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Posted

All my life I've stuck with bait casters with centrifugal brakes.  The few times I've gotten mag controlled reels I've quickly given them up.  I'm trying them again and would like to find more success with them.  I never seemed to get the same amount of control without sacrificing distance.  Any tips on casting style or mag settings?  

  • Super User
Posted

Which reel / reels are you trying? I know Diawa and the Magforce Z is very good with distance, I have not used their Magforce 3D yet .... Magforce V and regular Magforce really are over breaking systems.... I have had a couple of Magforce V reels that were exceptional but mostly no... After I got almost all my fishing rods/ reels jacked... I replaced many with shimano... They were just cheaper for me to do.

Posted

Yes which brand reels are you using. The Daiwa MagForce-Z braking system is amazing. I never did like the magnetic braking systems on Abu Garcia reels and could never consistently cast with them.

  • Super User
Posted

There are obvious differences between magnetic and centrifugal braking.   There are also some less obvious,  it is important to understand how magnetic braking effects the spool of your reel during the cast compared to centrifugal braking. Centrifugal braking has the most effect on spool speed during the beginning of the cast.  Centrifugal braking relies on the high RPM of the spool to force the brake tabs outward and against the brake hub.  This provides for more control during the start of the cast.  As the spool speed slows the tabs do not have as much centrifugal force to  deploy and the braking is reduced.  This is where your thumb helps to finish off a perfect cast.    Magnetic braking is very different, it applies a constant steady force to the spool  throughout the entire casting sequence.   During the beginning of the cast when the spool speed is the highest, the magnetic brakes have their least effect on the cast.  When the spool speed is high it can overcome the magnetic force that is being applied to the spool and cause some nasty problems at the beginning of the cast.   When the speed of the spool begins to slow the magnetic braking has the most effect on the spool  and provides a more controlled spool speed. 

 

Many anglers prefer centrifugal braking for casting distance where you are throwing baits that benefit from long distance casts, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and rattle traps come to mind.  Spool speed is high and the centrifugal brakes help control the spool speed.  Magnetic brakes work well with pitching and flipping, where spool speeds are not as high, and the magnetic force has good control over the spool. These speeds may be too low for the centrifugal brakes to have much effect.

 

Obviously these braking systems will work for either type of casting, you only need to understand where you will need to use your thumb more to help control the cast.  Centrifugal at the end of the cast and magnetic at the beginning of the cast.  One thing that will aid in being successful at casting long distances without backlash using magnetic brakes is a smooth casting action, don't snap your wrist as hard during the beginning of the cast and generate that very fast spool speed, steady smooth cast will get you a very good distance with magnetic brakes without backlash.

 

IMHO the best of both worlds is dual braking, you have some control over how much braking you would like at the beginning of the cast and also at the end.

 

Hope this helps, good luck with your transition as you call it.

  • Like 6
  • Super User
Posted

aavery2 pretty much summed it up.  I have at least 4 or 5 Daiwas that I don't need to make adjustments to when changing lures or for changing wind conditions.  I have other Daiwas that require minor changes to either the brake or spool tension, and on rare occasions to both.  I did learn on Fuegos with my 2nd casting reel model being a Gen 1 STX.

 

I did a lot of casting practice last year after June 1, and thought I was getting pretty good.  Just got back from my vacation to Florida.  At home I never have to worry about someone behind me.  Most of my casting is done standing up.  In Florida my casting is done sitting in the front of a 14' square stern canoe.  It took me 4 days to start getting a decent casting stroke.  I knew what I was doing wrong, but that knowledge wasn't helping.  The jerk on the rod's reversal caused me all kinds of problems.  Smooth is definitely the key word with magnetic brake reels, but important regardless of brake configuration.  One of the reels I was using was a dual brake reel, and I had as many over-runs with it as I did my Daiwa reels.  However, by the 2nd week I was out distancing my brother-in-law's spinning reels.  He thinks b/c reels cast further than spinning reels.  :teeth:

Posted

Which reel / reels are you trying? I know Diawa and the Magforce Z is very good with distance, I have not used their Magforce 3D yet .... Magforce V and regular Magforce really are over breaking systems.... I have had a couple of Magforce V reels that were exceptional but mostly no... After I got almost all my fishing rods/ reels jacked... I replaced many with shimano... They were just cheaper for me to do.

