Super User Catch and Grease Posted May 15, 2014 Super User Posted May 15, 2014 I feel like since I'm using braid and flouro mostly with my cranks that because there is no stretch it sometimes prevents me from getting a good hook set, I use the correct rod for cranks so that is probably not the problem, the only other thing I can think of is the way I set the hook. I set the hook with more of a tightening up motion by sweeping the rod to my right or left when I feel a strike, is this correct? does anyone use mono for cranks because of the stretch or any other reason? Quote
MacP Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I use mono for everything until about 8 foot depth. Top waters, flukes, jerk baits, shallow/mid cranks all get mono. Fluoro for drop shots, jigs, spinners, plastics, blade baits etc. All my baitcasters have braid to mono or braid to fluoro. All my spinners have straight mono or straight fluoro. Some of my reels are backed with dacron fly backing. Quote
jdl2425 Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I use mono for my cranks and don't have a problem with hook sets. I always make a sweeping motion to set the hook like you stated and typically never have a problem. I use Berkley 8lb sensation on my spinning reel and 12lb trilene for my baitcaster and both work great. Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 The lack of stretch should give you a better hookset if anything. A slow action rod and mono may make hook sets more difficult. I fish a Lami SR 765 with a 4600C3 Ambassadeur spooled with 10# Suffix Elite smoke color line and it works well for me. I'd check the hooks first. Be sure they are sticky sharp. Does the rod you're using allow you to feel the vibration of the bait? Sweep set on anything that disrupts the bait's wobble. I think what some perceive as pulling the bait from the fishes mouth (described as giving them time to eat it) is really the fish taking and spitting the bait. Quote
Super User Catch and Grease Posted May 15, 2014 Author Super User Posted May 15, 2014 I make sure all my hooks are sharp before tying something on, maybe I'm just not sweeping soon enough? Quote
WdyCrankbait Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Yep, I use the Suffix crankbait line for cranking. It's mono, plus I use a Rapala knot, (loop knot) as well to allow for more slack in the line for the bass the ingest. Good luck! Quote
Super User Raul Posted May 16, 2014 Super User Posted May 16, 2014 I feel like since I'm using braid and flouro mostly with my cranks that because there is no stretch it sometimes prevents me from getting a good hook set, I use the correct rod for cranks so that is probably not the problem, the only other thing I can think of is the way I set the hook. I set the hook with more of a tightening up motion by sweeping the rod to my right or left when I feel a strike, is this correct? does anyone use mono for cranks because of the stretch or any other reason? fluoro stretches as much as nylon. Quote
RipSomeLips Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 One thing I would recommend if you don't already do, is to keep your rod tip low and to the side, at a 9 to 10 o'clock position. This is something that has really helped me, when I have it to the side and I get a strike the fish practically hooks itself because the action of the rod loads directly into my line. When I have the rod tip up in the air, or directly in front of me I find that I take away the rods ability to flex and snap back to help with the hookset. Hope this makes sense and helps. Quote
Grantman83 Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 I starts with fluoro and switched to mono because I can't help setting the hook. Mono allows me to put the screws to them and still hook up really well. It helps me to balance my tendencies lol Quote
JGBassinAL Posted May 16, 2014 Posted May 16, 2014 One thing I would recommend if you don't already do, is to keep your rod tip low and to the side, at a 9 to 10 o'clock position. This is something that has really helped me, when I have it to the side and I get a strike the fish practically hooks itself because the action of the rod loads directly into my line. When I have the rod tip up in the air, or directly in front of me I find that I take away the rods ability to flex and snap back to help with the hookset. Hope this makes sense and helps. Exactly. Hold your rod tip towards the water...and don't use braid. Even if you are using a crankin rod the no stretch quality of braid could rip the bait out of the mouth of the fish. I use mono and fluoro, one on each setup. I have 12 lb sunline reaction fluoro on one and 8 lb sunline super monofilament on the other. If I need to get my crankbait deeper I throw it on the 8 lb mono. I have never had a problem with hooksets using fluoro or mono. Although I feel like you have to sweep a little on the hookset with mono, but when I use fluoro just reeling tight and putting pressure on the fish hooks them. And I can't remember who said something about mono and a crankin rod making the hookset harder to accomplish, but I use glass crankin rods which are a lot more flimsy than graphite and I have never had trouble setting the hook with mono. Quote
Super User Deleted account Posted May 16, 2014 Super User Posted May 16, 2014 One thing I would recommend if you don't already do, is to keep your rod tip low and to the side, at a 9 to 10 o'clock position. This is something that has really helped me, when I have it to the side and I get a strike the fish practically hooks itself because the action of the rod loads directly into my line. When I have the rod tip up in the air, or directly in front of me I find that I take away the rods ability to flex and snap back to help with the hookset. Hope this makes sense and helps. Yup, with braid, I just load the rod, don't really "set" the hook. Quote
FlipSide Posted May 17, 2014 Posted May 17, 2014 I use suffix siege for my cranks and I love it. Give you that forgiveness when your instincts tell you to set the hook Quote
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