Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Took the boat out a little over the month ago and when putting it up I noticed the transducer to the fish finder had come in contact with the trailer which knocked it loose.  I'm surprised this hasn't happened before, and the boat was a tad off center on the trailer but not by much.  I'm not sure how to go about fixing it because I can't get access to the other side of the screws due to the boat flooring and two batteries bolted in on that side.  I thought about using some marine glue to try and seal it back on there but I figure that would only be a temporary fix due to the fact the screws are loose now.  Also I'm thinking the transducer needs to be moved a little more to the left.  I'll post some pictures and let you guys look. 

 

Thanks in advance.

 

post-29227-0-02420400-1386269391_thumb.j

 

post-29227-0-03555600-1386269400_thumb.j

 

post-29227-0-80391300-1386269409_thumb.j

 

post-29227-0-11995400-1386269416_thumb.j

  • Super User
Posted

I only needed to see the first picture. You used the transom mount for the Humminbird transducer that is solid instead of the one that trips when impacted. You got what you rigged for.

 

You need to move the transducer either left or right of the trailer bunk. BUT your trailer bunks don't match your hull, or your guide-ons don't position the hull on the trailer correctly.

It looks like the strake on the right of hull bottom is on the bunk instead of beside it.

Fix that before you choose a transducer position.

 

You should either replace the mount with the XNT or get the Transducer Shield and Saver SBB-3 to use with that mount.

 

One more thing, do not put the transducer in line with a hull strake, that is the worse place to have it due to the turbulence they create. It should be centered between two of them

Posted

Thanks and yeah I just got this boat over the Summer. A family member is unable to use it anymore so he pretty much let me have it.

When I move the transducer how should I go about covering the holes from where it used to be?

  • Super User
Posted

Usually, there are no "bolts" on the other side of those screws.  Almost always, they are just course thread wood screws.

  • Super User
Posted

Get some good marine silicone and just fill them in, let them dry and sand flush.

Posted

Usually, there are no "bolts" on the other side of those screws.  Almost always, they are just course thread wood screws.

 

Okay that's what I wasn't sure about.  Appreciate the help fellas.

  • Super User
Posted

One other thing.  The bunk should not extend beyond (behind) the transom.  That is usually just a matter of adjusting the winch stand to the rear so the transom is stopped even with the back of the bunk, or just a bit behind it.  Then it won't matter if your transducer is in line with the bunk.

  • Super User
Posted

One other thing.  The bunk should not extend beyond (behind) the transom.  That is usually just a matter of adjusting the winch stand to the rear so the transom is stopped even with the back of the bunk, or just a bit behind it.  Then it won't matter if your transducer is in line with the bunk.

False, the junction of the transom and hull bottom should be supported.

  • Super User
Posted

False, the junction of the transom and hull bottom should be supported.

 

Well, that's the way both of my Nitros came.  The bunks ended flush with the back of the transom.  The portion beyond that is supporting nothing but air.

  • Super User
Posted

I'm sorry.  I made a mistake in my prior post.  The bunks did/do not end flush with the back surface of the transom.

 

They end flush with the  back surface of the step.  The transom on the Z - 7 was more than a foot behind the step.  On the Z - 8 it's considerably less than that.

 

There is nothing on the trailer that supports the transom.

 

Picture006.jpg

  • Super User
Posted

Any stepped pad hull is like that.  I don't think that really applies to the OP, who has a what looks like a mod-v hull.

  • Super User
Posted

Any stepped pad hull is like that.  I don't think that really applies to the OP, who has a what looks like a mod-v hull.

 

 

There is still no need for the bunks to extend six inches or so beyond the transom, as shown in  the op's photo.  In fact. there is no need for them to extend a fraction of an inch beyond the transom.  If they were flush, the original poster would not have had any problem with the transducer where it is.

 

Unless his winch mount is welded, I suspect it crept forward.  I've seen it happen.

  • Super User
Posted

Nope, my Bullet bunks are almost flush to the step, like yours.  On my Xpress, the center two bunks stick out a half foot, and the outers are flush, but that's to help guide the tricky hull onto the trailer.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.