 

Daiwa Lexa with standard Magforce.  I intended to buy the Tatula but found it less comfortable to palm.  Of all the mag braked reels I had tried in the past the Sol and TD-S gave me the less problems. Zillions, Quantum and many low profile Abu's gave me the most.

 

There are obvious differences between magnetic and centrifugal braking.   There are also some less obvious,  it is important to understand how magnetic braking effects the spool of your reel during the cast compared to centrifugal braking. Centrifugal braking has the most effect on spool speed during the beginning of the cast.  Centrifugal braking relies on the high RPM of the spool to force the brake tabs outward and against the brake hub.  This provides for more control during the start of the cast.  As the spool speed slows the tabs do not have as much centrifugal force to  deploy and the braking is reduced.  This is where your thumb helps to finish off a perfect cast.    Magnetic braking is very different, it applies a constant steady force to the spool  throughout the entire casting sequence.   During the beginning of the cast when the spool speed is the highest, the magnetic brakes have their least effect on the cast.  When the spool speed is high it can overcome the magnetic force that is being applied to the spool and cause some nasty problems at the beginning of the cast.   When the speed of the spool begins to slow the magnetic braking has the most effect on the spool  and provides a more controlled spool speed. 

 

Many anglers prefer centrifugal braking for casting distance where you are throwing baits that benefit from long distance casts, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and rattle traps come to mind.  Spool speed is high and the centrifugal brakes help control the spool speed.  Magnetic brakes work well with pitching and flipping, where spool speeds are not as high, and the magnetic force has good control over the spool. These speeds may be too low for the centrifugal brakes to have much effect.

 

Obviously these braking systems will work for either type of casting, you only need to understand where you will need to use your thumb more to help control the cast.  Centrifugal at the end of the cast and magnetic at the beginning of the cast.  One thing that will aid in being successful at casting long distances without backlash using magnetic brakes is a smooth casting action, don't snap your wrist as hard during the beginning of the cast and generate that very fast spool speed, steady smooth cast will get you a very good distance with magnetic brakes without backlash.

 

IMHO the best of both worlds is dual braking, you have some control over how much braking you would like at the beginning of the cast and also at the end.

 

Hope this helps, good luck with your transition as you call it.

Thank you I think that is what I was looking for.  Do you find that with a mag braked reel, you tighten the handle side cast control knob more, less or the same as with a centrifugal braked reel?

Posted

I tighten mine more when its a mag brake reel. I might as well not have a cast control knob on my shimanos as it is hardly screwed on.

  • Super User
Posted

I have my mag reel knobs really loose and centrifugal reels tighter. I use 1 break on my centrifugal reels and my Tatula stays on 6 pretty much all the time. My Tatulas do have bearing upgrades that make them run a little faster. With my stock Tatula it was 4-5 on the dial.

  • Like 1
  • Global Moderator
Posted

There are obvious differences between magnetic and centrifugal braking.   There are also some less obvious,  it is important to understand how magnetic braking effects the spool of your reel during the cast compared to centrifugal braking. Centrifugal braking has the most effect on spool speed during the beginning of the cast.  Centrifugal braking relies on the high RPM of the spool to force the brake tabs outward and against the brake hub.  This provides for more control during the start of the cast.  As the spool speed slows the tabs do not have as much centrifugal force to  deploy and the braking is reduced.  This is where your thumb helps to finish off a perfect cast.    Magnetic braking is very different, it applies a constant steady force to the spool  throughout the entire casting sequence.   During the beginning of the cast when the spool speed is the highest, the magnetic brakes have their least effect on the cast.  When the spool speed is high it can overcome the magnetic force that is being applied to the spool and cause some nasty problems at the beginning of the cast.   When the speed of the spool begins to slow the magnetic braking has the most effect on the spool  and provides a more controlled spool speed. 

