New to throwing Crankbaits

[airborne_angler]

I just got my 5:1 ratio reel in working order and I think I have the crankbait bug. I was throwing one on a different reel and it just plain wore me out. Compared to that other reel this 5:1 is a dream,casts nicely(VERY S-M-O-O-T-H) and the retrieve doesnt wear me out,its like butter with this reel.

Im currently throwing a Bomber/Excalibur Fat Free Guppy Bill Dance Signature edition. Ive also thrown a Fat Free Fingerling and have caught about 7 fish between these 2 baits,nothing small but the strikes are just awesome. Cranking along,humming a tune in my head and then the world just STOPS for a split second when that fish,even a dink, slams that bait... What a rush!!!

So now that ive caught the "bug" im wanting to expand my arsenal of entry level,reasonably priced crankbaits. What are everyone favorite crankbaits within a reasonable price. Im not talking LuckyCraft price range either,im talking about the $2-$6 range.Ive seen the "Blaze" brand crankbaits,anyone use them with success,or is this a brand to stay away from?

Anything else I should know as I venture deeper into the world of throwing crankbaits? Im all ears for tips and pointers.

[KYntucky Warmouth]

IMO the Strike King cranks are the best bang for your buck.

[Nibbles]

IMO the Strike King cranks are the best bang for your buck.

+1

I like the Strike King Series 3 and 4 in Sexy Shad and Chartreuse Sexy Shad. Series 3 dives 6-8 ft, and Series 4 a tad deeper than that.

I too personally don't see the point of paying premium for Lucky Craft cranks when there are much cheaper ones out there that perform just as well.

Their jerkbait Pointers on the other hand, I sometimes contemplate getting, considering that most other branded jerkbaits that suspend well cost about the same anyway.  ;D

I don't work for Yo Zuri, but I really do love some of their stuff. If you ever decide to pay a little more for a good crank, check out their mag minnows and hardcore shad 60s.

[Josh Bassman]

When I buy crankbaits, I just think about burning through a bag of senkos... Crankbaits last a lot longer then senkos, and that makes it easier to buy a $15 lure.

I still stay away from the $50 black dog baits

[Vinny Chase]

I disagree with the others about SK cranks. Personally, i think Normans are the best BANG for your BUCK.

I agree that there is nothing better then that thunk and the fight when they are deep. Just keep exploring new ways and techniques to catching them. You are officially addicted to crankin, welcome to the club!

[Vinny Chase]

IMO the Strike King cranks are the best bang for your buck.

+1

I like the Strike King Series 3 and 4 in Sexy Shad and Chartreuse Sexy Shad. Series 3 dives 6-8 ft, and Series 4 a tad deeper than that.

I too personally don't see the point of paying premium for Lucky Craft cranks when there are much cheaper ones out there that perform just as well.

Their jerkbait Pointers on the other hand, I sometimes contemplate getting, considering that most other branded jerkbaits that suspend well cost about the same anyway. ;D

I don't work for Yo Zuri, but I really do love some of their stuff. If you ever decide to pay a little more for a good crank, check out their mag minnows and hardcore shad 60s.

X-rap in the perch color produces more then any of my pointers.

[Senkoman12]

norman, bomber, bandit, manns, strike king, rapala, all good cranks

[Vinny Chase]

norman, bomber, bandit, manns, strike king, rapala, all good cranks

Best 

[Nibbles]

IMO the Strike King cranks are the best bang for your buck.

+1

I like the Strike King Series 3 and 4 in Sexy Shad and Chartreuse Sexy Shad. Series 3 dives 6-8 ft, and Series 4 a tad deeper than that.

I too personally don't see the point of paying premium for Lucky Craft cranks when there are much cheaper ones out there that perform just as well.

Their jerkbait Pointers on the other hand, I sometimes contemplate getting, considering that most other branded jerkbaits that suspend well cost about the same anyway. ;D

I don't work for Yo Zuri, but I really do love some of their stuff. If you ever decide to pay a little more for a good crank, check out their mag minnows and hardcore shad 60s.

X-rap in the perch color produces more then any of my pointers.

I wouldn't be surprised. Fortunately for me, I just got some pointers for $7 apiece, so I don't feel too much buyer's remorse there.

I don't think there's a lot of perch where I fish though.

[Raul]

I don't think there's a lot of perch where I fish though.

I 've said it before and I 'll say it again, forget about the "match the hatch" nonsense once and for all, your bait doesn 't have to look like __________________ ( place here the name of whatever species you desire ) in order to catch fish, what catches the fish is the action of the bait, not what to your eyes the bait looks like. Realistic and ultrarealistic fisnishes are meant to catch you and not the fish, A good bait design in the hands of a skilled fisherman will catch fish regardless how it 's painted.

Why I say it ? because of experience, bass in my neck of the woods have never seen and will never see these fish: shad, walleye, brown trout, perch, pike, pickerel. Only in very few places like up in the Sierra ( and you can count those places with your fisngers ) bass and rainbow trout can be found in the same body of water, but that 's an exception not the rule, so add rainbow trout to that list of species, however baits painted in those patterns work as well as baits painted to resemble fish that bass can "identify" as food such as tilapia, minnows, shiners, carp & bluegills.

