Most Sensitive Bottom Contact Rods Under $150

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

This is a great thread! I spent almost twenty years in the high-end car audio industry and have to add that these types of threads are the same as the old argument of what speaker sounds best. It was easy to quantify which electronics were better by design, but speaker quality is 100% subjective, just as rod sensitivity is here.

I find my Carbonlite & Veritas are the two most sensitive rods I own. My Fenwick Silver Hawk is a close 3rd, and it was $50.

Great kitchen table talk, keep it coming.

Add: threads like these also make me want to buy more gear 'to try out' which makes my wife roll her eyes and ask why she married a kid !

 

No debate Boston Acustic Pro 6.0  F/R and Soundstream 15" SPL160 subs kicking back in the early 90s   Doesnt matter much now cause cant hear as well.

[DogBone_384]

"No debate Boston Acustic Pro 6.0  F/R and Soundstream 15" SPL160 subs kicking back in the early 90s    Doesnt matter much now cause cant hear as well."

 

Sorry, I'd have to go with a/d/s 320 i/s for antiques and /////ALPINE SPX-17Pro for modern.  Though I installed an awful lot of BA Pros back in the 80's & 90's…..  

 

Enough hijacking - back to rod sensitivity….

 

Have a great weekend...

 

[*Hootie]

I would like to discuss sliding compound miter saws....lol.

Hootie

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

There could be a way to measure rod sensitivity. There are vibration monitoring devices that could be set on the rod reelseat position then have an adjustable device creating a tic or vibration on a set lenght of line using a standard line or just on the rodtip. The monitor can feel these inputs through the length of rod and give readings higher lower at set levels of input. Somewhat like the sensor for richter scale measures vibration from earthquakes.

So set input at 1/8,1/4,1/2oz equivalent force tap  tap tap, read monitor, the higher the reading the more sensitive the rod is or the smallest force to get reading. One rod could measure down to 1/64oz force while another wont react til 1/8oz force applied so the 1/64 is more sensitive.

Or a setting of 1/4oz input and rod A gets reading of 1000 on monitor, rod B get 1200 the rod B feels more vibration at reelseat thus more sensitive.

Just thinking

[WRB]

I will repeat this agian; fishing rods can only transmit vibrations from line movement, the lure weight only reduces the amount a slack line and water drag coeffient on the line. You could hit the lure with a hammer and fell nothing if the line has slack and doesn't move under water, vibrations are not attenuated up the line in water.

The line you use has more impact on how well a rod transmit line movement through your fingers and hand holding the rod. How much advantage a high modulus light weight rod offers verses a lower modulus heavier weight rod becomes an individual interpratation and how much money you are willing to pay for that difference.

Tom

[Diggy]

Im liking my m/h carbonlite more and more every day for this application, more so with rocky terrain than grass dragging worms through it. May pick up a 7ft6 heavy or trade my *** for one locally.

[Jeff H]

I would like to discuss sliding compound miter saws....lol.

Hootie

 

LOL...it's a good thing some carry a sense of humor in these discussions.  That cracked me up!  Here's to you hootie!

 

I have always felt the Shimano Crucial fishes way above it's price in my hands.  I use them and St Croix Avids and I think their sensitivity levels are pretty close for me. 

[SirSnookalot]

I will repeat this agian; fishing rods can only transmit vibrations from line movement, the lure weight only reduces the amount a slack line and water drag coeffient on the line. You could hit the lure with a hammer and fell nothing if the line has slack and doesn't move under water, vibrations are not attenuated up the line in water.

The line you use has more impact on how well a rod transmit line movement through your fingers and hand holding the rod. How much advantage a high modulus light weight rod offers verses a lower modulus heavier weight rod becomes an individual interpratation and how much money you are willing to pay for that difference.

Tom

I think Tom is right.

 

I don't think on a technical level, 60 years of bass fishing has taught me just to react to the gear I'm using, weather and water conditions at the present time, yesterday is ancient history.  The statement always arises " how do you know you're feeling all the bites", the answer is " how do you know I'm not".  Not a doubt in my mind that I don't feel the vast majority of bites.  Knowing how to keep slack out of the line is as beneficial as any rod you may use, I do think braided lines are a big equalizer too.

