn't the way a beginner should set up a reel but it works for me.  I do have to use a fair amount of thumb and do get backlashes occasionally.  

[tstone]

I agree with the last two posts. Use the spool tension knob just to remove side to side play in the spool. From there crank up the brakes and start casting. Back off the brakes a little with each cast until you're happy with the way it casts and doesn't over run.

[new2BC4bass]

I agree with the last two posts. Use the spool tension knob just to remove side to side play in the spool. From there crank up the brakes and start casting. Back off the brakes a little with each cast until you're happy with the way it casts and doesn't over run.

 

I didn't mention spool tension in my other posts, but this is also how I set my reels up.  The first year I used a baitcaster I was using too much spool tension in order to control my backlashes (plus high brakes).  I sent a few reels to a guy for cleaning that winter.  He told me tension was so tight he couldn't cast a 1/4 oz. weight.  However, I don't think setting the reels this way (just enough tension to remove side-to-side play) is as easy as the previous 3 posters seem to think.  I know it wasn't for me.  Once set that way I had to almost learn how to use a baitcaster all over again.

 

I suggest taking a seat, loosening the tension, let the lure drop, and try feathering the spool.  Try with both hands.  I found out right away that I could feather better with my left hand....BUT I am right handed.  At that time I continued to cast on the right side.  I eventually taught myself to cast on the other side.  After 6 years my right thumb is starting to be a little more effective, but any time I have a combination of reel/rod/lure that is causing me to backlash or overrun, I switch to the left side.

 

Smoothness is critical anytime.  Going light with too much spool tension forces you to power the cast.  Not good because lots of times technique suffers.  You lose that smoothness.