[Grey Wolf]

I don't think there's a lot of perch where I fish though.

I 've said it before and I 'll say it again, forget about the "match the hatch" nonsense once and for all, your bait doesn 't have to look like __________________ ( place here the name of whatever species you desire ) in order to catch fish, what catches the fish is the action of the bait, not what to your eyes the bait looks like. Realistic and ultrarealistic fisnishes are meant to catch you and not the fish, A good bait design in the hands of a skilled fisherman will catch fish regardless how it 's painted.

Why I say it ? because of experience, bass in my neck of the woods have never seen and will never see these fish: shad, walleye, brown trout, perch, pike, pickerel. Only in very few places like up in the Sierra ( and you can count those places with your fisngers ) bass and rainbow trout can be found in the same body of water, but that 's an exception not the rule, so add rainbow trout to that list of species, however baits painted in those patterns work as well as baits painted to resemble fish that bass can "identify" as food such as tilapia, minnows, shiners, carp & bluegills.

100% agree !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Grey Wolf]

norman, bomber, bandit, manns, strike king, rapala, all good cranks

Best

JYHO. Correct ?

[Vinny Chase]

norman, bomber, bandit, manns, strike king, rapala, all good cranks

Best

JYHO. Correct ?

Nope its proven! haha no i'm sure they all catch fish i have just had the best like with the DT's and DD's. Maybe its a confidence thing.

[Bassin_Fin@tic]

norman, bomber, bandit, manns, strike king, rapala, all good cranks

Best

Agreed! Best for the money. It's okay to splurge and get a few cranks in the high price range. The real problem comes in when you need to get multiple colors/diving depths,etc.. One can easily spend $1000 and still not have all the color patterns or essential depths in that color buying high end baits. Then think about the high probability of losing cranks? JMO thats all. It boils down to what you can afford and what you LIKE to use.

[brushhoggin]

i think this would also be a good time for JFrancho to chime in and explain why and how cranks aren't just a chuck and wind bait. what else is there besides the stop and go, fast to slow alternation, or a tweaking to get it to run right or left aiming under mats and such. What is it that's done with cranks that takes such a skilled angler to execute? also, BANDIT!!

[Primus]

I don't think there's a lot of perch where I fish though.

I 've said it before and I 'll say it again, forget about the "match the hatch" nonsense once and for all, your bait doesn 't have to look like __________________ ( place here the name of whatever species you desire ) in order to catch fish, what catches the fish is the action of the bait, not what to your eyes the bait looks like. Realistic and ultrarealistic fisnishes are meant to catch you and not the fish, A good bait design in the hands of a skilled fisherman will catch fish regardless how it 's painted.

Why I say it ? because of experience, bass in my neck of the woods have never seen and will never see these fish: shad, walleye, brown trout, perch, pike, pickerel. Only in very few places like up in the Sierra ( and you can count those places with your fisngers ) bass and rainbow trout can be found in the same body of water, but that 's an exception not the rule, so add rainbow trout to that list of species, however baits painted in those patterns work as well as baits painted to resemble fish that bass can "identify" as food such as tilapia, minnows, shiners, carp & bluegills.

I somewhat disagree, I have a lake where I've done very well on the Bandit 700 Chrome Bluegill color, put a different color of this same bait little to no fish. That said your comment applies in most situations.

Anyways here are a few 5-8$ cranks that I've done well with...

Rapala Shad Rap

Rapala DT 6 & 10

Storm Wiggle Wart

Strike Series 3 & 6XD

Strike King Red Eye Shad

Bandit 700 series

Norman DD 22

Mann's Baby 1 Minus

[Bassin_Fin@tic]

i think this would also be a good time for JFrancho to chime in and explain why and how cranks aren't just a chuck and wind bait. what else is there besides the stop and go, fast to slow alternation, or a tweaking to get it to run right or left aiming under mats and such. What is it that's done with cranks that takes such a skilled angler to execute? also, BANDIT!!

First off location and the ability to identify such. The knowlede to match the different kinds of cranks to the locations,conditions,mood of the fish. The keen ability to interpret sonar and structure. Cranking is also a game of angles. Rod position,line type,the distance of the cast can effect the action and diving angle of the bait. One needs to learn how to play the angles to achieve the proper depth of the bait. Also knowledge of the bait your currently using helps a lot so you know how quick it gets into the "zone" or can stay above the areas that you don't want it to hit.What does it do when you hit rocks or wood? How does it react? Practice is the only way to get good just like anything. Sure anyone can tie on a crank and probably catch a few fish but that don't mean just because they stop it,speed it up,rip it, etc that they can outfish someone like say Rick Clunn

[BlaineFred]

Lipless cranks need to brought into this discussion...

The Strike King Red-Eye shad lures are popular, and I like the SPRO Aruku Shad.

On crankbaits in general, there are some with cheap trebles that need replacing.  For example, the Bass Pro XPS types have terrible trebles.  used them for some time, and kept getting slip-offs.  I put Owner trebles on them, and they work much better.   The point is that don't try to go too cheap on the cranks...there's a reason why they are cheap!

[jbass]

Nothing like making a long cast along a point and have the bait come to an abrupt halt and feel the massive head shake.

[kikstand454]

strike king, norman, bandit and rapala.

all great... great baits under 10 bucks.