T_Nix35 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Posted February 28, 2014 My assessment is that what is commonly thrown around for deep cranking setups do work and work very well, enough to the point where it doesn't need to be questioned to use pool cue_like power. Well, my assessment is that if everyone followed the exact thing the next person was doing and wasn't trying new stuff out we would never have any innovation in fishing. Just think about it, if no one ever tried anything different we couldn't possibly have the amount of different rigs or newer innovative rods we have on the market today. Sometimes being different pays out in the end, and sometimes it doesn't. My idea is extremely different, but if I can get it keyed in to where it helps me stay in the strike zone longer I do believe I will catch more fish then most. Being different may be a bad thing in the eyes of some people, but to me taking risk and trying new things could possibly give me an edge. Tight Lines My Friend, TCN Quote
Super User tomustang Posted February 28, 2014 Super User Posted February 28, 2014 1. How do you know you casted further if you don't have another rod to compare to? The moderate action gives a better load on the rod when throwing baits, it doesn't hurt it. 2. Cranking on the bottom sends off a lot of feedback even if you're using lifeless rod. 3. Snap casting, whipping the bait with the rod in the beginning of the cast can create overrun, it's a sign you aren't using the right combination. You can get around it if you 'fan cast' but when you do that you are being gentile so you can get something out of wrong match up. A good example is when I throw 1/8oz jig/grub on a heavy rod, it is not easy but is manageable. Quote
T_Nix35 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Posted February 28, 2014 1. How do you know you casted further if you don't have another rod to compare to? The moderate action gives a better load on the rod when throwing baits, it doesn't hurt it. 2. Cranking on the bottom sends off a lot of feedback even if you're using lifeless rod. 3. Snap casting, whipping the bait with the rod in the beginning of the cast can create overrun, it's a sign you aren't using the right combination. You can get around it if you 'fan cast' but when you do that you are being gentile so you can get something out of wrong match up. A good example is when I throw 1/8oz jig/grub on a heavy rod, it is not easy but is manageable. I own a MH BPS Extreme 6'6", and it is what I have been throwing all of my crank baits on for a long time. Unfortunately the reel I had on it went out on me for the second time, so I don't use it that much anymore. Also I stepped up my game and bought some nicer setups and honestly hate using the BPS rod now because it is not the same. I know that it being a short rod affects my casting distance, but I also own a 7' M Duckett that I have thrown a crank bait on a few times. So from comparing these two rods is how I knew it cast further. Just to clarify, when you say moderate action I think of the taper of the rod and the bend that it has when loading the bait. For example, a moderate action in my eyes has a more parabolic bend compared to my fast action which only loads or flexes on the last 1/3 of the rod. Now, my hypothesis is that my stiffer rod with a fast action shoots the bait faster towards my target from the loading point due to my heavier power rod wanting to get back to its original shape faster then a medium power would, even if they both had the same action. Think about it, on a heavy rod it takes more resistance to bend it from its original shape compared to a medium power rod. So, the more resistance there is the faster the velocity of the bait shooting from the loading point. I know this sounds wild, thats because it is wild. It makes sense in my head though, that is why I am giving it a try! I am not set on this theory, I am merely experimenting instead of going out and buying a new setup. If it works I can hold out for a while and save some cash. As for the sensitivity of running a crank bait on bottom it seriously is like nothing you have ever felt while cranking before. Like I said, I have other rods and have used them for DC. The denser heavy rod does send vibrations better through it than a less dense medium rod, I can promise you that. That is one reason a heavy rod is great for pitching and flipping into cover or for slower presentations, it is easier to feel those softer bights. Overrun is a problem I am having, and it most likely will make this idea worthless. Im going to keep messing with it though and see what the outcome is. In the end, if I had to choose, I would most definitely go out and buy a long MH power rod with just the right whip and backbone. Unfortunately, that is out of the question right now haha! College is not cheap! I definitely appreciate the input though! Tight Lines My Friend, TCN Quote
