Best Line To For Anti Back Lashes

[crankcaster100]

I was going to jump on the recent anti fluor post because I've got seaguar invisx on all my bc reels and they are constantly back lashing

I have been spraying KVD LL on them and tighten the brakes with little to no success

Should I switch to mono or braid? ?

Please tell me best line brand and type and I'll try it

Appreciate any help

[FlipSide]

I've never had many issues backlashing since I started using baitcasters but since you are try something a little cheaper to get use to a bait caster

I think suffix siege would be a good start. Use something with a high line diameter. Its easier to cast. I would suggest either 14lb if you can get away with it or 12lb

[iabass8]

braided line would be the most manageable and user friendly line for you.

 

invisX is the most manageable fluorcarbon on the market. if you're new to BC reels, perhaps you need to work on technique before giving up on the line. it's a very easy line to use.

[crankcaster100]

I'm not real new to bait casters but the line keeps wanting to expand while on the reel

Is braid better than fluoro?

[IAY]

I'm not real new to bait casters but the line keeps wanting to expand while on the reel

Is braid better than fluoro?

 

Fluoro and braid have different advantages. Braid is easy to manage because of lack of memory, plus you can get much stronger line with same width as other lines. Fluorocarbon is more invisible than braid by far and it sinks. What application are you using the combo for?

[crankcaster100]

Cranking / lipless / jigs

And swim baits

I use 10 lb braid on my spinning reel and am willing to switch to braid on the casters

What is the best brand and size?

[ak47soulja22]

Power pro 30pounds or 50, spool some mono on first then finish the spool off with power pro. That's my opinion. Suffix is another good braid braid too.

[86se7en]

if your going to go with braid go with sufix 832

[crankcaster100]

Thanks guys

[new2BC4bass]

braided line would be the most manageable and user friendly line for you.

 

invisX is the most manageable fluorcarbon on the market. if you're new to BC reels, perhaps you need to work on technique before giving up on the line. it's a very easy line to use.

 

I have to agree.  Even though you are not new to baitcast reels either the reel isn't set up right or you need to educate your thumb more.  How heavy is the line?  Too heavy might cause problems.  Are you matching line weights and lure weights to the rods you are using?  I don't see mono or copoly lines helping considering you are already using a line conditioner and a soft Fluoro.

 

I am using 10# Spiderwire Ultracast on one reel.  I used KVD when I spooled the line.  Haven't applied any since, yet have no problems with it backlashng after 2 years of use.

[CJV]

I'm a little confused here Seagur and invisx especially is the most manageable fluorocarbon IMO it's one of the softest, limp fluros on the market if your having problems then it's one of two things. 1) operator error. 2) something is wrong with your bc?

[crankcaster100]

It can't be the bc because it's all of them

It could be me

Am I spooling wrong?

[FlipSide]

Cranking / lipless / jigs

And swim baits

I use 10 lb braid on my spinning reel and am willing to switch to braid on the casters

What is the best brand and size?

IMO your gonna want something with a little stretch for the cranks

[Mike L]

It can't be the bc because it's all of them

It could be me

Am I spooling wrong?

Thats my thought..Did you spool it from the top of the spool??

If not the line is on the opposite of how it should be, and that will cause backlash's...

Did you use enough tension when spooling??

Is the line spooled evenly across the spool??

What lb test are you useing??

Too thin of a line will cause a backlash on bc also

Imho, it's not the line by itself.

Mike

[crankcaster100]

I spooled over the top but with good tension

It is slightly heavier on one side of the reels

12 lb

[RipSomeLips]

On 5/11/2014 at 8:00 PM, crankcaster100 said:

I spooled over the top but with good tension

It is slightly heavier on one side of the reels

12 lb

After reading this entire post I can only think of one last thing to ask you: have you watched Glenn's videos on how to set up a BC reel? and more specifically are you backlashing during the beginning of your cast (would indicate your spool tension) or during the end of your cast (would indicate your brake)?

