What Is Wrong With Me And Fluro?

[coots]

Thanks for the knot input, I'm just going to ahve to practice them and see which is easiest to get done on the regular basis. 

[iabass8]

And just to answer a few of the questions that was in the thread.

 

I've used the Seaguar AbrazX 15lb test

Sunline Sniper, I think it was the 14lb or 16lb, I'll have to check the boat next time I'm at it.

Invisix, can't remember the test on it, but I always fish 14-16lb

 

I fish multiple scenarios during a fishing trip... we fish a lot of banks.. a lot of submerged grass.... rocks, stumps etc. 

 

I imagine it's getting nicked somewhere... and it's probably my fault. I can live with it being my fault or doing something wrong... but at some point I've just got to ask myself is it worth it. 

perhaps you got very unlucky with multiple bad spools or you are having some serious backlash issues. i've used abrazX with no issues and currently use sniper on a few of my reels. I dind't/don't have any random break offs with either line. i really like sniper.

[WRB]

All FC fishing line is a single filament or monofilament. We think of monofilament line being the original Nylon polymer. The big difference between Nylon and fluorocarbon is hygroscopicity, the ability to absorb water. Both the polymers are elastic and stretch, FC has higher tensile properties and stretches less under equal applied force. Nylon absorbs water improving it's elasticity, strength and tensile properties, FC doesn't.

If you stretch FC beyond it's yield strength it stays elongated or stretched length, reducing the cross section diameter and permanently reducing it's strength. Without lubrication FC overheats when high friction is applied during clinching knots tight, deforming or flattening the line.

FC is expensive and difficult line to tie and maintain...however is has less line drag coeffient in water, sinks instead of floats and lower refraction of light, giving FC an advantage for underwater lure presentations verses nylon monofilament lines.

You must keep FC lubricated when knot tying to prevent overheating. You must change damaged line to prevent line failure.

Tom

[bigfishbk86]

Thats what flouro does, it breaks.  Switch to CXX and problem solved!

[Deleted account]

Thats what flouro does, it breaks.  Switch to CXX and problem solved!

 

Yeah, I don't get the hype. Big Game for everything but frogs here.

[coots]

What is this CXX you speak of?

 

I did a quick google and it came up with some P-line product. Is that what you're talking about?

[A-Jay]

What is this CXX you speak of?

 

I did a quick google and it came up with some P-line product. Is that what you're talking about?

 

Yes ~ That's the one being referred to.

 

A-Jay

[coots]

Yes ~ That's the one being referred to.

 

A-Jay

This co-poly stuff is new to me as well. Never fished it, don't know much about it.

 

Guess Iv'e got some reading to do.

[WRB]

Copolymer line is a blend of 2 polymers, usually 2 Nylons, 1 with UV protection and 1 with higher abrasion resistance. Nearly every line manufacturer offers copolymer line.

Hybrid is co-extruded line, a Nylon inner core with FC outer jacket. Yo-Zuri was first to offer a hybrid and several others followed.

Tom

[coots]

Copolymer line is a blend of 2 polymers, usually 2 Nylons, 1 with UV protection and 1 with higher abrasion resistance. Nearly every line manufacturer offers copolymer line.

Hybrid is co-extruded line, a Nylon inner core with FC outer jacket. Yo-Zuri was first to offer a hybrid and several others followed.

Tom

Thanks for that explanation sir.

 

Do you guys really have issues with a copoly line vs a braid w/ fluro leader... 

 

I mean it kinda sounds like copoly is really strong and still sensitive, taking away some of the flaws of fluro... 

[BuckMaxx]

I gave up the middle of last year on floura. I was doing the same thing. I was using braid with a floura  leader. On a hook set I would snap it off. I believe I have fished so many years with Mono I have created a habit about jerking too hard. SO I just opted to go back to mono and keep it simple.

[A-Jay]

Here's some more food for thought ~

 

A-Jay

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/130798-favorite-fluoro/

[Felix77]

You mentioned professional overruns happen to you more often.  When I first made the switch to FC I learned how bad a professional overrun is to FC the hard way.  Losing a good fish.