tbone1993 Posted February 28, 2014 Posted February 28, 2014 Well, my assessment is that if everyone followed the exact thing the next person was doing and wasn't trying new stuff out we would never have any innovation in fishing. Just think about it, if no one ever tried anything different we couldn't possibly have the amount of different rigs or newer innovative rods we have on the market today. Sometimes being different pays out in the end, and sometimes it doesn't. My idea is extremely different, but if I can get it keyed in to where it helps me stay in the strike zone longer I do believe I will catch more fish then most. Being different may be a bad thing in the eyes of some people, but to me taking risk and trying new things could possibly give me an edge. Tight Lines My Friend, TCN Here is my 2 cents. First off I am a collegiate angler with decent experience and am not the best guy out there. But I have done a ton more research on gear than most other guys just so I can have that edge on them. Check this video out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpvJsqtnszg Paul Mueller uses the right rod for the right application. Sure I can use my 7 ft 9 heavy XF action for 6xd and deep divers but it is not the same as a dobyns 805c or even an 806c for the 10xd. The reason is because the blank is different and it has a moderate fast tip. When a rod is designed as a crankbait rod it is going to be a different power than a flipping stick. If you want to throw crankbaits on your flipping stick go ahead. You will just be shallower in the water column. That is fine by me because if we are competing and your 6xd only hits 16ft and mine hits 20ft+ I will take that advantage all day. No need to defend yourself or anything. 90% of the guys on here are very open and willing to help out. Also take their advice, they've got years of experience on us. With you last reply physics is not working in your favor. The same idea that a stiff rod wants to return to its original shape also works against you because it means that the same rod requires more effort to bend it. The idea of a parabolic bend is that it flexes enough to cast and also set the hook. PM if you have any questions or just want to talk fishing. 1 Quote
T_Nix35 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Posted February 28, 2014 Here is my 2 cents. First off I am a collegiate angler with decent experience and am not the best guy out there. But I have done a ton more research on gear than most other guys just so I can have that edge on them. Check this video out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DpvJsqtnszg Paul Mueller uses the right rod for the right application. Sure I can use my 7 ft 9 heavy XF action for 6xd and deep divers but it is not the same as a dobyns 805c or even an 806c for the 10xd. The reason is because the blank is different and it has a moderate fast tip. When a rod is designed as a crankbait rod it is going to be a different power than a flipping stick. If you want to throw crankbaits on your flipping stick go ahead. You will just be shallower in the water column. That is fine by me because if we are competing and your 6xd only hits 16ft and mine hits 20ft+ I will take that advantage all day. No need to defend yourself or anything. 90% of the guys on here are very open and willing to help out. Also take their advice, they've got years of experience on us. With you last reply physics is not working in your favor. The same idea that a stiff rod wants to return to its original shape also works against you because it means that the same rod requires more effort to bend it. The idea of a parabolic bend is that it flexes enough to cast and also set the hook. PM if you have any questions or just want to talk fishing. I am definitely not trying to offend anybody or start a ruckus with my posts, and I am most definitely listening to their advice and appreciate their opinions. I know that there are a lot of guys on this site that have a broader knowledge of bass fishing then myself. I most definitely want to learn as much as they are willing to teach me. I also apologize if I am coming off defensive or closed minded. This whole post was based on an idea I saw, and under my specific circumstances I couldn't reproduce the exact type of rod needed to do it. So I adapted and thought I would try something out. 1 Quote
