Wet Sanding For Oxidation

[blackmax135]

The oxidation on my boat has gotten pretty bad and to make it worse its a black boat.  I got some 3m rubbing compound and 800 grit 1000 grit and 1500 grit sandpaper. Started with the 800.  After sanding i rubbed the compound in until the swirls were gone.  Then put a good coat of turtle wax over that.  It looks great but i can see the sanding swirls in it, but can only see up close.  Looks awesome up against the rest of the boat.  Any one have advice before i do the rest of the boat ive seen another forum that kinda gave me an idea.  In other words i just don't wanna ruin my boat. (i only did a 1 ft section just to try it out) Thanks

[200racing]

what about trying 1500 then 3000 grit. that 800 might be leaving some bigger scratches that you see.

[blackmax135]

I guess ill try that out i saw somewere the 800 to 1500 somewere so i went with that. Thanks

[Way2slow]

800 is too course. Gel coat is hard and getting that deep of a scratch out is going to take a lot of sanding with finer grits to get them out. It also takes a lot of that thin top layer of clear gel off and you will get down to the metal flake easily. If you hit the metal flake, it's going to start leaving little shiny specks for every flake you hit.

I would not start with anything courser than 1,000 grit, then work up with 1,200 and 1,500 and 2,000. Unless it's in pretty rough shape, I would start with 1,200 grit.

Make sure you understand that top clear coat is thin. The more you take off, the sooner the color coat and metal flake underneath is going to be exposed, and once it's to that point, it's hard to keep a shine on it and the flakes start loosing their color.

[gobig]

I agree that you should start with 1000 and see how it goes. I would start with 1000 if you don't have much experience its easy to cut to deep. I used 800 on my salt water boat in a few spots just to cut it faster but stay back from hard lines if you do this. Work through each grit up to the 1500 and then use a good polishing compound.  Get the 3m pads for finishing, you will be glad you did.  

[blackmax135]

Alright guys thanks for the advice.  ill throw that 800 out and start out with the 1500 were the oxidation isn't so bad.  By the way im doin this all by hand lol. 

[200racing]

Alright guys thanks for the advice.  ill throw that 800 out and start out with the 1500 were the oxidation isn't so bad.  By the way im doin this all by hand lol. 

[Fishing Rhino]

Finish buffing with a "swirl remover".  Keep the buffing pad clean, and mist the surface often with clean water, using a spray bottle.

 

Then, use a cleaner glaze to finish the job.  Once done, apply a carnauba wax or other finish that has a UV inhibitor, and apply periodically to protect from the sun's rays.  The UV rays are what causes oxidation.

 

Buffing compound abrasives "break down" as you use them, becoming finer and finer.  Keep the surface misted, but not dripping wet.  When the surface hazes over, mist again.  The misting cools and lubricates.  You want to avoid heat build up, so use a slower speed when buffing, and keep it moving.  To finish, use a higher speed, and less pressure.  Be sure to keep misting the surface.

 

It will take a while, so be patient, go slowly.  You will develop a feel for speed and pressure.

 

Use the buffing compound sparingly, apply light pressure, and keep the buffing pad as flat as possible on the surface.  Do not buff using the edge of the pad, as that will produce the worst swirls.

 

The less gel coat you remove, the better.  If the finish starts to look worse as you progress, STOP.  The gel coat has become too thin to "hide" the laminate beneath.