Tim Kelly Posted April 13, 2014 Posted April 13, 2014 Ok, so I finally broke down and bought a pack or two of these after reading how they are the perfect tube hook. I couldn't see how they rigged from looking at them, so I thought I'd buy some and see how it works in real life. I must have missed something obvious, but I can't get them to work very well. On the you tube vids people insert the hook through the middle of the nose of the tube, then out and under, through and leave it with the eye of the hook in the tube, the keeper barb below the tube and the point laying flat on top. I don't see how! The eye of the hook is in line with the point and the bulk of the tube is such that if you push the whole keeper through the hook point is angled down towards the tube body, not parallel to it. Should I be putting the point through the top of the tube head, keeping the keeper barb inside the tube and only using inside weights? I can't see how to Texas rig a tube with this hook. Quote
Knightiac Posted April 13, 2014 Posted April 13, 2014 I assume you are talking about the TK190? I love those hooks. I put the hook through the top of the tube, then out about 1/4" down. I always rig my tubes above the keeper on these hooks. I actually fish craws with them too and for those sometimes I will leave the craw on one of the divets, holds them a little better around brush. Quote
hatrix Posted April 13, 2014 Posted April 13, 2014 I just use normal trokar flipping hooks. I leave the hook point inside the tube though. They are so sharp they will pop through zoom super tubes and those are pretty dense and thick. Quote
Super User smalljaw67 Posted April 13, 2014 Super User Posted April 13, 2014 I don't T-rig tubes a lot but when I do I use the Trokar TK-190 and rig it the same way Knightiac does, no problems , the best thing is the hook up percentage, awesome hook for tubes. Quote
Tim Kelly Posted April 13, 2014 Author Posted April 13, 2014 Is the eye of your Trokar in line with the point? I wonder if I just need to open them out a little bit as if the eye is inside the tube the tip of the point is pointing at the eye and not lying flat on the tube as yours appears to be. Quote
Knightiac Posted April 13, 2014 Posted April 13, 2014 I usually skin hook the outside, it appears it came out a little bit when I took the picture. To be honest, I can't remember at the moment but I believe the eye is inside the tube. When I get home I will try and double check. Quote
Knightiac Posted April 13, 2014 Posted April 13, 2014 I just read your OP again and I understand your thinking. I believe it could be because I use a smaller tube. Pictured is a bass pro shops 3 1/2" tender tube, if you are using a thicker tube it may create problems rigging it that way. Try putting the hook not through the middle, but an 1/8" or 1/16" from the middle and see how it rigs - I think you should be able to line it up straight. I never have an issue and I use bigger tubes every once in a while. Quote
TTS Posted April 14, 2014 Posted April 14, 2014 Knightiac, what size hook is in the picture? Thanks, Tom Quote
Knightiac Posted April 14, 2014 Posted April 14, 2014 Tim Kelly, The eye is inside the tube on that rig. I did not bend the hook outward at all, I just hold up the tube to the hook before rigging it and see where I need to go through the tube, works perfect every time. Like I said, on bigger ones try inserting the hook a little closer to the outside (not exactly in the middle) if you have an issue. TTS, That hook in the picture is a Trokar TK-190 size 2/0. I am a bad judge when it comes to the sizes of these hooks, but I just came back from BPS with a pack of 3/0 and 4/0 and made sure. The tube is a 3 1/2" Tender Tube made by BPS. I like the slender body style more than traditional tubes. Quote
TTS Posted April 14, 2014 Posted April 14, 2014 Knightiac, thanks. I was looking for a hook for smaller 3.5" tubes. I use 3/0 or 4/0 EWGs for 4'+ tubes. Might try a larger size TK-190 for those too. Tom Quote
Tim Kelly Posted April 14, 2014 Author Posted April 14, 2014 Thanks, I'll go and have a play again, but I can't help thinking that if I open up the gape a bit it will be a better mousetrap.... Quote
5fishlimit Posted April 15, 2014 Posted April 15, 2014 Thanks, I'll go and have a play again, but I can't help thinking that if I open up the gape a bit it will be a better mousetrap.... You'll lose it a lot quicker if you do open it up. It will hang up on the first available thing. Quote
Tim Kelly Posted April 15, 2014 Author Posted April 15, 2014 OK. Here are a couple of pics. The blue/green tube is a standard zoom 3.5" tube and the brown one is a 3.75" Gitzit. The top hook is one that I've opened up slightly, so the point of the hook is a little above the eye, the bottom hook is as they come in the packet and the point is in line with the eye. I put the standard hook in the zoom and it's just about OK, but you can see the point is angled into the body of the tube a little. The opened hook I put in the slightly thicker Gitzit and it lies perfectly flat along the top of the tube. This looks to me like it will be a better hooker and more like how they are designed to be used. Am I missing something obvious? Quote
5fishlimit Posted April 15, 2014 Posted April 15, 2014 The tube on the bottom - the one you didn't widen - actually looks like the hook point is sitting better. The top tube has a gap between the barb and the tube. Quote
Tim Kelly Posted April 15, 2014 Author Posted April 15, 2014 The one at the bottom is the one that's been opened up. That's my point. I should have put the hooks the other way round in the first picture for clarity. Quote
5fishlimit Posted April 15, 2014 Posted April 15, 2014 The top hook is one that I've opened up slightly, so the point of the hook is a little above the eye, the bottom hook is as they come in the packet and the point is in line with the eye. I'm not trying to start an argument with you, but this is what you wrote... The top hook being open. When that is in the tube there's a gap by the barb. It's my opinion that you don't need to bend out the hook, but if you feel it will help you then go for it. I've been using these hooks for some time now, and never have an issue in rigging them effectively. Quote
Tim Kelly Posted April 16, 2014 Author Posted April 16, 2014 Thanks for your input. It's my fault for swapping the hooks round between the pictures which has led to your confusion. Quote
FrankW Posted April 16, 2014 Posted April 16, 2014 Hi Tim, I think you have it figured out now but here are my thoughts. There is no need to open up the hook. It works great the way it comes in the package. These are super tube hooks and I use them a lot. I use 4" tubes with a solid head. Rigged just like Knightiac's picture. If you lay the hook on top of the tube so the point lays parallel to the tubes body then you can see the exact angle to enter the head. I think the solid head is a lot better for this hook. Frank Quote
Koofy Smacker Posted April 17, 2014 Posted April 17, 2014 Opening certain hooks definitely has it's place. But this is not one of those applications. Let it sit as close to in line as possible. The purpose of this hook is to fish the tube weedless which opening it up defeats. You can never really tell through pictures alone Quote
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