Super User .ghoti. Posted February 28, 2014 Super User Posted February 28, 2014 I use a Dobyns Champion 7'6" H-F rod for deep cranking. The rod says jigs, light flippin and c-rig. It is not what most would call a crankbait rod, but it works for me. With a tuned up Zillion, spooled with #14 mono, I can sling a DD-22 out of the county. I discovered this by accident. I wanted to throw a DD-22 one day and did not have my deep crank setup with me, so I used the above setup. It worked well enough I eventually sold my custom deep crank rod because I no longer used it. If you're willing to do a little experimenting, you will discover that all of your rods are good for more than one application. Simply ignore "conventional" wisdom, and give it a try. Within reason of course. I wouldn't use one of my light weight trout rods with 4lb test mono for punching; that would be stupid. I wouldn't tie a 1/64oz crappie jig on one of my heavy jigs rods either. But, right in the middle, I have two St Croix LTB 7' M-F rods that I can, and do, use for just about anything. From 1/8oz up to 3/4oz; jigs, plastics, cranks, spinnerbaits, etc. If you find something that works for you, well, use it. Who gives a rip what somebody else thinks? And, who the heck are they to tell you you're not doing it right? Being an old fart, who has been at this a long time, I ignore about 90% of what I read online. I've always preferred figuring it out myself. 1 Quote
Super User roadwarrior Posted February 28, 2014 Super User Posted February 28, 2014 Lamiglas SR705R is THE BOMB! The reel is a CTE200GT. Line is #30 Kanzen with #10 Tatsu leader. Casts a mile, stealthy and I don't lose many fish. 1 Quote
T_Nix35 Posted February 28, 2014 Author Posted February 28, 2014 I use a Dobyns Champion 7'6" H-F rod for deep cranking. The rod says jigs, light flippin and c-rig. It is not what most would call a crankbait rod, but it works for me. With a tuned up Zillion, spooled with #14 mono, I can sling a DD-22 out of the county. I discovered this by accident. I wanted to throw a DD-22 one day and did not have my deep crank setup with me, so I used the above setup. It worked well enough I eventually sold my custom deep crank rod because I no longer used it. If you're willing to do a little experimenting, you will discover that all of your rods are good for more than one application. Simply ignore "conventional" wisdom, and give it a try. Within reason of course. I wouldn't use one of my light weight trout rods with 4lb test mono for punching; that would be stupid. I wouldn't tie a 1/64oz crappie jig on one of my heavy jigs rods either. But, right in the middle, I have two St Croix LTB 7' M-F rods that I can, and do, use for just about anything. From 1/8oz up to 3/4oz; jigs, plastics, cranks, spinnerbaits, etc. If you find something that works for you, well, use it. Who gives a rip what somebody else thinks? And, who the heck are they to tell you you're not doing it right? Being an old fart, who has been at this a long time, I ignore about 90% of what I read online. I've always preferred figuring it out myself. I totally agree with you! Especially about what I am doing "right" and "wrong". Granted there are many situations like this, and I will listen to people's reasoning to why I am wrong and they are right. If it makes sense and works better then what I am doing, then bi-golly I will change right then and there. I am a flexible guy, I let the fish tell me what they want and use the best setup I have that feels the most comfortable to myself without messing up the action of my bait and the way it should be presented. As far as what I read or hear from people on the internet or around town, I take the info they give me and apply it to my own personal experiences and what has worked for me in the past. There are times you will hear info from pro's or great anglers that have been fishing for a long time, and try it out on the water and it just doesn't work for you. Anyhow, I appreciate the input and glad to hear this set up has worked for you. TLMF, TCN Quote
T_Nix35 Posted March 3, 2014 Author Posted March 3, 2014 Alright fellas just as an update I am officially done with trying this, and humbly say that my theory was wrong. When I get a chance, I am going to purchase a 7'6" Crankin Micro Magic MH. Trying to fish with my Heavy rod was just to much work, and a pain in the butt. I appreciate all of the info and help! TLMF, TCN Quote
Wbeadlescomb Posted March 3, 2014 Posted March 3, 2014 I throw 6xd,DB3 mag,and DD-22's on a 7'3 medium heavy with an x-fast tip just because I don't like throwing on my designated crankbait rod. But you can go grab a 7mh cherrywood rod if you were on a budget. It won't be as nice as a high end rod but it'll do better than that heavy action Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.