 

Also if you decide to go braid then you will be like me! I have been happy with 20 yards or so of mono (keeps braid from slipping), then suffix 832 in 30lb to 50lb, and finish with a fluoro leader.

[TorqueConverter]

On 5/11/2014 at 8:16 PM, RipSomeLips said:

After reading this entire post I can only think of one last thing to ask you: have you watched Glenn's videos on how to set up a BC reel? and more specifically are you backlashing during the beginning of your cast (would indicate your spool tension) or during the end of your cast (would indicate your brake)?

 

Also if you decide to go braid then you will be like me! I have been happy with 20 yards or so of mono (keeps braid from slipping), then suffix 832 in 30lb to 50lb, and finish with a fluoro leader.

 

Backlashing in the beginning of the cast would we the result of the spool accelerating more quickly than the bait and the resulting excess line becomes the backlash.  Improperly set centrifugal brakes, or an absence of centrifugal brakes (lol magnets) could be as much a culprit as too light of a spool tension.

 

Backlashing towards the end of the cast should only happen if you fail to apply thumb pressure to the spool to bring it to a halt as the lure enters the water, such as loosing sight of the bait and it hits the water with the spool still spinning.  

 

Both overly stiff and high memory line can exaggerate a backlash problem or make a reel that wants to backlash into a backlasher.  I'm guessing the high memory line is coming off the spool easier than it is going through the guides and is causing line to want to buildup at the baitcaster.   

[RipSomeLips]

On 5/11/2014 at 9:16 PM, TorqueConverter said:

Backlashing in the beginning of the cast would we the result of the spool accelerating more quickly than the bait and the resulting excess line becomes the backlash.  Improperly set centrifugal brakes, or an absence of centrifugal brakes (lol magnets) could be as much a culprit as too light of a spool tension.

 

Backlashing towards the end of the cast should only happen if you fail to apply thumb pressure to the spool to bring it to a halt as the lure enters the water, such as loosing sight of the bait and it hits the water with the spool still spinning.  

 

Both overly stiff and high memory line can exaggerate a backlash problem or make a reel that wants to backlash into a backlasher.  I'm guessing the high memory line is coming off the spool easier than it is going through the guides and is causing line to want to buildup at the baitcaster.   

Your description of what happens in a backlash is spot on, however Kevin VanDam and I politely disagree with you at to what the culprit most likely is. 

"The brake is designed to slow the spool rotation at the end of the cast, which reduces overruns when the bait hits the water." - KVD

 

 

[Tywithay]

When you get a small overrun and have a couple loops, do you strip line until the loops are gone and reel it back on tight? If you get a little flare up, then reel over it, the next cast will backlash. Have to always make sure the line is flat on the spool before and after each cast.

[MichBassMan]

Untill you get your backlash issues worked out, I'd use #12 or #14 soft mono. Trilene XL is one of many good ones. It's more forgiving, and it's MUCH cheaper when you have to cut off a half or whole spool of line. With enough "thumb" practice you'll be ready for more expensive options if you so desire.

[new2BC4bass]

A backlash at the beginning of the cast isn't necessarily always because of the brakes or spool tension.  A jerky rod reversal will jack spool speed up causing an instant backlash.  You can have your reel set up perfect, and still backlash it at the beginning of the cast if you aren't reasonably smooth.  Want to know how I know? 

 

12# is an excellent weight.  It is standard on the majority of my MH rods.  I disagree that lighter lines will cause backlasing.  I have 6# on at least 2 reels with no problem.

 

EDIT: 8# mono is my standard for Medium power rods.

[TorqueConverter]

On 5/11/2014 at 9:42 PM, RipSomeLips said:

Your description of what happens in a backlash is spot on, however Kevin VanDam and I politely disagree with you at to what the culprit most likely is. 

