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Posted

Hey guys I've been think about how to make some baits I've schemed up in my head while keeping it as cost effective as possible. If I were to mold a senko just to get a decent cavity form what would be the best way to sculpt the inside to what I want. I was thing a dremel with one of the cord extensions. I'd get a very fine tip to put on it and just slowly make the marks and shapes I wanted. Would this be the best way?

Posted

Generally, you either have a sculpted master or an already made bait as a master.   Take that and adhere it to a flat surface  (double sided Scotch tape is often used) and put a dam around it.   Then fill that mold with your mold  material whether it be POP, RTV silicone, water putter, resin or whatever.    

  • Super User
Posted

I have a few molds that i made a couple years ago. if you are wanting a senko mold, try making one this. It gets every single detail. I didn't do a senko but I did do a few craws and worms. The detail was unreal. I think the total cost for everything was around 30$. if you want to make a custom mold with fiberglass resin, just create the bait you want with a lighter/glue and customize it exactly how you want. then just use the steps in the video. it will get pick up everything.

 

Posted

That's awesome. Will definitely look into trying that out. Do you think it would do real well with a worm that has bigger ribs? I'm not actually wanting a senko mold. What I was talking about earlier was using a senko in the plaster just to get a cavity in there. Then taking a dremel or pick and sculpting out the larger ribs or what ever else I decided to make with it.

  • Super User
Posted

That's awesome. Will definitely look into trying that out. Do you think it would do real well with a worm that has bigger ribs? I'm not actually wanting a senko mold. What I was talking about earlier was using a senko in the plaster just to get a cavity in there. Then taking a dremel or pick and sculpting out the larger ribs or what ever else I decided to make with it.

Sorry forgot about this post. Yes, fiberglass resin will pick up every single detail.

  • Super User
Posted

I used the fiberglass resin to make a two piece mold of the Berkley 4" sink worm and it picked up all the detail.

 

Allen

Posted

just keep in mind you will need to seal the mold when the plaster dries. Some use a 50-50 mix of elmers glue and water, but I use 2 ton epoxy. I find that the epoxy lasts longer.

Posted

just keep in mind you will need to seal the mold when the plaster dries. Some use a 50-50 mix of elmers glue and water, but I use 2 ton epoxy. I find that the epoxy lasts longer.

Could you explain how exactly you are sealing with epoxy? I've sealed some of mine with elmers and water but I'm looking to seal with something better on my new molds

Posted

It's pretty simple. The key for me is that I mix the epoxy inside the cavities. It saves from using a ton of epoxy. I then use like a Popsicle stick or something like that to spread the mixed epoxy across all of the cavity. If you mix the epoxy on a plate, or use a paintbrush you waste a lot of it. Mixing inside the cavity has been most effective for me.

Posted

Do you thin the epoxy with anything or just straight mix?

Posted

Spencer we were talking about using epoxy as a sealant for plaster of Paris molds. I think you are using a different medium to make the molds

Posted

When I make my plaster of Paris mold I seal them with cheap nail polish. You can buy it for 99 cents at most places, it works great! Just remember to add vent holes when making two part molds.

J-

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