jtesch Posted October 28, 2013 Posted October 28, 2013 O.K. guys, is their any advantage to spooling a baitcaster with flouro versus spooling braid and using a flouro leader. The obvious one is the knot used in connecting the leader but is their any other good reasons to go all flouro??? Quote
Super User iabass8 Posted October 28, 2013 Super User Posted October 28, 2013 i'm by no means trying to sound come off rude but if you search the topic there is more info on this specific subject then you could want. 1 Quote
fishguy613 Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 Im actually looking forward to hearing responses too... maybe i should do a search too ha ive using straight braid on everything except my cranking rod which has 14lb mono, and i fish in ultra clear water. am most likely going to do straight floro on my crank rod instead of mono, but with my spinning rods i use for tubes, plastics is straight braid and i think that rod may do better with braid and a floro leader. ah i still have so much to try in fishing lol Quote
Smokinal Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 I absolutely can't stand memory so I use braid on every rig I own. Fluoro leaders when fishing around rock or clear water. The other reason is, I don't have a hookset like David Ortiz so the no stretch helps my hookup ratio. Quote
LMB ANGLER Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 100% braid........ if you want FC get as leader so you get the sensitivity of braid but the invisibility of FC. Quote
Delaware Valley Tackle Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 Some feel that straight fluoro is more sensitive on semi-slack line due to the stiffness and it sounds valid, but I fish braid on 90% of my reels and only on rare occasion use a leader. When I do it's not due to visibility it's so I can break off in snag infested areas. Quote
Brian Needham Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 if you are doing bottom baits flouro is the only way to go. more feel, less line bow than braid. indeed a search will provide more info and reading than you can handle in one sitting, and give you a high level of an education on the topic as it has been discussed many times here.....it is one of the leading debates around here. Quote
Super User Jrob78 Posted October 29, 2013 Super User Posted October 29, 2013 There are a lot of reasons to spool with straight fluoro. Fluoro sinks so it isn't effected by wind. You don't get bows in your line, which helps you stay in better contact with your bait. Bite detection is better on a slack line. Fuoro stretches so you're less likely to tear hooks out. It bowls down to what you prefer though. Fluoro can also be a pain to deal with and you have to respool more often. Quote
Super User tomustang Posted October 29, 2013 Super User Posted October 29, 2013 Braid to Fluro is cheaper than all Fluro, something to leave into consideration Quote
Brian Needham Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 you have to respool more often. I disagree........ I still have some tatsu that was spooled up in Jan still going strong. I only re spool when I can cast to the joining knot in my backing. or did you mean respool more often cause you "never" have to respool braid? Quote
Super User new2BC4bass Posted October 29, 2013 Super User Posted October 29, 2013 Im actually looking forward to hearing responses too... maybe i should do a search too ha ive using straight braid on everything except my cranking rod which has 14lb mono, and i fish in ultra clear water. am most likely going to do straight floro on my crank rod instead of mono, but with my spinning rods i use for tubes, plastics is straight braid and i think that rod may do better with braid and a floro leader. ah i still have so much to try in fishing lol Does your gin clear water have lots of branches to get caught in? Because if not, I would suggest dropping down to 10# fluoro on your cranking rod. Unless you are like me and are fishing in shallow water most of the time. The lighter line will let the lure reach its running depth quicker. 10# is enough to land any bass as long as you aren't trying to haul in half the lake bottom at the same time. It takes a lot of pressure to break 10# line as long as it doesn't have a nick or kink (from backlashing) in it. It is too much for me to break with my bare hand. I wrap it around a stick of wood to keep from cutting my hand. Quote
Super User Jrob78 Posted October 29, 2013 Super User Posted October 29, 2013 I disagree........ I still have some tatsu that was spooled up in Jan still going strong. I only re spool when I can cast to the joining knot in my backing. or did you mean respool more often cause you "never" have to respool braid? Yeah, I just meant braid has a longer usable life span. I've had braid on reels for 2 years before, I wouldn't do that with fluoro. 1 Quote
Brian Needham Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 I think you could do it with flouro........but I cant stay unhung long enough to find out! LOL 2 Quote
fishguy613 Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 Does your gin clear water have lots of branches to get caught in? Because if not, I would suggest dropping down to 10# fluoro on your cranking rod. Unless you are like me and are fishing in shallow water most of the time. The lighter line will let the lure reach its running depth quicker. 10# is enough to land any bass as long as you aren't trying to haul in half the lake bottom at the same time. It takes a lot of pressure to break 10# line as long as it doesn't have a nick or kink (from backlashing) in it. It is too much for me to break with my bare hand. I wrap it around a stick of wood to keep from cutting my hand. I will give 10lb floro a try, might have to wait until spring now though lol Quote
Super User QUAKEnSHAKE Posted October 29, 2013 Super User Posted October 29, 2013 if you are doing bottom baits flouro is the only way to go. more feel, less line bow than braid. indeed a search will provide more info and reading than you can handle in one sitting, and give you a high level of an education on the topic as it has been discussed many times here.....it is one of the leading debates around here. I disagree...... Bottom contact to me is where braid rules in sensitivity dragging jigs or running Ikas along bottom much better feedback on braid. ------------------ Getting unstuck from weeds/snags as well is much easier with braid than full fluoro. Fluoro you have to pull past the stretch first then pull a bit more to free the lure = more effort involved. One of the more noticeable attributes I found going to fluoro. Hook setting power is much better with braid over fluoro at distance. Another thing Ive noticed is less feel of the fight with fluoro than what I get with braid. I feel the fish turn twist dive rise shake much better with braid. Quote
Brian Needham Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 bottom contact = slack line to me and FC is the way here. IMO and other opinions may vary but from everything I have seen and read from much more experienced guy than me, when I am sitting on a ledge in 25 foot or dead sticking a senko, my money is on FC. I battled with the decision to go all braid/FC leader or all FC, and finally decided stay with FC. Quote
Loop_Dad Posted October 29, 2013 Posted October 29, 2013 When I switched over to braid for most of my reels, I didn't like it for bottom baits because it floats so much and makes big bow. I have to change around my fishing tactics around it. However, I really enjoyed the lack of memory. I am now all braid. I also had hi-vis florescent fluorocarbon on the reel that I used to cast weightless plastic in the shallow. I was able to 'see' every little 'tick' on the way down in twilight hours. With braid, even with hi-vis yellow that I have, it is a lot less visible than hi-vis 'florescent' colors. But I think this is not very common complaints as the most of the fluorocarbon used are clear anyhow. Quote
Super User QUAKEnSHAKE Posted October 29, 2013 Super User Posted October 29, 2013 bottom contact = slack line to me and FC is the way here. IMO and other opinions may vary but from everything I have seen and read from much more experienced guy than me, when I am sitting on a ledge in 25 foot or dead sticking a senko, my money is on FC. I battled with the decision to go all braid/FC leader or all FC, and finally decided stay with FC. Ah thats where our definition/technique differ bottom contact for me means constant contact even at idle with lure thus the dragging that I mentioned. The amount of feedback is greater during the drag meaning no slack. Quote
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