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Posted

I have seen the term cranking rod used a fair amount lately but have no idea what it really means.

Obviously, based on the name, I assume it is a special setup just for crank baits. What are the characteristics of this setup? Is it a certain length or strength of rod? A specific kind of reel? Or some combination of both?

Also, are cranking setups generally bait casters or spinning?

Could someone please enlighten me?

Posted

Yes, they're for crankbaits. Generally it refers to a moderate action rod. Some people prefer glass rods for this, but not everyone. As for the reel, different people have different preferences, but often a lower gear ratio reel is used. The moderate action rod helps you keep the fish hooked on and not rip the treble hooks out of its mouth. The low ratio reels some people prefer are, I believe, to keep the crankbait at the desired depth longer.

I'm sure someone can correct me if I misspoke on any of that.

 

Edit: And I forgot to specify that a baitcast combo is much more commonly used for this than spinning.

Posted

I'll only use a low gear ratio for deep divers sometimes. I use a 6.4 for most of my cranking.

 

Same here actually. I don't really use deep divers fishing from the bank anyway. So my cranking setup has a 6.4 ratio.

Posted

So are these set ups used for lipless cranks too, or is something else needed for that?

Also, what weight and type of line are typically used in these set ups?

Posted

I have a cranking rod for my lipless cranks because I like the extra distance I feel like I can throw them. I also feel like the softer tip helps me play the fish better and not let them get off the hook. Line can vary from person to person. For me, I like mono or copoly 10-12lb (mainly because diameter is not as important in this situation, and those types of lines are way cheaper than fluorocarbon) for shallow cranks that are rated to go 5ft or so. When I am throwing cranks that are rated for 10ft or deeper then I go to 10lb fluorocarbon. The smaller diameter gets the cranks down deeper.

  • Super User
Posted

So are these set ups used for lipless cranks too, or is something else needed for that?

Also, what weight and type of line are typically used in these set ups?

They can be, but it depends on how you plan on fishing them. Since a lot of people rip them out of the grass, a cranking rod with moderate action probably isn't the best. If you do, you will most likely be jerking much harder to apply enough force to get it to rip out of the grass instead of pulling the gas with it. 

 

Line choice will differ a lot. A lot of people throw heavier line with shallow running crankbaits and less line with deeper divers . A smaller line diameter will help get the bait deeper. I use 12lb Berkley 100% fluoro for both shallow and deeper cranking.  

  • Super User
Posted

Yes, they're for crankbaits. Generally it refers to a moderate action rod. Some people prefer glass rods for this, but not everyone. As for the reel, different people have different preferences, but often a lower gear ratio reel is used. The moderate action rod helps you keep the fish hooked on and not rip the treble hooks out of its mouth. The low ratio reels some people prefer are, I believe, to keep the crankbait at the desired depth longer.

I'm sure someone can correct me if I misspoke on any of that.

 

Edit: And I forgot to specify that a baitcast combo is much more commonly used for this than spinning.

 

On spot!

Posted

OK, so last question.  What is the most common rod length for these kinds of setups?

Rod length is up to you.

 

Most people opt for a 7' rod though to get the extra casting distance

Posted

Deep cranking is one of the few presentations where the longest cast possible is really a benefit. 7-7'6" is what I recommend for "cranking" rods. A med or MH, moderate action is what I usually build for deep diving cranks and a Mod-fast for shallow square bills, and traps around grass. 

Posted

OK, so last question.  What is the most common rod length for these kinds of setups?

The most common is probably between 7' and 7'6".

 

For starters however I would strongly recommend a casting rod on the shorter end of that spectrum for versitility and handling purposes. For cranking, my rods range from 6'8" to 7'11" but anything under 6'10" or over 7'4" are specialty rods that I really only use on certain lakes during certain times of year.

 

Flipsides answer of 7' is great advice.

Posted

You might want to try and find the article Paul elias did on here about crank baits , if I am not mistaken I believe it was like 4 pages of info .. Good read type material . I visit it myself from time to time for a good  refresh .

Posted

Crankbait rods are going to have the appropriate actions required to fish crankbaits without the treble hooks coming unhooked from the fish.  This is typically achieved through the use of rod action and material.  Graphite cranking rods are typically very moderate in action while a fiberglass rod can have some fastness to it's action, even being an X Fast, due to the forgiving nature of the material. 

 

In regards to composite rod material, you are going to see a either a composite construction (graphite blank with fiberglass tip) or composite material (fiberglass with bits of graphite stuck in it).  An example of a composite construction ro would be the BPS Crankin' Stick.

Posted

It is a moderate or moderate- fast action.

 

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