A Little Help? I Know Nothing.

[nowicki2005]

first off, I love to fish. I've always fished out of a small 14 foot sea nymph that was my dads and that's what I fished out of my entire life. Now that I'm older, I'm looking to investing in a starter bass boat so to speak. I've been looking at some early to mid 90's Astro boats and I am wondering what people think of those boats. I realize that they no longer make them and replacement parts to the hard to come by, but it seems to be that most people really like them. I don't really know a lot about boats in general and im trying really hard to find myself a good deal. Any advice in what to look for? Advice of brands or certain models to stay away from? I really appreciate any info given.

[Long Mike]

To begin with, what is your budget, and how large are the bodies of water you want to fish?  When we know that information we can begin to help.

[slonezp]

Don't be afraid of not being able to find parts. There are more than enough aftermarket items available. You will want to check the transom and floors for rot and have a qualified mechanic inspect the motor. 

[nowicki2005]

3500 to 4500 is probably my budget. A lot of the lakes are smaller, as most arr in Michigan.

[martintheduck]

Might want to read a post I made about my experience buying a boat... Might help - might not.

 

http://www.bassresource.com/bass-fishing-forums/topic/121224-real-ticked-off-buying-used-but-finally-succeed/

[BKeith]

Other than unique parts like windshields, dash panels an that kind of stuff, there is nothing to worry about as far as parts.  Those unique type parts are not going to be available on most older models of manufacture's still in business today.

 

As for the Astro boat, it's not that popular of a model so you should be able to get a good deal on it, but as with any used boat, there are some critical areas you need to ensure are solid and sound, or you will have bought a useless piece of junk.  The transom is critical and very subject to being rotten if all the holes made in it were properly sealed.  Not knowing anything about boats, checking one out may be a challenge for you.  Getting one checked by a dealer is costly and most will not do it without it getting in line, meaning it could be day's/weeks before they look at it. 

 

The two checks I make are simple.  Most engine mounting bolts have 3/4" heads so take tools.  My first test is to hold the head of the bolt with one wrench and then on then try to tighten the nut with another or ratchet and socket.  If the nut starts pulling down into the transom without using an extreme amount of force, and does so for a couple of turns, don't walk away from, RUN like h**l, it's junk. 

 

My second test is to trim the motor all the way up, the stand on the mid section/lower unit and bounce up and down, the transom should not have any flex/movement in it.  The boat might be bouncing on the trailer, but the motor had better not be moving on the transom.  If it does, again. RUN.

 

Next, check the floor.  Get over inside the boat and while walking around, kinda bounce up and down. It should be firm and solid, If not, you don't really want it.

 

After these two check out ok, check the steering cables.  Trim the motor all the way down and turn the steering wheel full travel both ways.  It should turn fairly easy.  If it takes much effort at all, the steering cables are bad or going bad.  That's not a deal killer but understand, if a repair shop has to replace them, it probably going to cost you over $600 to replace them.

 

Checking the motor is going to have to be by someone that knows boat motors.  There are several things you should check but with limited knowledge, it's not something you are going to be able to do and not knowing them, even doing a test drive, you might not recognize a serious problem it has.

 

Replacing carpet is not a major deal but having to recover seats will be fairly expensive, so if they are in bad shape, check some prices before making the final deal.

[nowicki2005]

First, I found this site a couole of days ago and have been really impressed with the amount of active and helpful people on these forums.

Second, thanks for some help on some basic transom checks. This is something that will take quite a bit of homework....

What about roughly a 1995 stratos 268? Does anyone have experience with these.

[BKeith]

I've had several Stratos, Still have an old 285 Pro and a 169V that stays at the lake. Generally Good boats, but again, they have to be checked out. It only takes a few years for one improperly sealed bolt or screw to let the wood in the transom get saturate and rot.

I'm not sure when they changed from the open cell flotation foam to the closed cell but prior to that year, the boats with open cell foam did not like being left uncovered and outside. This let water soak into the open cell foam and could add a few hundred pounds of weight, plus rot the stringers in the hull. I know the late 80's - early 90's still had the open cell foam. When it gets saturated, it makes the boat very slow and sluggish, and made it almost impossible to lift the bow on full plane.

Also not sure when they went to composites. It will have a small sticker on the rear sides saying all composite. Don't confuse that with the one that says Hand Laid Hull.

Regardless, it still has to be completely check out.

[MichiganFishing1997]

3500 to 4500 is probably my budget. A lot of the lakes are smaller, as most arr in Michigan.

If this helps at all, my brother takes his 14 ft mirrocraft deep fisherman on Lake St. Clair and I take my 16ft mirrocraft deep fisherman out on that same lake. Thats a fairly large body of water, and if your smart about the weather and hownto drive a boat they do just fine. Both have 25's on them.