"The brake is designed to slow the spool rotation at the end of the cast, which reduces overruns when the bait hits the water." - KVD

 

 

"The brake" is a board term.  I will certainly agree that magnetic brakes do as KVD described.  Magnetic breaking is always more pronounced at the end of the cast.  Centrifugal brakes on the other hand brake most strongly when the spool is accelerating do to the centrifugal forces present.  Centrifugal braking is essentially a spool RPM governor.  The ability of centrifugal brakes to govern spool speed paired with the ability of a magnetic brake to slow the spool towards the end of the cast make for a great overall breaking system.  Magnets rob you of some casting distance but the tradeoff is increased accuracy to present a lure to a target and the ability to filter out the wind when the wind is pushing your baits past their targets. 

[michang5]

Take it from someone like me who has an absolutely stupid thumb and has struggled with backlashes...

Your line brand and diameter are fine. I've used 15# Invizx and am now using 12# Seaguar Red Label.

If you're certain you spooled in the correct direction and with a fair amount of tension, then it's likely one of three things:

1) Are the baits/lure you're throwing too light? I seldom get backlashes throwing a 1/2oz Rat-L-Trap, C-rig (with 1/4oz or 1/2oz weight, bead, et al), or 5" senko. Anything lighter and I still backlash -- especially if it's windy.

2) Set spool tension and brakes tighter than you think. With my Tatula, I use the Glenn technique of backing off my brakes and adjusting tension until my lure just starts to fall. BUT THEN I TIGHTEN THE TENSION A HAIR OR TWO. The bait now doesn't fall until I really shake my rod tip. Then I set the brakes to half (10 out of 20 clicks on Tatula).

You may not get full casting distance, but you should not backlash even if your lure travels max distance and hits with water without you thumbing the spool. You can then back off your brakes a bit and see if you can eke a bit more distance.

3) Your thumb may be dumb like mine. Someday I'll be able to pitch a short distance into cover and not backlash, but my thumb is currently too stupid. Maybe it's because I've only started fishing in July and got a baitcaster in November, but I just forget to thumb the spool consistently.

I like fishing with my two spinning rods and only use my baitcaster for cranks and c-rig. It excels at those applications, so I been able to overcome my poor technique.

[jhoffman]

Only five people on this forum know how to cast properly, the rest of us are still too dumb to figure it out. No one is saying that directly, but thats what theyre basically implying.

 

There are lines that dont manage well. How exactly does one spool a baitcaster backwards, the spool only spins one direction. Its not like you can take it out and turn it around. Id honestly, not being a wise guy like to see how thats done.

 

I find it amazing that you can take the same exact rod setup, change line, not change anything as far as brakes or spool tension and suddenly you dont have any problems.

 

Ive tried every fluoro under $20, I never went as far as sunline. Odd that I can manage some of the heaviest mono on the planet without feeling the line grenade off the spool mid cast. Even when youre not backlashing you cant feel the stuff come off the spool like crazy and tame back out before the end of the cast? None of my mono or braid lines do that. The only time I could get the stuff to be reliable is with extreme braking or spool tension.

 

Im out there to fish, not see if I can spend all day making micro adjustments every time I change a lure for what minimal benefits flouro might offer. I can pick up a rod, wing a heavy spinnerbait, turn around and tie on a 1.0 and make the same casts with no need to adjust the rod much if at all.

 

Problem is, until someone figures out a way to mount a camera on a rod, show the brake settings with no editing of the video then we will never really know whats true.

 

Me personally, I dont have time for the headache, it makes me not even wanna fish so I join you in your frustration and I didnt just start bass fishing yesterday.

 

Ive seen flouro make a difference in ultra ultra clear water where I am fishing size 18 or smaller nymphs on fish that have been stood over all day(artificial steelhead fisheries). Ive never seen it bass fishing. Ive also seen good flouro leader turn to crap after being exposed to sun.

 

Theres so much around flouro its hard to find what to believe.

 

To answer:

 

I like the following

 

McCoy Mean Green

Berkley Big Game

Suffix 832

[crankcaster100]

Thanks for the input guys

I went to Dicks after work tonight and picked up 600 yards of 30 lb 832

I'll let you know how it works for me