 

Many anglers prefer centrifugal braking for casting distance where you are throwing baits that benefit from long distance casts, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, and rattle traps come to mind.  Spool speed is high and the centrifugal brakes help control the spool speed.  Magnetic brakes work well with pitching and flipping, where spool speeds are not as high, and the magnetic force has good control over the spool. These speeds may be too low for the centrifugal brakes to have much effect.

 

Obviously these braking systems will work for either type of casting, you only need to understand where you will need to use your thumb more to help control the cast.  Centrifugal at the end of the cast and magnetic at the beginning of the cast.  One thing that will aid in being successful at casting long distances without backlash using magnetic brakes is a smooth casting action, don't snap your wrist as hard during the beginning of the cast and generate that very fast spool speed, steady smooth cast will get you a very good distance with magnetic brakes without backlash.

 

IMHO the best of both worlds is dual braking, you have some control over how much braking you would like at the beginning of the cast and also at the end.

 

Hope this helps, good luck with your transition as you call it.

I can't add anything of value to this...

Pretty much nailed it

Very Well Said!

Mike

  • Super User
Posted

Daiwa Lexa with standard Magforce.  I intended to buy the Tatula but found it less comfortable to palm.  Of all the mag braked reels I had tried in the past the Sol and TD-S gave me the less problems. Zillions, Quantum and many low profile Abu's gave me the most.

 

Thank you I think that is what I was looking for.  Do you find that with a mag braked reel, you tighten the handle side cast control knob more, less or the same as with a centrifugal braked reel?

 

Me personally I find that I need just a little more spool tension, as it helps control the spool startup speed where magnetics have a little more problem.  What makes the difference is how aerodynamic the bait is.  Spinnerbaits, require more, baits like a rattle trap seem to require a little less. The secret is to keep a nice smooth casting motion and let the rod and reel do its stuff.

Posted

Start by holding the rod at 135º angle (your feet is 0, head is 180, straight out is 90) and adjust your spool tension until the bait slowly falls all the way to the ground. Turn your mag brakes to half way (usually 5). Now give it a cast. If it falls short and feels like there is too much breaking, back it down to 4, then 3, etc, until it backlashes or gets to the point where you cannot control it well. The only time you will need to go over 5 is if you are throwing into a stiff headwind and trying to get a long cast. 

  • Super User
Posted

Daiwa Lexa with standard Magforce.  I intended to buy the Tatula but found it less comfortable to palm.  Of all the mag braked reels I had tried in the past the Sol and TD-S gave me the less problems. Zillions, Quantum and many low profile Abu's gave me the most.

 

 

What is the TD-S?  I'm very surprised to read the Zillion was more problematic.

 

 I will no longer buy any casting reel that doesn't have Magforce Z.  It is the most simple and effective system I've used by a good margin.  

Posted

What is the TD-S? 

 

TD-S and TD-X were pre TD-Z which was a precurser to the Zillion.

  • Super User
Posted

TD-S and TD-X were pre TD-Z which was a precurser to the Zillion.

Yep... Had all those reels... Plus zillions , Fuego, sol, I still have one TDS .... Great reel

Posted

Let me add that on my centrifugal reels I used at most 2 brakes with pretty much no cast control knob tightness. I also had a few tatulas and for the life of me I had to have that cast control knob pretty tight, I'm not much of a magnetic brake guy though...

Posted

Magforce is your best bet if you want to go purely magnetic.  I think it's better to go to a dual braking system that makes use of both magnetic and centrifugal forces rather than going to 100% magnet from 100% centrifugal.  Magforce Z 3D is best dual braking system I've found, and yes, it is dual braking.  Centrifugal forces generated by the rotation of the spool extend the inductor closer to the magnet to increase breaking. 