 

When you get FC tangled it puts significant weak spots in your line.  That will cause it to break when tugging on it or playing fish it that part of the line is exposed.

 

I found the better I got at avoiding backlashes the less issues I had with like breakage.

 

I personally use Seaguar InvizX and AbrazX and love them both.

 

Good luck.

[Nick49]

Dink, when not using Braid with fluoro, I will use P-Line CXX (high visibility).  I use the hi vis CXX when fishing jigs/weighted soft plastics in water deeper than 15 - 20 feet.  I am not a big fan of straight fluoro for many of the reasons previously cited.  As a line watcher, along with great feel I like the visibility of hi vis braid.  The uni to uni knot for braid to fluoro connections is easy and dependable.

[coots]

I won't lie... the thought of going straight braid for everything is really tempting me right now. I've read a few threads on here from way back when and some even recent as a year or so ago of guys tossing straight braid with good results. 

 

Right now I'm torn between straight braid, braid with a leader of some sort... 

 

And then there's Copoly... (P-line CXX or Yo-Zuri)

[bigfishbk86]

Coots, trust me, either use straight braid with no leader, or CXX in whichever # test you prefer.  CXX runs strong though, if you want 14lb, get 12lb etc and if you use a line conditioner on it, you'll never have any issues.

[retiredbosn]

As far as hybrid lines go, imo Yo-Zuri can't be beat. It is not a fluro coated mono as suggested, rather an exclusive extrusion process that results in the mono and, fluro being bonded on the molecular level. The end results is a line that exhibits the best attributes of each and none of the weaknesses. FWIW 12lb hybrid has a breaking strength of almost 20lbs. The refractive quality is much closer to fluro than mono, plus its inexpensive. Give it a try, you'll never switch lines again

[spartyon8]

Straight braid and don't bother over thinking it.

[plumworm]

Coots, as another vision imperfect " bassfisherguy" and a "I hate floro guy" , The members that suggested P-line cxx are 100% "right on"  I have used that line for years and have never had a bad day with it. The other advantage of cxx is that it's strength to diameter is the best in the business. P-line will list it as #14 lb. test but the breaking point will be about 18-20. As I said, my sight is not good, however, the uni to uni knot is as easy a knot for braid to leader as there is , just use BIG loops so you can feel the line tip through.Good luck.

[plumworm]

Coots, I also forgot to tell you that P-line cxx is about 1/2 the price of floro. BPS: 600 yards of cxx 12lb. 17.99

[camovan]

I won't lie... the thought of going straight braid for everything is really tempting me right now. I've read a few threads on here from way back when and some even recent as a year or so ago of guys tossing straight braid with good results. 

 

Right now I'm torn between straight braid, braid with a leader of some sort... 

 

And then there's Copoly... (P-line CXX or Yo-Zuri)

 

 

I use either braid with yo-zuri leader or straight yo-zuri on all of my setups.  The only reason for the leader on braid is for break offs when needed.  Since it is the main line on other reels having enough leader on hand is never an issue.  Also, it is cheap enough when bought in bulk to never give respooling a second thought if I feel the line has been weakened in any way, which is a big deal for me.

[Raul]

P-line CXX = near indestructible.

 

I love - hate CXX, handles horribly once you begin to climb above 12 lb test but when it comes to uprooting a 6 ft tall huizache brush from the bottom of the lake nobody does it better !

 

The real problem is your line selection, there´s no such thing as a "Jack of all trades" in this hobby, one line type can´t do well and excell at all you want, I´ve fished for more than 3 decades and fish with a variety of lines, some of which I don´t even like, I hate braided line, I think of fluoro as being too expensive and too delicate, but each line type and combination has a place and time.

