Reel Oil?

[papajoe222]

So I started my semi-annual reel cleaning and noticed I'm extremely low on the Ardent reel oil I've bee using.  Not that I'm not satisfied with it, I was just wondering what you guys use? I've tried Hot Sauce, Abu, and some other reel company's oils, they seemed to break down under moderate to heavy use and jet fuel needs to be reapplied frequently, so for lazy me, that isn't an option either.

I've been looking at Liberty Oil, but haven't seen it mentioned anywhere here.  I like the fact that it bonds to the metal as that's what I'd really like.  As I said, I'm lazy and if I don't get around to it in time, I'd like to have the added protection.

 

[baluga]

TSi301.  It's the only one that I don't have to reapply for at least 3 months with my reels I use in saltwater compared to Reel X which I need to reapply every month to get that smooth long casting distance.  I think my reels for freshwater last at least 6 months before I need to re-apply TSi301.

This oil evaporate and does not leave any sticky residue on the bearings leaving it smooth and lubricated for longer time compared to other reel oil like the shimano, reelx or abu oil. 

[Jaheff]

Oust for my spool bearings and super lube grease for my frame bearings in freshwater. Saltwater, reel X and Marine grease.

You really have alot of options, just comes down to personal preferance.

[Trey Harpel]

boca lightning oil for bearings or frame areas and I also use the Lucas for frame as its slightly thicker and has been working great for frame areas..

[Jrob78]

I've been using a 50/50 mix of Rocket Fuel Tournament Formula and Yellow Grade on spool bearings and Yellow Grade on other bearings.  I've been very happy with the Rocket Fuel oils.

[JeziHogg]

Alchemy Oil.

[Maxximus Redneckus]

Remoil here

[Basswhippa]

Based on your wants, I was going to suggest ABU lube, rather than their oil, assuming that is not what you are talking about.   Have you tried 3 and 1 oil?  It is pretty thick.

[mjseverson24]

I use hot sauce for my spool bearings and ardent reel oil for the inner bearings and levelwind gear.

 

Mitch

[msk]

I use cal's on the drag and gears with reelX on the bearings. Works well for me.

[Oregon Native]

Been using Shimano products for years and am very satisfied. Use a mixture of their grease and oil for the worm gear. Great stuff

[SirSnookalot]

TSi301.  It's the only one that I don't have to reapply for at least 3 months with my reels I use in saltwater compared to Reel X which I need to reapply every month to get that smooth long casting distance.  I think my reels for freshwater last at least 6 months before I need to re-apply TSi301.

This oil evaporate and does not leave any sticky residue on the bearings leaving it smooth and lubricated for longer time compared to other reel oil like the shimano, reelx or abu oil. 

Same time frames, I use Boca Bearing oil and/or Corrosion Block.

[Preytorien]

I've used Ardent Reel Butter.....it seems to make things smoother.

 

In regards to oiling the bearings.....I had a couple of questions.....

 

I tuned a brand new reel this winter, but when I soaked the bearings in acetone, even for 2 hours, the acetone wasn't dirty at all. Is this expected since the bearings are virtually unused?

 

Also, is there an easy way to know your oil is actually penetrating the bearings? I stuck them on a pencil and rotated them, seemed smooth, but is there a way to visually see that it's getting in there enough?

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

There's no magic as far as lubes are concerned. Any quality lube in the proper application on clean parts will work fine. New bearings are typically way over lubed and this is usually apparent as white flakes in the solvent. Try swishing them around to flush any loose stuff laying inside. A clean dry bearing should spin by hand quietly for several seconds. One drop of oil on the race will slow it down and can be seen soaking in. 

[MacP]

Reel Butter Oil and Grease here.  I'm not crazy about their grease, but their oil is quality.

[.RM.]

There's no magic as far as lubes are concerned. Any quality lube in the proper application on clean parts will work fine.

X2

[baluga]

I guess you have not tried TSi301.

[BobP]

If you soak a bearing in acetone (I use ether based starting fluid) and spin the bearing on a pencil point when wet, it will spin the longest because the fluid acts as a very low viscosity lube.  Set the bearing aside and when dry, it will not spin as long.  Apply a drop of bearing oil and you're ready to go.

