New Minn Kota Motor- A Non-Starter

[mrlewp87]

"At my wits end here. It's all new- the EDGE 70 bow-mounted motor, the 2-12V batteries, connections and 60 amp breaker. All except for the 8 gauge power cable running from helm to bow. I took great care, using heavier than required wiring between batteries, and leading to the breaker. All connections clean and tight.

Using a digital meter, I tested the red and black power lines, finding just 1 or 2 tenths of an ohm per wire. Voltage measured across the 2 batteries- 25.3V. Voltage measured from the bow's new* motor receptacle- 25.3V !

It's all good, right? Wrong. Tried all power settings on the foot pedal, and all operating modes. Nada!

The breaker doesn't have a "TEST" button, as your home GFI outlets do. I hoped to find it needed a Reset. There's only a very small flexible part on top, which seems to be an enclosed switch or lever?, but it makes no click sound.

It's taken me several months to get around to installing it. There's no returning it now. Ordered online. I refuse to suspect the motor a lemon- which I can't even think about, a true nightmare. So, other than that....... ??? The only things I know to do- connect to the batteries and breaker, minus the below-deck wiring, even tho' that wiring tested fine. Is there any fuse or not too obvious weak link I might have missed?

[Wayne P.]

If you are getting the same voltage at the receptacle and the batteries, you don't need to "test" or reset the circuit breaker.

 

Set the speed control to the highest setting and hold down on the "go" button for about 10-20 seconds. Then feel the receptacle and wires at the battery to see if any are HOT to the touch.

Any hot spots indicate a faulty connection.

[paleus]

Are you sure your plug is wired right? You may be able to read 24V but it not be connected like the trolling motor needs it to be.

[mrlewp87]

Tried holding power on already to check for hot or even warm motor/ wires.  The old plug had black, blue, and yellow (pretty sure).

Regardless,  I wired new plug black 2-black, red 2-red. Matches all around- wires from battery compartment, new plug set, and wires from TM pedal.

I again went underside of the pedal, and this time was able to confirm the same 25.3V at various points. I noticed that the clips on at least 5 connections could be "wiggled". That didnt seem right to me, and I was hopeful I was onto something. I removed, then re-attached perhaps 7 all told, after crimping them for a tight fit.  Alas, no change.  It is so emphasized to use certain gauge wiring for these rigs, and for ex., even 6 g. min.(?) for the 12V- to 12V+ between 2 batteries. I used 4 gauge. Battery to bow is 8 gauge. But then to look into the pedal- you see these very small wires running to the TM, and find loose fitting clips!!  Go figure!??

I moved to the batteries, as I was bad.... letting them site for a few months. I KNOW!!?? But they sit around in the stores, dont they??  (ok, there's the temp control inside the store. Is that It!?)  Anyway, having been off the onbaord charger for about 6 days, I tested the fluids using a hydrometer.  About half (6) were right on 1.225, while the other 6 varied from 1.218 (guesstimate), to 1.235.  Not a concern with the range differences, but other than that, not sure what I can make of it all.  On the tester, these values were in the FAIR range, I guess because the 2 batteries measured 12.66V, and 12.68V.  I believe that's in the 75% charged range. Surely they'd still be pushing the TM under actual usage, if a bit slower.  I'm sure these factors were a bit higher a couple days ago when I first tried, and failed to see the thing operate.

I almost removed the head of the TM, to see if anything obvious leaped out at me.(besides the spiders and frogs here, that seem to be everywhere!!)  A fuse? Disconnected / loose clip?  I'm about to head out and take the motor to a repair guy to check it out. Should I have at least separated the 2 shaft parts, and tried to test for voltage on any down-bound wiring?
 

[Tim Kelly]

Just a dumb question, but the switch on the pedal is set to momentary or constant, not "off" is it?

[mrlewp87]

Not at all a dumb question.... (What he's really thinkin' is "Hey, dumb-dumb! Did ya check ......?" Haha. Just kiddin there, pal)

I tried every combination, Momentary / Constant+ Speeds 1 - 5, and of course holding down the foot switch.

BTW, I also measured for OHMS on the power wheel, and tested any switches for on/off modes. The ohms readings for powers 1-5 were a bit confusing, not dropping or rising consistently. But then I'm not aware of

the nature of its operations with all the circuits involved.

That 4 gauge, 19in. cable from 1st bat- to 2nd bat+, one end has the standard auto battery type clamp. I'm not even gonna entertain that being an issue. Starting a vehicle requires a great deal more amperage, does it not? (ALL connections new, and clean!!)

[Wayne P.]

Turn the prop by hand to determine if it will rotate somewhat freely.

Sometimes the magnets get knocked loose in shipment.

[KevO]

^{Did you check the voltage at the trolling motor?  I had issues with my trolling motor this past weekend and spent way too much time figuring it out.  It is possible for your plug to be bad.  With your motor on constant put your multimeter leads into the plug wires from the trolling motor.  you can also do it through the head by pushing the probes through the heat shrink at the connections.  Also your batteries at 12.66v are fully charged.}

 

^{*re-read where you saw 25.3v at the trolling motor foot.} 

[Tim Kelly]

Not at all a dumb question.... (What he's really thinkin' is "Hey, dumb-dumb! Did ya check ......?" Haha. Just kiddin there, pal)

I tried every combination, Momentary / Constant+ Speeds 1 - 5, and of course holding down the foot switch.

BTW, I also measured for OHMS on the power wheel, and tested any switches for on/off modes. The ohms readings for powers 1-5 were a bit confusing, not dropping or rising consistently. But then I'm not aware of

the nature of its operations with all the circuits involved.

That 4 gauge, 19in. cable from 1st bat- to 2nd bat+, one end has the standard auto battery type clamp. I'm not even gonna entertain that being an issue. Starting a vehicle requires a great deal more amperage, does it not? (ALL connections new, and clean!!)

I nearly had a "moment" caused by the off position once, which is why I asked. LOL

 

Did you test continuity through the switch?