Need Help Tuning My Fishfinders- Hds 8 And Lms520C

[Brian6428]

Hey guys, I recently bought a used '07 Triton Tr176. It came with an HDS8 at the console and a LMS520c up front. I have a few questions regarding both, and any help would be appreciated.

 

HDS-8:

 

1. I can only get StructureScan to work when the outboard motor is running, and it only reads correctly when it is idling. When the motor is turned off it says "No source." Is this how it should be?

 

2. I can only get water temp to show on the Structure Scan screen, not the sonar screen. Any way to fix this?

 

LMS520c:

 

1. I just can't get the water temp to work at all on this one. When I go to turn on digital inputs, water temp appears but it shows as a flashing "32 degrees Fahrenheit." Pretty Sure that isn't right. Any advice?

 

Both:

 

How do you guys fine tune the sensitivity and color line? I want to reduce the screen clutter but still show all the fish and schools of shad.

 

Thanks a ton!

[Jig Man]

1.  That is not normal.  Check the wiring.  It will only read as long as the lss ducer is in the water.  Where is it mounted?

 

2.  Press the sonar page but don't go into sonar.  You should be able to add overlay data so that it will show up on the sonar screen.

 

 

 

1.  Check to be sure you have a ducer with a temp probe on it. 

 

 Set sens in the mid 80s on the 520 then adjust to suit the conditions.

 

I run my hds at -1.

[Brian6428]

1.  That is not normal.  Check the wiring.  It will only read as long as the lss ducer is in the water.  Where is it mounted?

 

2.  Press the sonar page but don't go into sonar.  You should be able to add overlay data so that it will show up on the sonar screen.

 

 

 

1.  Check to be sure you have a ducer with a temp probe on it. 

 

 Set sens in the mid 80s on the 520 then adjust to suit the conditions.

 

I run my hds at -1.

Thanks for the reply. I have checked all the wiring and it all looks good, however I didn't install it so I don't know exactly how it works. The transducer is mounted off the stern below the waterline. Is there any way to check if the 520c ducer has a temp probe? I think it may not, since local time and depth both work perfect but temp doesn't work at all.

 

Thanks!

[Todd Driscoll]

Regarding your StructureScan power, it appears from your description that it was wired through your ignition switch, which is not typical.  StructureScan power must be through a switch or it would stay powered all the time (box doesn't have an ON/OFF button).  Easiest way is to wire it to power up when the HDS is powered up, which you do by wiring the yellow wire on the StructureScan power cable to the yellow wake up wire on the HDS power cable.  Here, the HDS unit is serving as your "switched" power source.  You can also wire the Structure yellow to a separate accessory switch.

 

For 2D sonar, Auto Sensitivity mode works great, and the default Colorline settings work well.

[Brian6428]

Regarding your StructureScan power, it appears from your description that it was wired through your ignition switch, which is not typical.  StructureScan power must be through a switch or it would stay powered all the time (box doesn't have an ON/OFF button).  Easiest way is to wire it to power up when the HDS is powered up, which you do by wiring the yellow wire on the StructureScan power cable to the yellow wake up wire on the HDS power cable.  Here, the HDS unit is serving as your "switched" power source.  You can also wire the Structure yellow to a separate accessory switch.

 

For 2D sonar, Auto Sensitivity mode works great, and the default Colorline settings work well.

Thanks a lot, this is exactly right. I gave Lowrance a call and this is what they said, however the guy on the phone seemed to be in no mood to explain it. Is it alright to leave the ignition key turned when the outboard is off (like the accessory position on a car) when I am using the trolling motor? In other words, I turn the key, hear a loud beep, and the side imaging works. Is it ok to leave it like this? 

 

Thanks!

[Jig Man]

If you leave it on you are draining your cranking battery.  Just trace the wires from the lss box and the ones from the hds and move the lss power wires to the hds connection.  It isn't a hard fix and it needs to be done.

[Todd Driscoll]

No question, rewire your LSS power.  As Jig Man said, it is pretty easy to trace your wires get it right.

[Brian6428]

If you leave it on you are draining your cranking battery.  Just trace the wires from the lss box and the ones from the hds and move the lss power wires to the hds connection.  It isn't a hard fix and it needs to be done.

 

No question, rewire your LSS power.  As Jig Man said, it is pretty easy to trace your wires get it right.

Thanks for the help, guys. The issue is I am beyond lost when it comes to wiring, and have hardly any knowledge of how this stuff is wired up anyways. So, I will trace the Yellow power wire from the structure scan box and disconnect it from wherever it is now, correct? Then I will connect this yellow wire (LSS power) to the yellow wire in the HDS8 power cable, correct? 

 

Is the yellow wire in the HDS power cable currently connected to anything? What do I do if it is?

 

Sorry if I'm being slow about this, but I'm not good at this stuff and don't want to mess up.

[Todd Driscoll]

Thanks for the help, guys. The issue is I am beyond lost when it comes to wiring, and have hardly any knowledge of how this stuff is wired up anyways. So, I will trace the Yellow power wire from the structure scan box and disconnect it from wherever it is now, correct? Then I will connect this yellow wire (LSS power) to the yellow wire in the HDS8 power cable, correct? 

 

Is the yellow wire in the HDS power cable currently connected to anything? What do I do if it is?

 

Sorry if I'm being slow about this, but I'm not good at this stuff and don't want to mess up.

No, the yellow wire on the HDS power cable will not be connected to anything when you trace and find it.  Yes, disconnect the yellow wire on the LSS power cable where it is currently connected, then connect it to the HDS yellow.  You will likely need a foot or so of additional wire to more easily connect the two yellows together.  The red and black on the LSS power cable go to 12 V hot.  This can either be direct from the battery (not through any switch), or through your master power switch at the console.  Chances are the red and black are currently ran through your ignition switch.  If so, you need to disconnect those and rewire as well.  Otherwise, you would still need to have your ignition switch on for your LSS to work.

[Brian6428]

No, the yellow wire on the HDS power cable will not be connected to anything when you trace and find it.  Yes, disconnect the yellow wire on the LSS power cable where it is currently connected, then connect it to the HDS yellow.  You will likely need a foot or so of additional wire to more easily connect the two yellows together.  The red and black on the LSS power cable go to 12 V hot.  This can either be direct from the battery (not through any switch), or through your master power switch at the console.  Chances are the red and black are currently ran through your ignition switch.  If so, you need to disconnect those and rewire as well.  Otherwise, you would still need to have your ignition switch on for your LSS to work.

Thanks Todd, that makes sense. I will get around to doing this as soon as I have time.