Posted

Took the T3B out today and gave the Curado and Metanium a rest. Some observations, magnetic is far more sensitive to wind changes and lure changes.  Got a few blow ups and they were the kind that took at least 2-3 minutes to fix. As with anything you just need time with the system to develop your skills with it.

  • Super User
Posted

Tips For Transitioning From Centrifugal To Magnetic Brakes?

Started by 0119, Today, 09:38 AM

WHUT ?

  • Super User
Posted

I can say that I have had no problems for the little I have used my TD-S and TD-X.  My Zillion 50th Anniversary is one of the reels that I sat and forgot.  My Zillion 100SHLA is one I have to make minor adjustments on.  My factory Fuegos cause very little trouble, but my factory Sol has with light lures.  I'm in love with my Purple Alphas reels.  :respect-059:

 

Contrary to what seems to go against logic is that my upgraded reels are all set with lighter brakes than the factory reels.  A person would think that better bearings and what little polishing can be done to a Daiwa would make it touchier.  Tied for 1st place with the lightest brake settings are on a tuned and upgraded TD-Z 105H and Fuego, next a tuned and upgraded Sol and then a factory TD-Z 103HL Type R.  On the rest of my Daiwas I imagine the brakes are set much higher than 99% of you set yours although I do run them with minimum spool tension the vast majority of the time.

 

OP, I am afraid I can't really give you any tips for casting further with a magnetic reel other than to tell you to practice.  I have 2 older Chronarchs and a Curado 51E.  My brakes are set higher on these than any of your Shimano reels.  I feel like I am in the same situation as you except reversed.  I simply need to practice more with the Shimanos although the 51E does real well even with the higher than normal brake setting.  :teeth:

  • Super User
Posted

TD-S and TD-X were pre TD-Z which was a precurser to the Zillion.

Thank you.  I've seen them but didn't know what they were labeled.

  • Super User
Posted

Took the T3B out today and gave the Curado and Metanium a rest. Some observations, magnetic is far more sensitive to wind changes and lure changes.  Got a few blow ups and they were the kind that took at least 2-3 minutes to fix. As with anything you just need time with the system to develop your skills with it.

I must cast different then, because I never change my T3's or Tatula's for lures or wind. I just set the tension tight enough to remove any side to side movement of the spool, set the mag on 6, and cast whatever it is. I don't even have to use my thumb with those settings.

Posted

I must cast different then, because I never change my T3's or Tatula's for lures or wind. I just set the tension tight enough to remove any side to side movement of the spool, set the mag on 6, and cast whatever it is. I don't even have to use my thumb with those settings.

I went from a 1\2 oz chatterbait to a weightless flick shake on the all around setting. Not sure what the mag dial was on but I did turn it up a few clicks because of the change in weight and adjusted the spool tension and it gave me the worst blow up of the day. Had to give the mag dial a few more clicks. Stopped the blow ups but the distance was cut dramatically.

Posted

I just set the tension tight enough to remove any side to side movement of the spool, set the mag on 6, and cast whatever it is. I don't even have to use my thumb with those settings.

For 30+ years I've always kept a ever so slight side by side movement in the spool.  It's always worked for me until I tried the Revo's which I could never dial in to get distance and keep from birds nests.  

Posted

Tips For Transitioning From Centrifugal To Magnetic Brakes?

Started by 0119, Today, 09:38 AM

WHUT ?

 

Yeah.... I've been struggling with a bad wrist and thumb injury that just won't go away.  Dr.'s o.k.ed me to try using baitcaster's again(never really stopped 100%).  But he and I agree that I won't be holding my favorite Ambassadeurs much again.  It's not so much there weight as it is my not being able to open my hand wide enough to operate the thumb bar or thumb the spool during the cast.

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