[baluga]

Same time frames, I use Boca Bearing oil and/or Corrosion Block.

I believe you are talking about oiling bearing for spinning reels since you mainly use spinning as you mentioned in most of your post.  Spinning reels are not directly affected by the oil or condition of the bearings when talking about casting distance. I actually like using a thicker oil for spinning reels for added protection from rusting.  Baitcaster on the other hand decrease its casting distance when thick oil are used, even an extra drop of oil will greatly affect its casting.  Especially with Calcutta DC, TSi301 is the only one that I can use on DC that would not mess the casting distance.  Even shimano indicates that they use a special oil for the spool bearings for the DC models.

[.ghoti.]

baluga, next time you order, try TSI321. When you buy 301, you're buying 321 lube mixed with a solvent. The solvent is what evaporates, not the lube.

 

I'll agree, there is no "magic" lube, but 321 comes as close as I've found. Just have to careful, and not use too much. I dip a thin, steel pick in the container and get a very small drop to apply to the bearing. This gives the speed of the very light, low viscosity oils, but lasts all summer.

[baluga]

I will try that 321 next time.  Thanks .ghoti.

[Crestliner2008]

Here's something a little different for you to consider. Not only am I a fisherman, but I love guns as well. I would use nothing on my guns than Eezox CLR. This is the same cleaning/lubricating/protectant that our military has used extensively in Iraq and Afghanistan on their weapons. Eezox also makes a fishing reel CLR which seems to work pretty well for me. Expensive, but I think you'll like the results.

[.RM.]

The 301 is also unfriendly to plastics..

 

My question is why use a penatrator type lubrication 321 that is compaired to WD-40?

 

I'm with Mike there is NO magic lube, any quality oil properly applied to clean parts has worked for us for over 29 yrs now..

 

Tight Lines All!

[.ghoti.]

The 301 is also unfriendly to plastics..

 

My question is why use a penatrator type lubrication 321 that is compaired to WD-40?

 

I'm with Mike there is NO magic lube, any quality oil properly applied to clean parts has worked for us for over 29 yrs now..

 

Tight Lines All!

David, I don't disagree with you at all about quality oil applied in the correct amount to clean parts. Sounds like a recipe for success to me.

 

But, I like to experiment. And I like to push the envelope a little. I jumped on the rocket fuel bandwagon when it first became available, and like everybody else, soon discovered that once per year was nowhere near often enough. I tried a lot of different lubes over the years, before settling on 321.

 

TSI has been around long enough now that you would think most of the disinformation has been answered away. But it has not.

 

Comparing WD40 to TSI321 is like comparing fingernail polish to epoxy. They are two different products, designed for completely different uses.

 

WD40 was designed to displace water, not for use as a lubricant. TSI321 is a synthetic ester. Esters were developed as lubricants for high speed, very high temperature applications. Originally, it was the development of synthetic esters that made the jet engine possible; which is not at all to the point.

 

TSI301 is a penetrating lubricant. It is 321 ester mixed with a solvent. The solvent is harmful to some plastics. They do not tell us what the solvent is, nor is it listed which plastics can be harmed by it. Again, doesn't matter to me. I use 321, which has no solvent. I'm starting with properly cleaned parts, and don't need the penetrating, cleaning properties of a solvent.

 

This particular ester is a molecule with polarity. In a nutshell that means the molecules link together and bind to metals. This provides long lasting corrosion protection along with excellent lubrication. I find this to be just what the doctor ordered for spool bearings, and for levelwind lubrication.

 

When used on the levelwind parts, grit does not stick nearly as much, and can be simply rinsed away with fresh water; which does not wash away the lube. Try this sometime. You may be impressed.

 

In fact, if you PM your address to me, I'll send you some. I have a good sized container of the stuff, and, being an old fart, I may not live long enough to use it all up. I'd be happy to send you a sample. Like I said, it ain't magic, but it do be pretty darned good stuff.

[.RM.]

TSI has been around long enough now that you would think most of the disinformation has been answered away. But it has not.

 

Comparing WD40 to TSI321 is like comparing fingernail polish to epoxy. They are two different products, designed for completely different uses.

 

I didn't compare it, that isn't my disinformation..

That comparison came from their website..

 

Tight Lines!