Airbrush Problems!!

[cdaggett]

I recently got an airbrush offline, and have started to paint some wooden blanks I had carved a while back. I am having problems, firstly I cannot for the life of me get the brush to spray consistently. I have tried thinning the paint with water and reducer, and nothing is working. My most aggravating problem is that the paint is grainy. I cant get it to fill in all the spots in between each grain. If I keep spraying to fill in these spots, the paint builds up and eventually starts to get runny. I am using createx wicked acrylic, and I am not liking it one bit. It is too thick to spray out of the bottle, and not getting atomized at 15-20 psi. I have tried psi as low as 4-5 and all the way up to 20. The paint has been thinned to several different consistencies, and none of them seem to spray correctly. ANY help will be appreciated. 

[Hi Salenity]

What ratio of paint to thinner are you at?

Did you buy a budget airbrush?

What are you using for thinner?

[tomustang]

Is it new or used? what kind of adjustments do you have on the gun?

 

 

 

Most of the time, when I had that happened there was a block in the flow. Is everything cleaned?

[cdaggett]

It is a new, dual action gravity feed by badger. I was kind of hesitant about purchasing it because it was, at one point, $400. I got it on amazon for $80. It had mostly positive reviews, and as far as I can tell it nice quality. It has an adjustment at the rear for paint release control which is pretty nice. The model is the Sotar 20/20 2F. Im sorry that I didn't give you guys the specs to begin with... Wasnt thinking. As for the thinner, I have been using the Createx Wicked Reducer that came with the primary color paint combo. I tried that, but didnt really notice a difference between that and water. I decided to do what DakotaLakesTackle on youtube does with his paint. He dumps a little bit out and fills it up a tad with water. He also uses createx wicked, so I thought it would be alright.

[makelures]

I use Autoair paints because I've found them better than both createx and wicked (yes, I know they're all made by the smae company    ).

 

First advice: don't thin with water, windex or anything else other than the manufacturers reducer. The reducer contains a mild solvent that helps keep the paint from drying on the tip of the airbrush. Water obviously doesn't have this, windex and other solvents have additives that can cause comaptibility issues later. You spent enough on an airbrush and quality paint, don't try and save a few bucks on reducer or the money you already spent is wasted!

 

Second: Badger airbrush should be fine for the job. If your airbrush is clean and you're getting a grainy texture then it's an atomization issue. Assuming there are no small lumps to block the airbrush nozzle then it comes down to dilution and air pressure. This is different for every airbrush and every paint, so I can't give you hard and fast rule. But as an example, I only go down to 5 psi for fine detail work and with my Iwata airbrush I'll generally use a paint:reducer ratio of 50:50 for transparent paints, 40:60 for opaques and 30:70 for pearls or metallics. More often I'll work with slightly thicker paint (maybe 60:40) and higher air pressures (up to 35 psi).

 

It sounds to me like you need to reduce your paint more and/or bump up your air pressures. I'd start by thinning the paint 50:50 and then play with the air pressure until it's going on smooth.

 

Hope this helps

[cdaggett]

Thanks. I bumped up the air pressure to 20 + and its better. Also, I have the reducer for the wicked, and have read online about why you should not use anything beside the companies reducers and water. Im only using water because its a water based paint. Shouldn't hurt anything. I'll keep experimenting!

[Pete-K]

Have you cleaned the gun? I know on my 7 guns if there's anything left on the needle it will do what yours is doing. But for the most part you may be trying to put more paint on faster then your going to be able to do. That is until you get the hang of the gun and paint. Each model of gun will act different.

Pete

[makelures]

yeah, I'd definitely stick with reducer and not water for thinning your paint. The reducers contain a mild solvent that helps keep the paint from drying on the tip, which could be part of your problem.

 

Glad the air pressure increase has helped.

[Christian M]

Createx sells a white sealer paint that is formulated especially for wood. If you're using plain old white then the water is probably seeping into the wood and causing issues with coverage and paint running. Whenever I spray a wooden bait I always hit it with the createx sealer, then I hit it with standard white createx. Another thing you can try is using adhesion promoter. It will help the paint stick to pretty much any surface and give you a more even coverage.

[z7master167]

Whenever i seal the baits white, i tape all of my baits off and spray them white with a rattle , then i wait for them to dry, i use wicked, regular createx and autoair, i have been airbrushing for years and sometimes it still gives me a fit,

One piece of advice is mix your paint before putting it in your airbrush, try to get the consistancy of water, depending on the thickness of the paint but im usually 40% paint 60% reducer or more if needed.

Another little tip is put a couple drops of thinner in your airbrush before u add the mixed paint, and if you're still having problems. Simply pull back the action with no air and put your finger over the end where the paint comes out, and give it a lil air pressure, this will help mix it up.

Always make sure the tip of the needle dowsnt have dried up paint on it.

I dont use a lid on my cup or the very end of the airbrush either. Hope this helps