Bps Tourney Special Question (Not Pro-Qualifier)

[seekonkBass]

Hello Everyone,

 

I am having rough time getting used to the centrifugal brakes on the BPS Tourney Special.They are either always too much brakes or too little. If I set any of the internal brakes to "on" I lose a ton of casting distance, I if set them to "off" I get very sporadic results, sometime I get great casts with little to no over-run other times it's a hot mess!! I haven't had this issue with magnetic braking systems, so I'm wondering if anyone has any tips or if anyone else has had the same issue? A little background on me. I have used mostly the Pinnacle Platinum Plus (a wally-world acquisition lol) that has magnetic brakes. I find the Pinnacle to be smoother, quieter, and easier to cast. I can't be the only one who has had these results. I would have thought that the BPS would have been a better reel considering that it was $49 for just the reel and the Pinnacle was a rod/reel combo for $59.00, but I am starting to question the BPS's quality. I am conflicted if I should get rid of the BPS and get an Abu Black Max with magnetic brakes or get another Pinnacle maybe a little better than the one I already have. Any thoughts or suggestions would be welcomed and appreciated.

 

Jorge  

[retiredbosn]

If you can wait until the end of February, BPS has their annual spring classic sale, the Pro Qualifier will be on sale for either 79 or 69, if u live close to a BPS store u can trade in your old reel and get a credit, the PQ is the best 100 reel on the market IMO. The tournament special is an entry level reel, and I've never used one. Allot of the guys here say the mettle reels sold by Academy are good. I would definitely suggest that when u buy a reel make sure it has an aluminum frame, quality bearings, just because a reel has allot of bearings it doesn't mean its a good reel. Good luck

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

I agree. The PQ is such a bargain even at full retail I can't see messing with the lesser models. I have an older Tourney that works fine but I stay on top if and it's not heavily used. Whether it's a PQ or something else, I prefer and recommend centrifugal or dual brakes. They're more user friendly imo.

[The Rooster]

You didn't say how many brakes you have set to on or off. How many are there inside of it? Also, do you have the spool tension knob properly tightened / loosened? That's the knob on the handle crank side.

Matching the bait weight to the rod is also a factor here. Won't go well if you have too light weight of a lure on the rod.

[seekonkBass]

You didn't say how many brakes you have set to on or off. How many are there inside of it? Also, do you have the spool tension knob properly tightened / loosened? That's the knob on the handle crank side.

Matching the bait weight to the rod is also a factor here. Won't go well if you have too light weight of a lure on the rod.

I have tried ever possible setting as far as braking goes. I always start by zeroing out the end if cast brake the adjusting the spool tension then setting the end of cast control brake to around 3.5-4 (out of 7). There are 4 brakes inside for then centrifugal brakes. I have tried none to all 4. When all 4 are on, there is no way a birds nest will occur but even an alimghty cast will only yield about 20-25 yards with a 1/4 oz on the line. I have read that the brakes should be used in even numbers so I have tried 4, 2 and none. With 2 I get a bit more distance but the results are varied so one time I'll get a great cast no backlash good distance and the next cast will yield no backlash and very little distance.? It's almost as if the brakes are tighter sometimes than others. Does my description make sense? Sometimes I type quicker than my brain is processing lol

[The Rooster]

What I do....loosen the cast control knob, the one that puts tension on the spool, located on the crank side. Loosen it to where the spool will move side to side. Then tighten it to just where the spool stops moving side to side. This is as loose as the spool tension ever needs to be. Go tighter if this is too loose and backlashes are just constantly happening, but never go looser.

Then I set brakes to help with backlashing. I use more if it's windy outside, and less if distance is greatly reduced when casting, but most of the time I use two brakes, or three on heavier baits where backlashing happens more often from harder casting.

The thing you've been told about using brakes in even numbers is bunk. You can use any number needed, even odd configurations. None, just one only, or two, three, five, and so on. Some people do recommend even settings for balance, but even three fits into that also, in a Y configuration. That's three on, three off, on reels that have six brakes. With 7, that's not possible, but 7 is an odd number anyway so it must be possible to use odd setups or they couldn't make the reel that way. I also saw that this reel has two sets of brakes? Not familiar with that. Mine all have just one set, or are magnetic only. I'd turn one set off completely and use maybe 3 on the other set, with the spool tension set like I described, and either add to that or take away as needed. Start with small casts and add distance as you gain confidence. Start with streamlined baits that don't catch air as bad to get a feel for casting. They cast easier. Things like jerkbaits, crankbaits, or a jig even. A spinnerbait with blades and a skirt will catch air and cause backlashes if you're not experienced at casting them. Go to those after you learn to cast easier baits. If you get massive backlashes with the settings like this, even with lots of brakes on, then tighten the spool tension knob some. Remember, a little here goes a long way. When I ever tighten mine, I just barely move it, and then barely move it again if not enough the first time. 1/4 turn of this knob is WAY too much. I'm talking 1/16, if that.

[The Rooster]

Also, my understanding of this reel from reading the description is that one set of brakes is for the beginning of the cast and one set is for the end. This means they will work differently. I'm assuming that the set for the beginning work by creating resistance by spinning out and riding against a drum inside the reel. The other set would also spin out AWAY from what they normally ride against and release their resistance. This makes sense in my head, and seems for this to work that the second set needs to be on springs. Maybe both sets are on springs. Anyway, at the end of the cast when inertia energy is lost, the first set of brakes would retract by springs or gravity and not ride the drum anymore to slow the spool, but the second set would also retract and then contact their drum and provide further resistance to slow the spool further still. I have no idea if this is right. I have not seen these reels. But it seems this is one possible set up.

My point is, figure out which set is which, and turn off the set that controls the end of the cast. This will make the reel work more like other conventional reels with centrifugal brakes. You can use both sets if needed, but since you should have spool tension applied right, and also use your thumb, having two full sets of brakes also might be overkill.

[seekonkBass]

Rooster, your reply has been the most well thought out and applicable reply I have ever seen on a forum to a question! Thank you for taking the time to post. I am sure this info will help me out. It's a little after 5 AM and I'm getting ready to go to work, but now I can't wait to get home tonight to try this out!! Thanks again