[primetime]

I have tried almost every line out there and I recently tried to go back to Fluoro just because I keep "Reading" about it in Magazines...What I have found is that Flurocarbon is not for me, and neither is the leader....copoly leader, Mono leader, no leader, Mono leader for floating properties as well as copoly's, and only use fluoro as a leader for abrasion resistance for Snook and I am talking 60-100lb test as their gill plates make a joke out of 40lb if they are a true lunker snook and I used to think guys were crazy when I heard this...Bass Fishing, I am sticking with Yo-zuri Hybrid 8-12lb spinning & 12-20 casting, same for leaders, and for braid, I go 10-65 depending on application, but I no longer use FLuro as it is smooth, thin, sensitive, casts a mile, but it does break at knots, cold, and why do I have to deal with bad batches, feel my line every cast, and tie bimini twists when Mono or Hybrid keeps my line in the strike zone longer as it floats, if I need it to sink I use a weight, if I want Invisible wich fluoro do I buy? Seaguar and Yo-zuri make invisible Fluro that is green, pink, red...What is clear water anyway? Pool? PHosphate pit? All water is tinted so Fluro for "Dropshotting" and invisible due to light refraction is a gimmick in my opinion, so then Copolymers are invisible since they have flurocarbon coating Mono.......

 

If I want invisible line, I use a camo line like Triple Fish used to make and it works.....I use Sharpies to color line to match the color of the water, So I like Clear Line to start, white braid and I carry sharpies with razor slits in it and I find a brown, green, purple subtle smear is hard to see in most clear water......

 

I fished Mono for 15 years without issues, went to braid when it was awful, back to mono, then to fluoro a few years ago when it was awful, now I am back to Braid which is awesome, and for Leader, I will take my Yo-zuri Hybrid all day long over any Fluorocaron on the market and save money for other things...I am sure Fluorocabon is a great fit for some fisherman, but I find it too much trouble and Copolymers do what I need, and if I want my line to sink.....That is really not a problem....I am going Yo-zuri Hybrid for now, Berkley and Stren Mono as I still trust them, and for Braid, I like Suffix, Tuf Line Xp, Power pro Plus, or whatever spectra or Dyneema on sale, and maybe one spinning rod with some crystal fireline superline.....

 

But, if you are losing lures mid cast, setting the hook to breaks.....Why keep trying when you would get those same strikes on Mono? What is stronger than Hybrid or Big Game, Stren High Impact and I am sure there are more.....I like some lines that are not pitched in magazine articles as Triple FIsh is good, and makes many of the lines mentioned here., only not sponsering anyone....Tried $20 spool of Suffix fluoro 100 yards 12lb test a few weeks ago...Broke of 2 fish because I don't enjoy checking my line every minute, sparying line conditioners, or whatever else required, for 20 bucks and 100 yards the line should be good to go and not break unless I hook into a Monster and I mess up my drag setting...That 12lb test was sensisitive and thin, as soon as cool weather rolled in, it turned to brittle junk.......Just my experiences, I say don't fix what isn't broke for your style of fishing. Buy a quality line and you should not need special knots, line cream, or retie every time you brush up against a tree....Just my opinion...Can't like it or see any benefit, braid and mono/copoymer does it all fine for me and I will not donate money to advertisements anymore.

[primetime]

This co-poly stuff is new to me as well. Never fished it, don't know much about it.

 

Guess Iv'e got some reading to do.

Using a copolymer is going to be the same as using Mono....Only it is usually thinner and stronger and for the money the way to go in my opinion compared to fluoro....You can even tie an improved CLinch knot on a Hybrid, and it handles like the Mono that still works pretty good for most applications....Nylon-Mono coated with FLurocarbon or fused together....Cheaper, strong, and much more cost effective, and no need for sprays, break offs in cold, 28 knots to learn...Just like fishing Mono....and MOno is good, I like that it floats, and yes fluoro sinks, but so do weights which I can add, and Invisibility, they all make invisiblel likes in different colors.....Everyone has a personal preference and I get that, but if you are having so many issues with fluoro, the same one's I have, my suggestion is Copolymer, Mono or braid to Mono...Yo-zuri Hybrid or any copoymer is good. Cheaper and like Mono....I wish I could use FLuorocarbon as it is super nice, but not worth the headaches for me.