 

The hardest part of fishing is finding them and enticing the strike, some days they're on and some days they're off.  The techniques and the actually landing of fish is the easy part, IMO the equipment is secondary to experience. 

[Jeff H]

Feel or touch is one of our senses.  Just as some can see or hear better than others, some peoples sense of feel is diminished or enhanced compared to others.  That's not real hard to understand.  I've fished with guys that can't feel bites that I've seen at the end of their Loomis GLX rods using flouro while I'm whacking 'em with my Crucials and XT mono.  Some guys hands AND focus are just dead compared to others and as SirSnookalot says, that ability to focus comes with experience.  I don't feel I've anything to gain by spending $500 on any rod.

[Smallmouth Hunter]

TT review of the tatula is supposed to be up soon. Looks like a promising rod to me and is under $150

[Deleted account]

I would like to discuss sliding compound miter saws....lol.

Hootie

Yeah, and then if you are not careful, sensitivity will be moot stubby...

 

A guy is working on his mitre saw when he accidentally cuts his finger. His friend rushes him to the emergency room, where doctors are able to reattach it.

He calls his wife to inform her, and says "Honey I had an accident, I cut off one of my fingers"

She is horrified and exclaims "Not the hole finger?!"

To which he responds "no, not the hole finger, the one next to it."

[*Hootie]

Yeah, and then if you are not careful, sensitivity will be moot stubby...

A guy is working on his mitre saw when he accidentally cuts his finger. His friend rushes him to the emergency room, where doctors are able to reattach it.

He calls his wife to inform her, and says "Honey I had an accident, I cut off one of my fingers"

She is horrified and exclaims "Not the hole finger?!"

To which he responds "no, not the hole finger, the one next to it."

HILLARIOUS!!!!

Hootie

[Loop_Dad]

I received my new Fenwick Elite Tech Smallmouth yesterday. This is 6'9" MHF. I couldn't wait to try this out, so I went to near by lake this afternoon for a couple of hours.

 

First I like the grip. Some parts are fatter. This helps me to securely hold the rod without gripping too hard.  The lure rating was from 3/8-1 oz and I was bit worried that the tip might be too stiff for my liking, but it seem to cast ok with 1/4 oz.  My main range is usually 1/2 oz and with that it cast very nice. Sensitivity was good that I was able to feel everything I expected to feel. No problem setting hook with heavy gauge hook. I only got one fish (4 lbs), but it handled the fish as I expected.

 

So the bottom line, I am very happy with this purchase, especially with the good deal I got. (I got two for price of one! ) Thanks folks.

 

BTW: This is not only my  first Elite Tech fish, but also my first Rage Tail fish (craw).

 

[JCiurej34]

Duckett Micro Magics start at $149 and they're pretty sensitive in my opinion. 

[CWB]

The g series curado isn't a bad reel by any means, but it is below average for the price. The main reason it didn't live up to the hype is that people thought the reel was going to be better than the E series curado, and also cost less at the same time. It does cost less, but it is not as nicely made as the curado e. Comparing the E series curado to the G series curado is like comparing a citica to a curado. Similar build, but not made as nicely and not as much quality materials.

A G series Curado is just a green E series Citica. Shimano didn't raise the price on the Curado when they brought out the G series. They painted the Citica Green and raised the price and called it a Curado.

Curado E's are probably one of the most popular reels series ever made. Still sell on Ebay for up to $150.0. Not sure what this has to do with OP though.

[iabass8]

A G series Curado is just a green E series Citica. Shimano didn't raise the price on the Curado when they brought out the G series. They painted the Citica Green and raised the price and called it a Curado.

Curado E's are probably one of the most popular reels series ever made. Still sell on Ebay for up to $150.0. Not sure what this has to do with OP though.

the curado G series also has a larger frame size than the citica E. It's the same frame proportions as the caenen

[Jrob78]

A G series Curado is just a green E series Citica. Shimano didn't raise the price on the Curado when they brought out the G series. They painted the Citica Green and raised the price and called it a Curado.

Curado E's are probably one of the most popular reels series ever made. Still sell on Ebay for up to $150.0. Not sure what this has to do with OP though.

The G Series Curado has nothing to do with the Citica E.  Your first sentence is completely false.  Like iabass said, the Curado G is the same basic frame shape as the entry level Caenan.   The big difference is the Caenan has a graphite frame, while the Curado has an aluminum frame.