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  • Super User
Posted

So I have a bunch of questions for you lure painters.

What do you use for paint? Createx?

What is the difference between createx and Wicked Colors? can you spray one then go over it with the other? What do you use for a basecoat? If I want a white base do I use an opaque color or do I need a solid?

Can I use an automotive spray clear for a topcoat?

Posted

Createx is the most popular acrylic latex and yes, you can spray it over/under Wicked.  Opaque = Solid.  I use a heavily pigmented white acrylic latex for color basecoating.  My favorite is Superhide White by Polytranspar but most paint companies sell something similar.  There are 3 popular topcoats:  30 minute epoxies like Devcon Two Ton, moisture cured urethanes like Dick Nite S81, and two part catalyzed automotive clear coats.  If you use 2 part auto clearcoat, observe proper safety precautions - the catalyst is poisonous and you DON'T WANT TO BREATHE IT.  Wear a organic solvent rated mask and use adequate ventilation.  Some guys try spray can clearcoats - including some advertised for autos.  They don't work well because they just aren't tough enough for a crankbait.  Lately, some have begun testing UV cured polyester resins and solvent based concrete sealers as clearcoats.  The jury's still out on them.

  • Super User
Posted

Thanks Bob you've been a lot of help!

I have some 2 part fiberglass epoxy resin but I'm pretty sure it's to thick to brush on.

My Dad owns a body shop so I have access to the clear and yea it's nasty stuff you don't need to be breathing!

Can I use the opaque Createx for a basecoat?

I know that Wicked Colors has a reducer but I don't see one for Createx? What do you use for a reducer?

What about glitters? What type of a glitter would I use?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I know that Wicked Colors has a reducer but I don't see one for Createx? What do you use for a reducer?

I take a quart of water and add 1 drop of dish soap. Then usually add anywhere from a drop to a teaspoon depending on color and the amount of paint I'm spraying. Some colors will require more thinning than others (opaque white for instance.)
  • Super User
Posted

I take a quart of water and add 1 drop of dish soap. Then usually add anywhere from a drop to a teaspoon depending on color and the amount of paint I'm spraying. Some colors will require more thinning than others (opaque white for instance.)

The little I've used it I've diluted around 100% does that sound close?

What is a thinner topcoat than devcon?

  • Super User
Posted

Let me clarify that, the Devcon goes on thicker than I like and my jerkbaits are slow sinking.

Posted

I use an airbrush with a .3mm tip and shoot at 15-30 psi, and don't do much thinning.  Createx sells 4011 reducer to be used with their paints but says you can just use water, and that works OK most times.  There are various home brew reducers you can try.  Check out You Tube.  Rather than custom mixing paint, I like to use a mix of airbrush paint from different companies including taxidermy paints like Smith Wildlife.  Taxidermy paint tends to come already reduced.  I also prefer layering transparent (I think the term should be "translucent" vs "transparent" but Createx uses the latter term) paints over one another when looking for lifelike effects.  Most of the basic Createx paints come in both opaque and transparent versions. Spray it lightly for effects, heavier for solid color.  For glitter, I prefer the cheapo glitter suspended in a clear acrylic from a hobby shop - I squirt a little in a shot glass, add water, then paint it on the lure with a brush.  That allows me to put glitter where I want it, in the amount I want, and not on areas I don't want.  But it's larger glitter and will not shoot through an airbrush.  As far as white color base coats, anything white will work - but a heavily pigmented white will do it faster and without multiple coats.  However, if all you're painting is blank plastic lures, the Createx white should do fine.  I paint wood lures and do repaints over existing finishes, where hiding the substrate is at a premium.

 

You're lucky to have access to a pro auto paint shop.  A two part catalyzed auto clear with high solids is an excellent clearcoat.  Other options may drive you crazy until you get their particular procedures down pat.  If I had paint shop access, auto clear would be the ONLY thing I'd use.

Posted

Do you know who sells that stencil?

 

The same guy that makes the video does, its WAY cheaper to make your own if you gotta shop vac and its really easy to make them.

  • Super User
Posted

The same guy that makes the video does, its WAY cheaper to make your own if you gotta shop vac and its really easy to make them.

No, who sells the sheets of the stencil making material?

Posted

I got a roll of FRISKET (stencil making material) from Dixie Art.com.  One roll will last for years.  It's a thin translucent plastic film with a peel-off adhesive backing.  One "trick" I've learned -  after you draw your design on the backing paper, cut out the design with an X-acto knife.  When you're ready to paint, don't peel the backing off and stick it on the lure because the adhesive will tend to pull the paint off the lure's surface when you remove it.  Instead, just hold the stencil on the side of the lure and shoot the design.  Then dry the over-spray on the stencil with a hair dryer, flip it over and it's ready to do the other side of the bait.  Benefits - you can use the stencil again and again on other baits, plus you don't have to draw/cut 2 stencils for each bait.

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